Trent are we talking to use the Getrag tranny? Because with the S50 I think it was just two reinforced E30 mounts.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
The comprehensive DOHC engine swap thread.
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
What kind of diffs are you guys putting in? "the manual" says to use a 3.25 for this swap. This sounds nice, but it only takes you to 60 in 2nd. I'd like to go a bit through 60 in 2nd, which would mean a 3.15, unfortunately thats kindof an expensive diff, which takes me to a 2.93... Its cheap, takes me to 66 in 2nd. I'm worried about 3rd & 4th acceleration with that diff though... Any thoughts?
Addis
Doing something M50 related? -> http://www.addissimo.com
On Myspace? ->http://groups.myspace.com/r3vlimited
BF2142 SN = BillyGoose
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ryan Stewartnoice!
grapedrink. Why are you installing the S52 tranny? Its heavier and requires the use of the M3 driveshaft.
If possible either use an M20 setup or the M50 driveshaft to save a good deal of weight on those peices and you could use your old shaft and sell the M3 one.
Unless you are planning on going farther. I stuck with the S50 tranny for my S50 because I intend on doing a camswap NEXT summer.
Right now i have a 92 325i that used to be my daily until things got to where i didn't want to fix them anymore. It has the M2 non vanos, 8.5lb flywheel, M5 clutch, 99 MZ3 trans, Some E36 driveshaft (forget), 3.91 diff.
The car this setup is going to be installed in is an 86 es that used to be an auto. I will find out more info in the next cupple of days about what diff it actually has but it eather has the stock auto es diff or a manual 85 318 diff. I would also like some info on what diff would be the best setup since my E36 maxed out at 128mph ( at 7k rpms). First gear was almost useless unless i felt like going rock climbing. It seems like the S52 trans 1st and 2nd gears are pretty short where the Get. 260 has some taller low gears!!. Just thought i would point that out.
I will chime back in in a cupple of days. Got to get some sleep and then pick up my new car.
Lucas
Originally posted by DaveCNWelcome.
Your car is a piece of shit.
Most of them here are, too.
Comment
-
Wish mine would go over 110!!! I was able to pull 110 ish with the wornout m10, now with over 100 extra ponies I can still only do 110mph, that damn 3.73 is just to low, but 2nd, 3rd and 5th kick ass, on acceleration anyway.
BTW I let my dad drive it yesterday, and now I feel so sorry for any apssenger on board, I was so freaken nervous, could have been fear he was gonna break something though.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ryan Stewartgrapedrink I was under the understanding that the receiver on the tranny is larger for the beefier guibo on the S52 tranny.
Shit kyle, you cant go over 110? My eta could do better than that. :P
I had a spacer made up and used a E36 drifeshaftGunni
@ Prodrive / Aston Martin Racing
Comment
-
I believe it is the same part number for all of the late model guibos??? So at worst case i would need to get a small guibo eh? I am going to use the transmission because i don't want to buy another one but tell me what i am going to run into? Rubbing on the selector rod?
Originally posted by DaveCNWelcome.
Your car is a piece of shit.
Most of them here are, too.
Comment
-
Originally posted by grapedrinkI believe it is the same part number for all of the late model guibos??? So at worst case i would need to get a small guibo eh? I am going to use the transmission because i don't want to buy another one but tell me what i am going to run into? Rubbing on the selector rod?
make sure the selector rod arches upward, i had mine upside down and it rubbed the guiibo in first, fourth and fifth.
I have a picture from Zionsville's ORCA I could send you that has all the parts they recommend, or youcould just call them and buy a "kit", be sure to tell them what all you are using of course.
Comment
-
If you could send me that pic it would be great.
behmerm3@yahoo.com
Originally posted by kylebes1Originally posted by grapedrinkI believe it is the same part number for all of the late model guibos??? So at worst case i would need to get a small guibo eh? I am going to use the transmission because i don't want to buy another one but tell me what i am going to run into? Rubbing on the selector rod?
make sure the selector rod arches upward, i had mine upside down and it rubbed the guiibo in first, fourth and fifth.
I have a picture from Zionsville's ORCA I could send you that has all the parts they recommend, or youcould just call them and buy a "kit", be sure to tell them what all you are using of course.
Originally posted by DaveCNWelcome.
Your car is a piece of shit.
Most of them here are, too.
Comment
-
Hey everyone, back to the Thread subject.
I replaced my battery about 7 months ago, never had any trouble since then. That is up to yesterday, it went dead on its own. MY concern is the ground from the engine to the car body, at first i only had one, the only one my m10 had as well. Now I added a 8 gauge wire from the negative post to the passengerside mount bracket.
Would it be ok to put a 10 guage from the ground point for the coils straight to the megative post? I think I am gonna come up witha good ground block to clean it all up.
Need input though.
Comment
-
I used a foot long piece of 4 gauge that goes from the drivers side engine mount to the grounding point on the frame/unibody rail.
I doubt this has anything to do with your battery going dead. If the ground between the motor and the chassis isnt good enough, you will have issues with the starter.Originally posted by Simon SWhen a dream is a dream for too long - it becomes a fantasy..
Comment
-
Projected costs...
I'm very interested in doing an m50 swap. I think I want to stick to an m50 for cost reasons. That's the only thing holding me back right now, I have no idea what this will cost. I know basically what it involves, as far as work, and so far I'm not to intimidated. I jsut got done doing a five speed swap, with $1000 worth of new parts, so I want to keep my m20 transmission.
With just a basic m50 swap, going as cheap as possible, what is the typical cost?
And what do I need?
Engine, wiring harness, ecu, the brake booster/master cylinder that works, custom exhaust, what else?
I am on a budget and am wondering if it's possible to do this for under $1000 + stuff listed above. I have an extremely cheap, but good, exhaust shop nearby that would probably do the exhaust for under $200 as well.
Later I will get into m3 cams, chip, etc... If I feel the need
What engine should I look for? Should I go with a vanos engine, is it worth the extra $$$?
Anything else I should know? I just read all 11 of these pages, I'm pretty informed now!
Justin
Comment
Comment