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I have a couple of hoses that I have no clue where they go. According to this:
they are going to the thermostat.
I'm talking about hoses 13 & 14.
I dont quite understand how they would attach to the thermostat like that... It could be that I just cant see/feel because of wierd angles... but I really dont see anything that looks remotly similar to what I need to attach the other end of the hoses to.
One is attached at the front of the head and the other on the bottom of the throttle body like the diagram shoes. Any suggestions?
Thanks
-Addis
The part #10 is mounted in the early E36 airboxes, you dont need it.
If I remember correctly, you can take hose 14 and modify it to go from the throttle body to the cylinder head.
Joe Funk -- Portland Oregon
That Guy.
03 X5. 3 liter obviously.
The part #10 is mounted in the early E36 airboxes, you dont need it.
If I remember correctly, you can take hose 14 and modify it to go from the throttle body to the cylinder head.
I just went to home depot and got a barb to connect the spider hose to the hose coming off the head, then took one of the old hoses and connected the two barbs on the bottom of the tb together... (a la 325z).
Okay... thankyou again 325projectz... you just saved me $180. I just attached the pump to the battery and it works. The problem is in the wiring then, but my harness is good so I dont know whats up. I checked the fuel relay and its in tact, I also jumped 87-30 and still a no go... I'm assuming that means the only thing left is to re wire the fuel pump? Whats all is involved in that? Are there any tricks?
Well, good news. The car runs! One problem though. I get a CEL for my MAF and maybe once every 15 seconds the car will cut out for a split second and than go back to normal. The CEL goes off for that second too, but nothing else. Is there a test procedure for the e36 MAF?
I've got the euro hfm on mine. Tried 10,2 and 3 o'clock. I definately could tell a difference in the three. Best throttle response and smoothest @ 3, some surging when cold @ 10, and a small loss in low end response and roughness @ 2. I have mine set at 3 after spending a couple hours experimenting.
Your results may vary.
Ed
1988 E30/S50...now with S52; Track
1994 Miata R; ES Solo2
1998 Lexus LX470; Wife (Slee'd anyway)
2002 BMW 530i; A+ Commuter
2002 BMW 325iT; Sport/Premium 5-speed
2011 21' EconoTrailer
Well I messed with the MAF today a little and it seems to work best at 10.
I'm experiencing some "cut out" near WOT though. All the CEL throws me is a MAF code. Is it possible this is causing cut-out?
At least some progress is being made :-) How is the afm secured? If it isn't - try zip tie'ing it to a bracket to see if it makes a difference. It might be getting banged around at WOT
ITEM #1: anyone figure out the oil level sensor with the e30m50? ive heard the e34 oil level sonsor runs a different resistance and will trip the active check control panel. anyways, i couldnt get the e34 sender to work properly. should i just ground out the pin#10 (blu/wht on e30 harness) or should i just wire up the e30 sender and zip tie it upside down in the engine bay. i hate to sound like a hack, but ive had mine for over a year and i still dont have it functioning correctly.
ITEM #2: i cannot reset my service indicator lights. i plug in the reset tool, but the tool is not getting power. lights wont reset. should pin #16 (wht/blk e30 harness) be hooked up to ???? needless to say, its very annoying.
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I had never heard about this either. I'm definitely fixing it as soon as i figure what i fried when my wiring harness shorted out and vaporized a few power wires. :evil:
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