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    Just an FYI as I searched this whole thread and a bunch of others about tapping the head for the temp sensor and couldn't find the size to tap.
    The size you need is M14X1.5 and we drilled the head with a 29/64" drill bit.
    Seemed to work out real well
    Dale
    1991 E30 Touring

    Comment


      cant you just use an m20 sensor? I just screwed mine in, or are s50, s52 different?


      Please leave feedback below, thanks

      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

      Comment


        Originally posted by Matt-B View Post
        cant you just use an m20 sensor? I just screwed mine in, or are s50, s52 different?
        OBD2 motors do not have that hole.
        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

        Comment


          Originally posted by Matt-B View Post
          cant you just use an m20 sensor? I just screwed mine in, or are s50, s52 different?
          I did use the M20 sensor there just weren't anymore holes to fit in.
          Dale
          1991 E30 Touring

          Comment


            Off topic from Jandersons post but I wanted to double check about motor mounts, is this correct? http://www.autopartsway.ca/PartList..../pagenum1/tabS

            '87 535i mounts. Thanks.
            r3vlimited Lanyard Group Buy!!!

            Comment


              Something somewhere is killing my battery. First did it to my Optima, then to another known good battery, after sitting for about a week. Got in the car just a little while ago to drive it for the first time, and nothing when I turned the key. Not a sound, no lights, absolutely nothing. Something is putting a serious drain on the electrical system and killing batteries dead. Very strange indeed.

              Comment


                Originally posted by Janderson View Post
                Something somewhere is killing my battery. First did it to my Optima, then to another known good battery, after sitting for about a week. Got in the car just a little while ago to drive it for the first time, and nothing when I turned the key. Not a sound, no lights, absolutely nothing. Something is putting a serious drain on the electrical system and killing batteries dead. Very strange indeed.
                Best way to isolate what's doing it would be to hook up a multimeter set to amps in series with the positive terminal of the battery i.e. battery + to + lead of DMM, - lead of DMM to positive battery lead and have a friend watch as you pull fuses one by one until the current draw disappears.

                '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

                Comment


                  Yep, that's what we're going to do, I just don't have my own, have to wait until Andrew can come over with his.

                  This is also kind of good news tho, means my Optima might be just fine afterall.
                  Last edited by Jand3rson; 06-12-2011, 04:43 PM.

                  Comment


                    Found the draw, fuse 21 - interior lighting. Kinda strange, since none of the dome lights or anything were on. Pulled the fuse, no more draw. But with that fuse pulled and the key on, all of the dome and dash lights come on. Now just need to figure out why that circuit isn't shutting off.
                    Last edited by Jand3rson; 06-14-2011, 09:43 AM.

                    Comment


                      What is it? Will it blend?

                      Anybody know what this connector is for? It's in the engine bay and runs into the fusebox but not to any fuses. Wire colors are blue & brown/red into the box where there is a connector. After the connector it leads straight into the interior. Car is a 85 325e which I have the etm for but I haven't been able to figure it out yet. Thanks in advance.

                      Comment


                        I'm doing a 94' m50 into my 90' e30 this summer. I have a pretty decent idea of the parts I am going to need. One thing I am struggling with is the brake booster. I know there is extensive discussion on the booster subject, but I'm tired of looking... People use the 320i or 325ix booster with mods to the shafts and whatnot. I read somewhere that you can use a 944 booster. Is that possible? If so what mods need to be done to the shaft?
                        Now-> black '90 E30 spending too much time on jackstands..

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by stender_e30 View Post
                          I'm doing a 94' m50 into my 90' e30 this summer. I have a pretty decent idea of the parts I am going to need. One thing I am struggling with is the brake booster. I know there is extensive discussion on the booster subject, but I'm tired of looking... People use the 320i or 325ix booster with mods to the shafts and whatnot. I read somewhere that you can use a 944 booster. Is that possible? If so what mods need to be done to the shaft?
                          IIRC there are two variations of the 944, one is 10mm and other 12mm. either one just needs to be rethreaded

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by stender_e30 View Post
                            I'm doing a 94' m50 into my 90' e30 this summer. I have a pretty decent idea of the parts I am going to need. One thing I am struggling with is the brake booster. I know there is extensive discussion on the booster subject, but I'm tired of looking... People use the 320i or 325ix booster with mods to the shafts and whatnot. I read somewhere that you can use a 944 booster. Is that possible? If so what mods need to be done to the shaft?
                            There is an ATE booster and a Girling booster, make sure to get the ATE

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by bzboardz View Post
                              IIRC there are two variations of the 944, one is 10mm and other 12mm. either one just needs to be rethreaded
                              This, but the pushrod on my 944 booster was kind of strange, we just cut it off and welded a bolt with the correct thread pitch to the end of the pushrod. Much easier than cutting new threads.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Janderson View Post
                                Found the draw, fuse 21 - interior lighting. Kinda strange, since none of the dome lights or anything were on. Pulled the fuse, no more draw. But with that fuse pulled and the key on, all of the dome and dash lights come on. Now just need to figure out why that circuit isn't shutting off.
                                Are you saying that everything functions as normal with the fuse out? I've been dealing with a very similar slow draw since completing my swap. I've been disconnecting the battery to avoid problems during extended parked periods.
                                S50'd

                                Originally posted by TDE30
                                What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?
                                Originally posted by slammin.e28
                                I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.

                                Comment

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