The Infamous No Fuel - No Spark
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Check the pinouts of your adapter. Everybody makes mistakes.
I checked mine at least 5 times before I finally convinced myself its good. And by checked, I mean went through the schematics, made the conversion chart from scratch, then checked it against my harness adapter, then verified continuity across the adapter. And I did this AFTER proving (via DME functionality) that my adapter is good.
If it's getting no spark and no fuel, that's the FIRST thing I'd start with...Comment
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I wired up Robert's adapter for him, and i went over it all many, many times. the one test I had Robert do last night showed that the main relay is turning on, but not the fuel pump relay, as it appears to be not getting a ground signal from the ecu. So I had him jumper the fuel pump relay, and his pumps would not run, so I had him start at the fuel pump fuse and work his way backwards trying to figure out why his pump wouldn't run. Before jumpering the relay he said he had power at pin 30 on the fuel pump relay which he did, so assuming that he properly jumpered from pins 30 to 87. I had him check for 12 volts at the fuel pump fuse, nothing, worked our way back to the e36 side of the engine harness(completely eliminating the harness adapter) and he still had no 12 volt. So judging from that if he was actually testing everything correctly, then there is some sort of problem on the engine harness side itself.
I used the factory e36 92 ETM and have been cross reference it as I've had robert trouble shoot everything. These are other charts I cross referenced to just to tripple check.
Robert's adapter is wired up as so E36 x20 side=e30 c101 side
x=2 Oil level static(not hooked up yet)
x=10 Oil level dynamic(not hooked up yet)
7=pin #2 e30 c104 plug(green wire) OBC imobilization
8=12 Check engine light
12=4 Engine coolant temp
13=13 Fuel pump relay
14=14 vehicle speed output
15=18 (unloader relay)
17=16 diagnostic connector
18=18 starter
19=11 S.I. reset
20=pin #1 e30 c104 plug (black wire) Engine tach
21=7
22=6
23=5
24=pin #3 e30 c104 plug(white wire) fuel econ gauge
25=1Last edited by rs4pro3; 09-29-2008, 07:45 AM.85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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also Robert I'd verify on the DME connector that you have all the following power and grounds(you can check grounds, by using the negative side of your test light on the pin #, and then hook the positive to a known working positive)
Power
pin #
26=constant 12volt from battery
54=switched 12 volt from main relay
56=switched 12volt from ignition switch(comes threw pin 21 on the e36 engine harness x20 plug)
Ground
pin #
55
6
34Last edited by rs4pro3; 09-29-2008, 07:58 AM.85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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As late as it was I wouldn't be surprised if I wasn't testing something correctly.
I never was any good with electrical troubleshooting and I'm sure my fatigue and lacl of proper lighting last night didn't help.
I will try to hammer on it this afternoon when I get home from work today but I'm already tempted to PAY someone to get this bastard running. My brain is fried.Comment
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also Robert I'd verify on the DME connector that you have all the following power and grounds(you can check grounds, by using the negative side of your test light on the pin #, and then hook the positive to a known working positive)
Power
pin #
26=constant 12volt from battery
54=switched 12 volt from main relay
56=switched 12volt from ignition switch(comes threw pin 21 on the e36 engine harness x20 plug)
Ground
pin #
55
6
34
Thanks for that info, I'm going to check all that on mine as well.Comment
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well sounds like we have it narrowed down to the fuel pumps not turning on. We verified all power and grounds and they all checked out. I had robert jump the relay to make the pumps run, but his battery was too dead to crank the car. So hopefully once his battery is charged up we'll be able to figure out what is up. But right now it's starting to sound like the ecu is bad and is not grounding the fuel pump relay to kick the pumps on.85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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