M54 Madness, the remix

[hoveringuy]

It runs! Most of my other swaps have been install motor, connect fuel lines, some electrical connection and Start!

This one has been a little more troublesome. After replacing the starter it would still only run for a second before quitting. Finally got it idling after adjusting timing, dwell and holding the TB open a tiny bit.

It sounds great through open headers! More importantly, no ominous grinding sounds, metallic interference or anything like that.

Now installing cooling system, exhaust and driveline, as well as front suspension.

[mike25]

It runs! Most of my other swaps have been install motor, connect fuel lines, some electrical connection and Start!

This one has been a little more troublesome. After replacing the starter it would still only run for a second before quitting. Finally got it idling after adjusting timing, dwell and holding the TB open a tiny bit.

It sounds great through open headers! More importantly, no ominous grinding sounds, metallic interference or anything like that.

Now installing cooling system, exhaust and driveline, as well as front suspension.

Is your idle valve working? - If you have to open the throttle maybe it is not?

Really looking forward to see the dyno of this set up, when you have it set up as you want it.

[hoveringuy]

Is your idle valve working? - If you have to open the throttle maybe it is not?

Really looking forward to see the dyno of this set up, when you have it set up as you want it.

You win the prize. The ICV was stuck. I swapped it with the one from the other motor and it idles perfectly.

Verified timing. dead-nuts on.

My favorite features so far is that the oil pan is gloriously tucked in behind the subframe, and the exhaust fits perfectly. I sent Tyler a set of generic Raceland headers and asked him to rework the ends to fit the subframe. The result is brilliant. Pictures to follow...

I have everything connected and just need to bleed the clutch. First (short) drive should be today.

Question: Is there a solution to the EV6 injectors leaking? I had one pop out enough while warming up the motor to spray a lot of gas on the motor. I swapped the stock M50 ones back in for now. The upper O-ring on my 24# injectors look slightly lower in the fuel rail bore than the stock ones. Do I need extra spacers in the manifold?

[TheAxiom]

You win the prize. The ICV was stuck. I swapped it with the one from the other motor and it idles perfectly.

Verified timing. dead-nuts on.

My favorite features so far is that the oil pan is gloriously tucked in behind the subframe, and the exhaust fits perfectly. I sent Tyler a set of generic Raceland headers and asked him to rework the ends to fit the subframe. The result is brilliant. Pictures to follow...

I have everything connected and just need to bleed the clutch. First (short) drive should be today.

Question: Is there a solution to the EV6 injectors leaking? I had one pop out enough while warming up the motor to spray a lot of gas on the motor. I swapped the stock M50 ones back in for now. The upper O-ring on my 24# injectors look slightly lower in the fuel rail bore than the stock ones. Do I need extra spacers in the manifold?

Y pipe is too close to the manifold....

[e30polak]

Y pipe is too close to the manifold....

Agreed, will hurt low end torque.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Question: Is there a solution to the EV6 injectors leaking? I had one pop out enough while warming up the motor to spray a lot of gas on the motor. I swapped the stock M50 ones back in for now. The upper O-ring on my 24# injectors look slightly lower in the fuel rail bore than the stock ones. Do I need extra spacers in the manifold?

I'm guessing you can't use the normal clips that hold the injectors to the fuel rail?

Check out this thread, post 578 and 583. Looks like he has the same issue (not being able to use the clips) so he made some spacers to hold the injectors in place.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1990662-my-build-thread-e30-with-a-9-inch/page24

[hoveringuy]

Some injectors have the groove for the fuel rail clip, some don't. There's nothing that the injector seats in when it goes into the M50 manifold bore, it can go down 6 or more mm, enough that if it works its way out of the fuel rail it will spray fuel until you BBQ the car.

It looks like what he did is print some collars that give the injectors something to seat against, so they are squeezed between the fuel rail and the manifold.

Out of all the people that have switched injectors I can't possibly the only one that's noticed this? Is everyone else just using injectors without clips??

[hoveringuy]

I characterized the flow on my -715 24# injectors and got some nice data. Nicely linear.

[hoveringuy]

I've got it together enough that I drove on an errand into Seattle.

It's lost some low-end grunt, but pulls like a raped-ape higher. Idle is incredibly smooth. No oil leaks. Zero (so far).

My one big complaint is that it's WAY louder than before. I don't know if it's the Schrick cams or the Raceland headers, but the cabin drones bad. I may switch back to OBD2 headers. I was always happy with those.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Did you figure out the injector spacers? Out of curiosity I googled it and it seems like someguy just 3d printed what is readily available to solve what seems like a pretty common issue.

Also thanks for the euro headers :D they should be arriving today and I am extremely excited. Been trying to get my hands on a set for years but couldn't justify paying more for shipping overseas than for the headers themselves

[TheAxiom]

Bump?

[hoveringuy]

As far as the injectors, I ended-up using a dremel to cut a groove in the appropriate place and it seems to be holding fine (although it still makes me a little nervous...).

I was hoping that my update would be a dyno plot; I've been daily driving it for the last week after making it to the Picnic. I'm trying to do a group dyno on the 16th.

Impression so far is that it pulls hard.

I also miss the S50b32 headers. Tyler did an amazing job getting Racelands to fit like a glove, but they're loud and droney. I have OBD2 headers and mids to make it more civilized.

[TheAxiom]

As far as the injectors, I ended-up using a dremel to cut a groove in the appropriate place and it seems to be holding fine (although it still makes me a little nervous...).

I was hoping that my update would be a dyno plot; I've been daily driving it for the last week after making it to the Picnic. I'm trying to do a group dyno on the 16th.

Impression so far is that it pulls hard.

I also miss the S50b32 headers. Tyler did an amazing job getting Racelands to fit like a glove, but they're loud and droney. I have OBD2 headers and mids to make it more civilized.

I doubt they make any more power than your Euro headers. The collector location just kills the low/mid range power.

[mike25]

I've got it together enough that I drove on an errand into Seattle.

It's lost some low-end grunt, but pulls like a raped-ape higher. Idle is incredibly smooth. No oil leaks. Zero (so far).

My one big complaint is that it's WAY louder than before. I don't know if it's the Schrick cams or the Raceland headers, but the cabin drones bad. I may switch back to OBD2 headers. I was always happy with those.

Steve
Have you read this article? :http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/e46m3exhaust.pdf

- it suggests resonance is a function of tail pipe length compared to the muffler box length. You could experiment with sleeves on your tail pipe to see if it improves the resonance?

Mike

[ForcedFirebird]

As far as the injectors, I ended-up using a dremel to cut a groove in the appropriate place and it seems to be holding fine (although it still makes me a little nervous...).

Don't be. I have been doing this for years on turbo m20 builds. I use a fence in the band saw to make the grooves all the same height. There's a metal tube inside, where the filters are inserted, so cutting the plastic is non structural.