N52 engine mounting (Z4 arms)

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  • Striker01
    Grease Monkey
    • Jul 2011
    • 318

    #31
    Originally posted by hoveringuy

    Maybe the upside-down hydraulic mount hack? (forgot who invented it...)

    It moves the engine back 1/2" or so as well.

    Which mounts are you referring to?

    Comment

    • adam.nonis
      Mod Crazy
      • Apr 2017
      • 755

      #32
      Originally posted by blums_work
      Hi all,

      I have been searching for the AKG Motorsport poly mounts, but they seem out of stock and on backorder everywhere.
      Are there any alternatives? I would rather not use the aluminium version of the AKG mounts.
      I'm running the Garagistic 24V swap mounts. Stiffer than I wanted, but they're fine for now. Doesn't seem too difficult to swap later.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

      Comment

      • Striker01
        Grease Monkey
        • Jul 2011
        • 318

        #33
        I ordered e46 engine and transmission mounts. I forgot about that Castro trick until Steve reminded me of that video. The AKG work fine but something a little softer will be nice, especially if it moves the engine back a bit, my coolant crossover pipe rubs on the radiator. Just wonder if I'll have to do any adjusting on the exhaust I just finished.

        Comment

        • hoveringuy
          R3VLimited
          • Dec 2005
          • 2675

          #34
          Originally posted by Striker01
          I ordered e46 engine and transmission mounts. I forgot about that Castro trick until Steve reminded me of that video. The AKG work fine but something a little softer will be nice, especially if it moves the engine back a bit, my coolant crossover pipe rubs on the radiator. Just wonder if I'll have to do any adjusting on the exhaust I just finished.
          I originally had the hydraulic mounts before we knew any better and had fabbed a custom subframe to fit them (they're too wide at the bottom and will hit the frame rail if you try to mount them with the fat side down...). I will say that they were buttery smooth!
          The other issue I had with them being "fat side-down" was that they made access to the steering rack hose fittings tight, so I have high hopes that the "Castro hack" would solve both of those issues.

          Comment

          • Striker01
            Grease Monkey
            • Jul 2011
            • 318

            #35
            Originally posted by hoveringuy

            I originally had the hydraulic mounts before we knew any better and had fabbed a custom subframe to fit them (they're too wide at the bottom and will hit the frame rail if you try to mount them with the fat side down...). I will say that they were buttery smooth!
            The other issue I had with them being "fat side-down" was that they made access to the steering rack hose fittings tight, so I have high hopes that the "Castro hack" would solve both of those issues.
            Steering rack hoses won't be an issue for sure now. LOL

            Comment

            • R3vTechnic
              Noobie
              • Jul 2025
              • 1

              #36
              It is a lot easier to make custom mounts than to modify the mount arms. I have not switched to N52 yet (hopefully start swapping this fall) but have been running these DIY motor mounts with an M52.

              These mounts were designed with flexibility, adjustability, and prototyping in mind. Using a combination of 3D printing and cast urethane, I 3d print them first to allow for precise fitment and testing before final casting.

              Key Features:
              • Shared Plate Design – Top and bottom plates are interchangeable from left to right, simplifying production and reducing cost, all metal plates can be ordered from Send Cut Send.
              • Interlocking Internals - Internal structure fully interlocks with each-other, catastrophic failure / separation should be none to very low.
              • 3D Printed Test Fittings – Initial prototypes are printed with a threaded M10 insert hole, allowing a stud to be screwed in for test fitment.
              • Precise Positioning – Mounts can be fine-tuned during the test-fit stage, ensuring the engine sits exactly where desired.
              • Urethane Casting – Final mounts made from polyurethane, I used SRC Flex-It 70 (70A hardness), cured in a pressure pot to eliminate bubbles.
              • Controlled NVH Tuning – The 70A mounts are actually pretty stiff, voids can be intentionally designed into the mold to soften the mounts and reduce noise, vibration, and harshness.
              • Engine Position Adjustability – Mounts allow slight (about 15mm) forward/aft engine movement to suit different setups.
              • Future Material Options – Other casting compounds may offer longer working time or better vibration control compared to SRC Flex-It 70 (note CAD below is wrong saying 80A).
              • I have been running a set of these on my M52 for about 2 years with no problems although I do not get to drive my E30 as much these days, they are on the stiffer side.
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • hoveringuy
                R3VLimited
                • Dec 2005
                • 2675

                #37
                Originally posted by R3vTechnic
                It is a lot easier to make custom mounts than to modify the mount arms. I have not switched to N52 yet (hopefully start swapping this fall) but have been running these DIY motor mounts with an M52.[/LIST]
                I love the interlocking design of the AKG mounts, this seems to mirror that.

                You could also offset these to easily move the motor back another 10mm (there's room!) or use female threads so at least one side has bolts instead of studs.

                Comment

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