My N52B30 + GS6-17BG

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  • hoveringuy
    replied
    Originally posted by CarlKB
    Hey guys - looking for some advice on fuel system. I'm running the same set up as you Caelanng (although mine will be RHD), so hope you don't mind me adding in here. Have put the attached together. Does this look right or am I barking up the wrong tree? Once I've got the physical diagram sorted I'll move on to how it'll run electrically
    That is 100 percent correct.

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  • calvino
    replied
    This seems like an awesome project, curious to see how it progresses. I did not expect the engine to bolt in so easily. Subbed for updates.

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  • CarlKB
    replied
    Hey guys - looking for some advice on fuel system. I'm running the same set up as you Caelanng (although mine will be RHD), so hope you don't mind me adding in here. Have put the attached together. Does this look right or am I barking up the wrong tree? Once I've got the physical diagram sorted I'll move on to how it'll run electrically

    Leave a comment:


  • caelanng
    replied
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    Mid section exhaust 99% done

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  • caelanng
    replied
    Originally posted by benz-tech
    Nice looking build! I’m curious if it seems like there is a good chunk of metal that could be removed from the backside of that smf. Also curious about what booster you think will work with the N54 im. I have the e90 in my donor car. I’ll need to call the smog referee to see if they’ll accept the n54 or if I need to do whatever it takes to fit the stock n52
    I'm going to try stock booster, doesn't seem that hard to use I'm just going to run a vacuum line from the pump to the booster and a T to the intake manifold. If you're in Cali it's almost impossible to get these cars BARed, pretty sure someone at least attempted with an N51 but the SULEV stuff needed is absurd. You should be able to fit the stock headers although I never tried, but I'm personally deleting all the emissions garbage because it overcomplicates the swap.

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  • benz-tech
    replied
    Nice looking build! I’m curious if it seems like there is a good chunk of metal that could be removed from the backside of that smf. Also curious about what booster you think will work with the N54 im. I have the e90 in my donor car. I’ll need to call the smog referee to see if they’ll accept the n54 or if I need to do whatever it takes to fit the stock n52

    Leave a comment:


  • caelanng
    replied
    Originally posted by hoveringuy
    Nice work! I love that the pan CAD is making this do-able.

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    Makes it super easy! Don't have to spent a month designing it hahaha.

    Here's my modified Bull Boost headers to clear the LCAB.

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  • hoveringuy
    replied
    Nice work! I love that the pan CAD is making this do-able.

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  • caelanng
    replied
    Car's finally on the ground again, but going straight back up for exhaust work. My buddy Dany is doing the exhaust for me, he shares a shop space with geist works and also did my oil pan for me. He modified the headers to come down and clear the lollipop (pic 3 kinda shows this but the engine isn't fully bolted in here, so it will have more clearance when bolted down), and into a dual 2.5" into Y pipe 2.5" single with a vibrant resonator, and then to a stock dual 2" E30 magnaflow catback.

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  • Striker01
    replied
    Still working on finishing the coolant and AC lines. Should have them installed in the next couple weeks.

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  • caelanng
    replied
    Originally posted by Striker01
    I'm not sure about the ECU connectors, I ordered an extra engine harness to cannibalize from. All the pins you need for wiring are listed in a thread, in this subforum.

    For AC lines, I ordered Z4 ones and modded them to mate with the E30 lines. Still working on getting the AC to function through the ECU for idle bump.

    For heater you can have 22RPD set your water pump to a minimum speed of 20ish % and tap into hot side of radiator for input, then run the output under the radiator, over to the thermostat housing, using the M20 overflow/heater stock line.

    You can also add a low power aux water pump and plumb the heater on a closed loop to the hot side of the radiator, I used AN10 to 3/4" barbs. Mine is relay controlled by the e30 heater valve and I moved the overflow reservoir to the battery tray to get rid of the cross over line. Had to make a bracket and shorten the reservoir so it wouldn't hit the hood.

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    Hey man! Thanks for all the info, I've gone through your entire thread already I'll have to go through it again for the coolant / AC lines. This is super duper helpful and I'll ask 22RPD about the water pump min speed.

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  • caelanng
    replied
    Originally posted by Caperix
    Only your first page of pictures are loading but it looks great. On the wiring, there are a few places that claim to be able to do an ews delete on MSV80, then you would not need the cas & key. E70 MSV80 cars use a fuel pump relay instead of an EKPS so the shop doing the ews delete may be able to change the coding for that as well. There were also MSV80.1 e83's that use ews 3 and e46 bus structure, I'm not sure if hardware difference are present between the two other than the radiator outlet temp sensor input & sulev radiator sensor input as e9x n51 cars also used MSV80.1. I think as more is learned about these DME's it will open up more swap options.
    Oh I have no clue why my pictures didn't add I'll add them later this week when I have access to my laptop again, flying to oregon to pick up an F31 right now.

    I was in contact with 22rpd and bimmer tuning tools and they said I can actually delete the CAS and EWS with their software, and the redline motorsport swap harness I have allows me to delete the EKP, so we will see if this all works soon.​

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  • Striker01
    replied
    I'm not sure about the ECU connectors, I ordered an extra engine harness to cannibalize from. All the pins you need for wiring are listed in a thread, in this subforum.

    For AC lines, I ordered Z4 ones and modded them to mate with the E30 lines. Still working on getting the AC to function through the ECU for idle bump.

    For heater you can have 22RPD set your water pump to a minimum speed of 20ish % and tap into hot side of radiator for input, then run the output under the radiator, over to the thermostat housing, using the M20 overflow/heater stock line.

    You can also add a low power aux water pump and plumb the heater on a closed loop to the hot side of the radiator, I used AN10 to 3/4" barbs. Mine is relay controlled by the e30 heater valve and I moved the overflow reservoir to the battery tray to get rid of the cross over line. Had to make a bracket and shorten the reservoir so it wouldn't hit the hood.

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  • Caperix
    replied
    Only your first page of pictures are loading but it looks great. On the wiring, there are a few places that claim to be able to do an ews delete on MSV80, then you would not need the cas & key. E70 MSV80 cars use a fuel pump relay instead of an EKPS so the shop doing the ews delete may be able to change the coding for that as well. There were also MSV80.1 e83's that use ews 3 and e46 bus structure, I'm not sure if hardware difference are present between the two other than the radiator outlet temp sensor input & sulev radiator sensor input as e9x n51 cars also used MSV80.1. I think as more is learned about these DME's it will open up more swap options.

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  • caelanng
    replied
    Now the worst part, wiring... I absolutely hate wiring. The E92 I got for $400 was an MSV80 car, so I said screw it I'm going to run MSV80. I have the Redline Motorsport N52 MSV80 E30 swap adapter harness connected to a stock E92 Engine Harness. I haven't figured any of this out yet but I still have the cas module, and ekp module because I'm 99% sure I need them. The E92 harness isn't long enough to fit into the glove box, but my OBD2 port sticks out from inside the glove box, where the old light used to be, hopefully no light in the glove box will be fine the only time I use my glove box is to reach for my reg and insurance for when I get pulled over, but that never happens because I'm a responsible driver (this is a lie). My ECU is going to sit in the battery tray for now and I'll make a small enclosure for it, unless I can find a way to easily fit the ECU into the glove box. For fueling I'm running a Walboro 255LPH as 22RPD said that's all I need for running our amazing (garbage) California 91 with the trumpets. The Walboro 255 also not CRAZY loud but it should be fine as this is still a "street car"...

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    Next up cooling system, again this may be a struggle on this car but we will see as I'm not entirely there yet. The stock E30 radiator fits but leaves barely any room for a fan. So I have to get a lower profile radiator, if anyone has any idea for what to do for a radiator and fan that they personally fit, let me know because I'm interested. I'm using the stock E30 expansion tank, I got a new one as it's super cheap and not yellow like everything else in my engine bay. I might have to cut the lower part underneath the rad to tuck the radiator behind the AC condenser, oh this car will also have air conditioning and heat, still need to figure out custom lines for that.

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    Final bit of my initial photo dump will be about the exhaust. I have bull boost headers because they're pretty local and cheaper than the alibaba ones, they were like 350 and came in less than 48 hours. They interfere with the lower control arm bushing so my solution was to get some AKG spherical bushings so the header can clear, and well it still only BARELY clears, so I'm going to cut them and shift them slightly to the driver side to clear the passenger side lower control arm bushing. For the exhaust I want it to be quiet, I already have a magnaflow dual 2.25" catback on the car. I'm going to run a dual 2" inlet to single 2.5" outlet, into a vibrant ultra quiet 2.5" resonator, back into a single 2.5" inlet to dual 2.25" outlet to my standard Magnaflow catback. All 304 stainless from summit and ebay although the "ebay 304 stainless" doesn't seem to actually be stainless lol... so I wouldn't recommend buying from them in the future... I don't really have great pics of the headers not clearing so here's a picture of my catback and another picture with the lollipop removed so the headers can stay bolted on.

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    Anyways that's it for the first 10 days of my N52 swapped E30, hoping to get it running by mid february I'm honestly just waiting on parts and exhaust to be welded. Let me know if you have any questions or any insights on what I can do for the swap. Really need some help with cooling system ideas and AC ideas. Also where can I get the EKP wires/connectors from?​
    Last edited by caelanng; 02-12-2026, 09:45 AM.

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