N52 Swap Discussion

[Trevbot]

Should have just let it clearance itself.

[hubcapboy]

The counterweight comes close to the inside edge of the pan flange and there's some possibility for tolerance stack-up to create interference. I relieved the corner of the counterweight just a hair.

I'm pretty sure it needed that to get into perfect balance, anyway.

That rear fillet piece may have had a slightly shallower angle for me. You're looking at the very back of the engine, transmission is to the right.

I said "AH" component. you weren't supposed to tell people what it was.

[hoveringuy]

The counterweight comes close to the inside edge of the pan flange and there's some possibility for tolerance stack-up to create interference. I relieved the corner of the counterweight just a hair.

I'm pretty sure it needed that to get into perfect balance, anyway.

That rear fillet piece may have had a slightly shallower angle for me. You're looking at the very back of the engine, transmission is to the right.

[nando]

Doesn't look like that big of a deal, but I guess I'll definitely want to check clearances. Probably I'll just mark it with one of my N52 pans and grind that corner off a bit like you did.

I'll have the DMEs flashed and on their way to you guys soon.

[hubcapboy]

My engine was pretty gunky, and hoveringuy 's trial fitment (capable of a not insignificant distance on the freeway to my place) meant that I could abandon my mock-up car. My original plan was to have everything running in the red car (but not driving, because that car was undrivable) before touching mine. I'm days from pulling a well-serviced and reliable m20b27 with a leaky head gasket out of what used to be my daily driver, so to make myself feel better about it I've pulled all the ancillaries off the new motor and scrubbed it until it turned grey:



I've ordered a whole basket of new aluminum bolts to fit everything back on again. A new valve cover gasket kit and oil filter housing gasket will be going on before installation as well.

[hubcapboy]

Good evening.

I haven't given up.

Yet.

During hoveringuy 's engine assembly he ran into some... unwelcome interference. The pan was designed to run from the flange to clear the windage tray. What I hadn't spotted, because I hadn't turned my engine, is this naughty boy here:



There's a whopping great crank counterweight that swings down into this space several thousand times a minute. Steve made some adjustments to the shape of... one of the components. I lost a small amount of sleep every night for two weeks until just now. After raiding the kids drawers for some playdough, I installed the interference gauge:



After re-installing the pan and snugging enough bolts, I had a good print of the crank:



It clears on mine. Mercifully. Here's a section of the interference gauge:



I'm writing a whole post just on this with big flashy pictures to warn anyone in the future that this is a very critical clearance that I just lucked out on. Just to be safe, I've eased the inside corner of the flange:

[hoveringuy]

Here's one of the big reasons whey everyone complains about radiator clearance on the N52. This is the coolant bypass hose, it goes from the "mickey" fitting near the regular radiator outflow to the "closed" side of the thermostat. The radiator connects to the "open" side. When the thermostat is cold, the radiator flow is blocked and the only flow is through this hose (and some through the heater core) to keep water circulating through the engine when it's cold. Once the coolant gets hot enough, the thermostat opens and it's a mix of radiator flow and bypass from this hose.

It sticks out so far because it needs to clear the serpentine belt.



I don't have AC, so I don't need the most of the serpentine belt, I'm only driving the alternator and power steering on the drivers side. Since there's a cheaply available aluminum fitting for the water pipe "mickey" (the stock plastic fitting dissolves after XX miles), my task has been to fab an aluminum hardline that could run closer to the block. I've made my second prototype and it checks all the boxes. Next step is to have a number of aluminum tubes bent to reduce it to one weld at the fitting.

Clearance to the radiator is now basically limited to the profile of the cylinder head and the damper pulley. A 50mm radiator should be no problem, let along stock 33mm.


I haven't decided if I want to use the second mounting boss yet. It's where the plastic hose-holder was attached.

[hoveringuy]

I haven't had the car driving for a week because after proving that it all works, I've taken some things apart to make improvements and move toward my "forever" configuration. Radiator and the front of the engine is the focus, starting with installing a modified oil filter housing with an M14 bung for the e30 cluster sensor.

The cross-under tube which was previously EMT is now professionally mandrel-bent 7/8" stainless.

You will also notice the clearance to the radiator, another goal is to fabricate a hardline for the coolant bypass hose that's normally close to the radiator and, finally, look at using an N54 serpentine tensioner.

[hoveringuy]

Yes, it does. Both coolant and oil temperature based.

The 330i doesn't use an oil cooler, i don't think the Z4 did either. It was mainly the bigger cars - X5 and 5 series. The X5 was rated for towing 6,000lbs.

I can confirm the coolant failsafe. I popped a radiator hose that wasn't tightened enough. There was a puff of steam and the engine went to reduced power.

Tightened, refilled and was on my way.

[nando]

Yes, it does. Both coolant and oil temperature based.

The 330i doesn't use an oil cooler, i don't think the Z4 did either. It was mainly the bigger cars - X5 and 5 series. The X5 was rated for towing 6,000lbs.

[Caperix]

Does the Msv70 have a failsafe mode once oil temp gets to high? All the high output n52s use an oil cooler, granted an e30 is lighter than even a 1 series.

[nando]

Most N52s didn't have oil coolers from the factory. I'm sure you can fit one (there's a filter housing with one built in that should be a slam dunk), but IMO, it's not worth the added complexity, the N52 really doesn't need it.

I'm basically looking at deleting both the oil cooler and power steering with my build. Less mess, less maintenance, less weight. :)

[Caperix]

As long as it cools properly with just a pusher there isn't much reason to redesign everything. Is there room to add the oil cooler to the oil filter housing if needed, either the larger water cooled cooler or the smaller air cooled thermostat adapter from a n54/55?

[hubcapboy]

Engine position is page 15:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps/385417-n52-swap-discussion/page15

There’s a good shot there of how much room I had from the head to the firewall. If we have a real lessons learned I’ll go back and link forward to here.

[hubcapboy]

Engine position ended up being determined by 1.5 things that didn’t matter to Steve, but did matter to me.

I might have a chance to check where the notes are longitudinally relative to the M20 when I pull mine.

The interferences I remember running into were the heater core stubs to the intake (I’m using the three stage, Steve is using the N54 which is MUCH smaller and clears these laterally) and the transmission tunnel. I’m sure there’s a way to easily redirect these heater stubs, but the trans tunnel problem led me to not try.

I have the 330i transmission which is longer and I believe larger. I think this explains why Steve has room to go back when I didn’t think I did. If I’d shifted the engine back it would have had to go down, and the subframe would have conflicted with the block.