24V Swap Build Thread

[dylhaus]

Pretty much ready for first startup but the intake manifold is such a pain in the ass to install with it sitting so close to the firewall. I keep having issues with the harness being in the way of the last intake runner. Hopefully will get some time this weekend to work more on it

[dylhaus]

Well the car started up but I had to take it to a shop after many months of unsuccessful debugging. Per them, harness problems, a bad crank sensor, and maybe some EWS related shenanigans. If all goes well I should have the car back next week running on the sssquid chip. The AN-line dip stick probably won't be the way to go, and I may opt for removing the M20 oil level sender and having one fabbed based on that.

[dylhaus]

Hit a snag, the high pressure power steering line is leaking, so looking into solutions for that, likely will need to have another line made. Very eager to get the car back

[dylhaus]

Car is now complete and will be coming home Thursday! I'll have to put the front fascia, bumper and hood back on, but other than that, phase 1 is complete. The brakes are probably not the best since the booster was deleted, but I hope to fix that with maybe an electric booster in phase 2

[dylhaus]

Looks like Imgur changed sharing image formats, so here's a link to how it looks all put back together. https://imgur.com/a/s50-e30-325ix-ioAIf7s

So far, the issues I need to solve before driving it around outside the neighborhood are:

• Brake pedal return: the bushing failed when I put the pedal return spring back in so I ordered a replacement that will go in tonight. If that does not work, I might need to modify the spring to a stronger one
• Windows don't roll up/down, suspect it's a relay
• One of the blinkers is fast, and with the lights on, the front blinkers are just solid on and not blinking. The shop had to swap in another fuse box, so I wonder if there are two swapped pins on the relay in question
• Brake pedal is super mushy, so I think I'm going to try to bleed the brakes again. I would assume unassisted brakes would be hard as opposed to mushy. Long term I'm going to try to make one of the electric boosters (ibooster) work

[dylhaus]

Brake pedal return spring was weak, so I replaced it, and it still didn't fully depress the brake switch, so I'm running the weak spring as a helper and no longer have the brake switch issue. I also jumped the pins on a relay to be able to roll the driver's window up. Going to try to reseat one of the wires to the starter and see if that fixes some of the problems

[dylhaus]

I reseated the starter wires with no change to the behavior to the windows, so it's likely that circuit is not working. I took the car on a drive and had a pretty major oil leak from the stand-alone oil temp/pressure sensor. After the drive I drained the oil (because I still don't have a dipstick) and added the correct amount. Tightened the oil temp/pressure sensor back down and now I just have a power steering leak somewhere that the shop I had taken it to said they fixed. I'll have to get the front end in the air to check it out. The other gripes I have are the radiator cooling not being sufficient, I should've pushed back when they said the condenser fan would be enough to cool the rad, and with the AC running in 110+F heat, it can stall at a light as the rpms feel like they get throttled by the compressor. My battery is a little older, so I'm not sure if that's the culprit here, or if the alternator is having a hard time keeping up with the demands of the system. It's a 140A alternator off of the E36, with the correct voltage regulator