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    #16
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post

    I have removed/installed 10ish iX trans/tcase combos and only had an issue with upper bell housing bolt clearance on an automatic car. The manuals were always a non-issue.

    The only time I’ve wanted to cut the tub out w a sawzall was when I tried removing a tcase from a trans in the car. The top two tcase bolts were so difficult to remove that I dropped the front subframe down to finally get them off.

    I’m sure others may have different experiences, but I’ve never had any issues removing/installing a manual iX trans

    Great info thanks AWDBOB! I will do as you suggest. Hopefully saved me a whole heap of aggravation.
    Just need to buy a high lift trans jack so I can finish the job.
    89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
    1994 Mazda Miata

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      #17
      Originally posted by E30andy View Post


      Great info thanks AWDBOB! I will do as you suggest. Hopefully saved me a whole heap of aggravation.
      Just need to buy a high lift trans jack so I can finish the job.
      Since you’re removing the motor as well eventually, you could also drop the front subframe down a tad to help with the whole process!

      Or-

      When parting, I like to do as little work under the car as possible. On the rusty iX I just parted I dropped the engine/trans/front subframe/suspension together out of the bottom and it saved me the hassle of dealing with bellhousing, tcase, etc by themselves. Just another option!
      1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
      1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post

        Since you’re removing the motor as well eventually, you could also drop the front subframe down a tad to help with the whole process!

        Or-

        When parting, I like to do as little work under the car as possible. On the rusty iX I just parted I dropped the engine/trans/front subframe/suspension together out of the bottom and it saved me the hassle of dealing with bellhousing, tcase, etc by themselves. Just another option!
        OK thats an intriguing thought that didnt even cross my mind!
        So I would drop out the bottom onto my garage floor. I guess I wont need a trans jack if I do it this way, but any tips on what to drop it on so I can move it out of the way and work on it (remove tranny, transfer case, suspension, etc)? Some sort of dolly?
        89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
        1994 Mazda Miata

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by E30andy View Post

          OK thats an intriguing thought that didnt even cross my mind!
          So I would drop out the bottom onto my garage floor. I guess I wont need a trans jack if I do it this way, but any tips on what to drop it on so I can move it out of the way and work on it (remove tranny, transfer case, suspension, etc)? Some sort of dolly?
          Yep, I’ve got a dolly that I drop it all down onto and then roll it out! Since you have a lift it makes it that much easier to drop it all out as one assembly.
          1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
          1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

          Comment


            #20
            Hey Guys!

            So I am getting ready to drain the fuel tank but I cant seem to find the drain plug. According to the forums and Realoem its should be on the passenger side of the tank, but I cant find it anywhere on the tank. What am I missing?

            Thanks!
            89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
            1994 Mazda Miata

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by E30andy View Post

              OK thats an intriguing thought that didnt even cross my mind!
              So I would drop out the bottom onto my garage floor. I guess I wont need a trans jack if I do it this way, but any tips on what to drop it on so I can move it out of the way and work on it (remove tranny, transfer case, suspension, etc)? Some sort of dolly?
              Go to ACE and get some long bolts to hang the subframe as low as you want during the whole process. Simply take out the shorter bolts (one at a time) and replace with long bolts. Pedal box through-bolts work well for this, but one has to have four around which would be rare. It works great for many repair operations on our cars. It's good to watch the sterring column angle and joints to avoid binding and damage for sure.

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                #22
                Having a hell of a time with the front suspension. Every ball joint just spins when I try to separate them, even the friggin sway bar attachment at the strut! Took some creative wrenching to get the strut housing out!

                Anyway, I have the front strut housings out but can’t figure out how to get the actual strut out of the housing. Everything is corroded pretty solid so don’t want to start hammering on anything until I know what I’m doing. Soaked in PB plaster for now.

                Can anyone help?
                Attached Files
                89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                1994 Mazda Miata

                Comment


                  #23
                  Yours do not look to bad. Keep working the PB in for a long time. Do you have a big chunk of metal like an anvil? Below the gland nut, I use a small hammer and just tap away all around the circumference, backing the assembly up with the chunk of metal, to try to loosen up the rust. If they are super stubborn, I use a dull cold chisel and whack away around the circumference about 3/8" apart. The method works extremely well, but patience is your friend. I have waited a week hitting the part with PB a couple of times a day.The Billy gland nut is robust so not much worry of it breaking.

                  One must keep pressure on the joints below the balls while removing the securing nuts. I usually keep a second jack on hand for this purpose.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by packratbimmer View Post
                    Yours do not look to bad. Keep working the PB in for a long time. Do you have a big chunk of metal like an anvil? Below the gland nut, I use a small hammer and just tap away all around the circumference, backing the assembly up with the chunk of metal, to try to loosen up the rust. If they are super stubborn, I use a dull cold chisel and whack away around the circumference about 3/8" apart. The method works extremely well, but patience is your friend. I have waited a week hitting the part with PB a couple of times a day.The Billy gland nut is robust so not much worry of it breaking.

                    One must keep pressure on the joints below the balls while removing the securing nuts. I usually keep a second jack on hand for this purpose.
                    Thanks for the advice! Yes they are not too bad. Definitely keepers. Plan on wire wheeling them and painting.

                    So the gland nut unscrews (after beating on it awhile)? Weird that it is round so there is no way to get a wrench or channel locks on it. I guess just use a screw driver in the slots and bang on it with a hammer to unscrew it?


                    89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                    1994 Mazda Miata

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Bilstein makes a tool for it - I cannot remember the size. The smaller size is harder to find. I tap below the gland nut on the housing itself, but not on the gland nut - just enough to break the rust bond.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Happy New Years guys!
                        Got the rear subframe out and took off the rear trailing arms. I’m wondering if anyone has experience with the GC rear adjustable springs on my car? I want to remove the rear adjustable spring perch but don’t want to destroy it in the process. Seems pretty well attached and not sure what to do to remove it. Any suggestions? Pic rotated when a I attached it as it always seems to do, sorry! I live on a dirt road that’s why its caked in dirt…
                        Thanks!
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by E30andy; 01-02-2022, 10:30 AM.
                        89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                        1994 Mazda Miata

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I have *never* in all of my years gotten GC rear adjusters off without destroying them. I have tried every method under the sun. The only time I actually got one removed, it was destroyed in the process, and that was with a pipe wrench.

                          GC used to be cool and would sell you just the threaded piece on the cheap so it was no big deal, but they no longer support their customers who need individual parts for setups we've already purchased, and they just expect you to buy a complete new kit/parts every time you need something.
                          1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
                          1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
                            I have *never* in all of my years gotten GC rear adjusters off without destroying them. I have tried every method under the sun. The only time I actually got one removed, it was destroyed in the process, and that was with a pipe wrench.

                            GC used to be cool and would sell you just the threaded piece on the cheap so it was no big deal, but they no longer support their customers who need individual parts for setups we've already purchased, and they just expect you to buy a complete new kit/parts every time you need something.
                            Haha I was waiting for you to respond!! I know you have experience with GC.
                            I kinda figured after monkeying around with it for an hour or so that it wasnt coming off. Did you try heat? Thats the only thing I havent tried.
                            Any thoughts on the fronts coming off??

                            Attached Files
                            89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                            1994 Mazda Miata

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Hey Guys!
                              I got the engine/transmission out (the bottom) this morning.
                              I am having trouble separating the motor from the manual tranny though. All the bolts are out and it slides back an inch or so and will rotate but is getting hung up and wont come off.
                              Any suggestions?

                              Thanks!
                              Attached Files
                              89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                              1994 Mazda Miata

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I figured it out! Just had to take some weight off the tail end of the tranny and it slid right off.
                                89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                                1994 Mazda Miata

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