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First time parting an ix-need advice

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    #16
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post

    I have removed/installed 10ish iX trans/tcase combos and only had an issue with upper bell housing bolt clearance on an automatic car. The manuals were always a non-issue.

    The only time I’ve wanted to cut the tub out w a sawzall was when I tried removing a tcase from a trans in the car. The top two tcase bolts were so difficult to remove that I dropped the front subframe down to finally get them off.

    I’m sure others may have different experiences, but I’ve never had any issues removing/installing a manual iX trans

    Great info thanks AWDBOB! I will do as you suggest. Hopefully saved me a whole heap of aggravation.
    Just need to buy a high lift trans jack so I can finish the job.
    89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
    1994 Mazda Miata

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      #17
      Originally posted by E30andy View Post


      Great info thanks AWDBOB! I will do as you suggest. Hopefully saved me a whole heap of aggravation.
      Just need to buy a high lift trans jack so I can finish the job.
      Since you’re removing the motor as well eventually, you could also drop the front subframe down a tad to help with the whole process!

      Or-

      When parting, I like to do as little work under the car as possible. On the rusty iX I just parted I dropped the engine/trans/front subframe/suspension together out of the bottom and it saved me the hassle of dealing with bellhousing, tcase, etc by themselves. Just another option!
      1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
      1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

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        #18
        Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post

        Since you’re removing the motor as well eventually, you could also drop the front subframe down a tad to help with the whole process!

        Or-

        When parting, I like to do as little work under the car as possible. On the rusty iX I just parted I dropped the engine/trans/front subframe/suspension together out of the bottom and it saved me the hassle of dealing with bellhousing, tcase, etc by themselves. Just another option!
        OK thats an intriguing thought that didnt even cross my mind!
        So I would drop out the bottom onto my garage floor. I guess I wont need a trans jack if I do it this way, but any tips on what to drop it on so I can move it out of the way and work on it (remove tranny, transfer case, suspension, etc)? Some sort of dolly?
        89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
        1994 Mazda Miata

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          #19
          Originally posted by E30andy View Post

          OK thats an intriguing thought that didnt even cross my mind!
          So I would drop out the bottom onto my garage floor. I guess I wont need a trans jack if I do it this way, but any tips on what to drop it on so I can move it out of the way and work on it (remove tranny, transfer case, suspension, etc)? Some sort of dolly?
          Yep, I’ve got a dolly that I drop it all down onto and then roll it out! Since you have a lift it makes it that much easier to drop it all out as one assembly.
          1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
          1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

          Comment


            #20
            Hey Guys!

            So I am getting ready to drain the fuel tank but I cant seem to find the drain plug. According to the forums and Realoem its should be on the passenger side of the tank, but I cant find it anywhere on the tank. What am I missing?

            Thanks!
            89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
            1994 Mazda Miata

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              #21
              Originally posted by E30andy View Post

              OK thats an intriguing thought that didnt even cross my mind!
              So I would drop out the bottom onto my garage floor. I guess I wont need a trans jack if I do it this way, but any tips on what to drop it on so I can move it out of the way and work on it (remove tranny, transfer case, suspension, etc)? Some sort of dolly?
              Go to ACE and get some long bolts to hang the subframe as low as you want during the whole process. Simply take out the shorter bolts (one at a time) and replace with long bolts. Pedal box through-bolts work well for this, but one has to have four around which would be rare. It works great for many repair operations on our cars. It's good to watch the sterring column angle and joints to avoid binding and damage for sure.

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                #22
                Having a hell of a time with the front suspension. Every ball joint just spins when I try to separate them, even the friggin sway bar attachment at the strut! Took some creative wrenching to get the strut housing out!

                Anyway, I have the front strut housings out but can’t figure out how to get the actual strut out of the housing. Everything is corroded pretty solid so don’t want to start hammering on anything until I know what I’m doing. Soaked in PB plaster for now.

                Can anyone help?
                Attached Files
                89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                1994 Mazda Miata

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                  #23
                  Yours do not look to bad. Keep working the PB in for a long time. Do you have a big chunk of metal like an anvil? Below the gland nut, I use a small hammer and just tap away all around the circumference, backing the assembly up with the chunk of metal, to try to loosen up the rust. If they are super stubborn, I use a dull cold chisel and whack away around the circumference about 3/8" apart. The method works extremely well, but patience is your friend. I have waited a week hitting the part with PB a couple of times a day.The Billy gland nut is robust so not much worry of it breaking.

                  One must keep pressure on the joints below the balls while removing the securing nuts. I usually keep a second jack on hand for this purpose.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by packratbimmer View Post
                    Yours do not look to bad. Keep working the PB in for a long time. Do you have a big chunk of metal like an anvil? Below the gland nut, I use a small hammer and just tap away all around the circumference, backing the assembly up with the chunk of metal, to try to loosen up the rust. If they are super stubborn, I use a dull cold chisel and whack away around the circumference about 3/8" apart. The method works extremely well, but patience is your friend. I have waited a week hitting the part with PB a couple of times a day.The Billy gland nut is robust so not much worry of it breaking.

                    One must keep pressure on the joints below the balls while removing the securing nuts. I usually keep a second jack on hand for this purpose.
                    Thanks for the advice! Yes they are not too bad. Definitely keepers. Plan on wire wheeling them and painting.

                    So the gland nut unscrews (after beating on it awhile)? Weird that it is round so there is no way to get a wrench or channel locks on it. I guess just use a screw driver in the slots and bang on it with a hammer to unscrew it?


                    89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                    1994 Mazda Miata

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                      #25
                      Bilstein makes a tool for it - I cannot remember the size. The smaller size is harder to find. I tap below the gland nut on the housing itself, but not on the gland nut - just enough to break the rust bond.

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