New set has arrived! Front shaft uppgrade *Finland-Fix*

[nando]

there would be some shear as well, and there are only 2 small bolts. I don't think it would hold.

[dinan3]

Thanks for reviewing that type of joint. I was looking at something more round like a rzeppa style cv joint where the bolts would be parallel to the shaft on both sides.
Similar to rzeppa but not really needing the cv or angle flexibility. Since this shaft doesn't need to flex.

I have an auto trans so I am limited on space.

Are these still for sale on eBay?
I need two.


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[The Dark Side of Will]

So... I asked about this topic on Corner-Carvers: http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=48708

And it was pointed out that Mark Williams makes a BUNCH of driveshaft coupler fittings that will DEFINITELY be strong enough to take... whatever we want to throw at them.

I looked through the collection, and these two look likely.

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=370

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=350

[The Dark Side of Will]

there would be some shear as well, and there are only 2 small bolts. I don't think it would hold.

I don't see that it would be in shear... I think that torque on it would simply try to "lever" the two halves apart putting the bolt almost purely in tension where it's strongest.

[dinan3]

Thanks for researching and bringing this up on the other forum. You worded it much better than I could!

I'm not certain how the parts you posted would work. The ring (male) looking gear would be welded to the outside of one half of the drive shaft? The other (female) end would be on the other driveshaft piece?

Wouldn't that still need room to disengage the two gears? What would hold the two gears together?

Sorry I'm not envisioning it...yet. :)




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[DRTSRFR]

That coupler looks like a nice piece. But the way I see it, you will loose spline engagement on the coupler, or the nipple when installed. Just the thing we are trying to eliminate.

In our situation, the coupler has to be a flush mount. I think the other example is more on track, as you can have two dogs which can be slid radially to engage before bolting up.

[nando]

I don't see that it would be in shear... I think that torque on it would simply try to "lever" the two halves apart putting the bolt almost purely in tension where it's strongest.

because it's twisting. there is a force in both directions.

[jute91]

Why not to just add another flange like that connects front diff and front drive shaft?

[The Dark Side of Will]

That coupler looks like a nice piece. But the way I see it, you will loose spline engagement on the coupler, or the nipple when installed. Just the thing we are trying to eliminate.

In our situation, the coupler has to be a flush mount. I think the other example is more on track, as you can have two dogs which can be slid radially to engage before bolting up.

One end of the coupler would be welded to the Jute's fitting, the other to the cut down driveshaft. Installation order would be: Jute's fitting in the T-case, then the rest of the driveshaft, engaging the coupler, then the guibo at the diff. As long as the guibo is thicker than the depth of the coupler, spline engagement won't be any less than what it would be with a fully welded shaft.

[The Dark Side of Will]

because it's twisting. there is a force in both directions.

As it twists, the edge of the one fitting will act like the fulcrum of a second class lever, with the bolt the load and the other edge the effort... Bolt ends up in tension.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Why not to just add another flange like that connects front diff and front drive shaft?

Would you use a guibo?
I don't know of an application in which BMW used a shaft with a flex disk at either end. That would be a little sketchy to me.

Also, all guibos are larger than the 4 bolt diff flange. There may or may not be clearance between the 4 bolt diff flange and the floor pan. Going to a flange larger than the 4 bolt would certainly require "work" on the floor pan and maybe cutting and welding.

[DRTSRFR]

One end of the coupler would be welded to the Jute's fitting, the other to the cut down driveshaft. Installation order would be: Jute's fitting in the T-case, then the rest of the driveshaft, engaging the coupler, then the guibo at the diff. As long as the guibo is thicker than the depth of the coupler, spline engagement won't be any less than what it would be with a fully welded shaft.

Got it. I do see how that could work.:)

[AndrewBird]

Would you use a guibo?
I don't know of an application in which BMW used a shaft with a flex disk at either end. That would be a little sketchy to me.

Also, all guibos are larger than the 4 bolt diff flange. There may or may not be clearance between the 4 bolt diff flange and the floor pan. Going to a flange larger than the 4 bolt would certainly require "work" on the floor pan and maybe cutting and welding.

You don't need a guibo.

All you would need is two rings (1/8" thick maybe?) with an ID the same as the OD of the shaft and an OD just big enough to fit a 3-4 bolt pattern around it. You wouldn't even need to shorten the shaft, just cut it. Maybe even use this technique to make sure everything is aligned straight:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0wMIF6EPfY&feature=youtu.be&t=10m23s

[LJ851]

Would you use a guibo?
I don't know of an application in which BMW used a shaft with a flex disk at either end. That would be a little sketchy to me.

My '68 1600 has a driveshaft with 3 flex disks and no u joints from the factory.

[jute91]

Matti with his +800hp ix is going for two flex discs at the front driveshaft.

By that it smoothens the torque peaks to front diff making it last longer.

the G260 has been on hard too. 3 gearboxes exploded at 3rd gear. I guess aluminum cover and so narrow axles cant handle that much torque.