New set has arrived! Front shaft uppgrade *Finland-Fix*

[The Dark Side of Will]

because it's twisting. there is a force in both directions.

As it twists, the edge of the one fitting will act like the fulcrum of a second class lever, with the bolt the load and the other edge the effort... Bolt ends up in tension.

[The Dark Side of Will]

That coupler looks like a nice piece. But the way I see it, you will loose spline engagement on the coupler, or the nipple when installed. Just the thing we are trying to eliminate.

In our situation, the coupler has to be a flush mount. I think the other example is more on track, as you can have two dogs which can be slid radially to engage before bolting up.

One end of the coupler would be welded to the Jute's fitting, the other to the cut down driveshaft. Installation order would be: Jute's fitting in the T-case, then the rest of the driveshaft, engaging the coupler, then the guibo at the diff. As long as the guibo is thicker than the depth of the coupler, spline engagement won't be any less than what it would be with a fully welded shaft.

[jute91]

Why not to just add another flange like that connects front diff and front drive shaft?

[nando]

I don't see that it would be in shear... I think that torque on it would simply try to "lever" the two halves apart putting the bolt almost purely in tension where it's strongest.

because it's twisting. there is a force in both directions.

[DRTSRFR]

That coupler looks like a nice piece. But the way I see it, you will loose spline engagement on the coupler, or the nipple when installed. Just the thing we are trying to eliminate.

In our situation, the coupler has to be a flush mount. I think the other example is more on track, as you can have two dogs which can be slid radially to engage before bolting up.

[dinan3]

Thanks for researching and bringing this up on the other forum. You worded it much better than I could!

I'm not certain how the parts you posted would work. The ring (male) looking gear would be welded to the outside of one half of the drive shaft? The other (female) end would be on the other driveshaft piece?

Wouldn't that still need room to disengage the two gears? What would hold the two gears together?

Sorry I'm not envisioning it...yet. :)




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[The Dark Side of Will]

there would be some shear as well, and there are only 2 small bolts. I don't think it would hold.

I don't see that it would be in shear... I think that torque on it would simply try to "lever" the two halves apart putting the bolt almost purely in tension where it's strongest.

[The Dark Side of Will]

So... I asked about this topic on Corner-Carvers: http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=48708

And it was pointed out that Mark Williams makes a BUNCH of driveshaft coupler fittings that will DEFINITELY be strong enough to take... whatever we want to throw at them.

I looked through the collection, and these two look likely.

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=370

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=350

[dinan3]

Thanks for reviewing that type of joint. I was looking at something more round like a rzeppa style cv joint where the bolts would be parallel to the shaft on both sides.
Similar to rzeppa but not really needing the cv or angle flexibility. Since this shaft doesn't need to flex.

I have an auto trans so I am limited on space.

Are these still for sale on eBay?
I need two.


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[nando]

there would be some shear as well, and there are only 2 small bolts. I don't think it would hold.

[The Dark Side of Will]

neat part but I don't think that would work well in a twisting situation. you'd want to make something more like a regular driveshaft flange.

The bolts end up loaded directly in tension... it might actually be quite strong, as long as the bolts are torqued properly, which can be hit or miss with socket caps.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Question for all following this thread. When considering the upgrade, I also want to easily remove/install the front driveshaft. I saw the other joint in previous posts, but it was mentioned that it was too big and would hit the trans.

Would something similar to this be able to handle the amount of torque on the shaft?

http://www.4xinnovations.com/175-Tube-Bolt-Together-Sleeve_p_104.html

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The flange I showed earlier in this thread would be fine with a manual transmission. It only lacks clearance to the automatic.

It may require a little shaping to clear the transmission tunnel.

That fitting is an interesting find... I'll look into that. I'd seen them used before in bolt-in roll cage fabrication, but hadn't though about how much torque they can handle.

[nando]

Question for all following this thread. When considering the upgrade, I also want to easily remove/install the front driveshaft. I saw the other joint in previous posts, but it was mentioned that it was too big and would hit the trans.

Would something similar to this be able to handle the amount of torque on the shaft?

http://www.4xinnovations.com/175-Tube-Bolt-Together-Sleeve_p_104.html

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neat part but I don't think that would work well in a twisting situation. you'd want to make something more like a regular driveshaft flange.

[jute91]

Question for all following this thread. When considering the upgrade, I also want to easily remove/install the front driveshaft. I saw the other joint in previous posts, but it was mentioned that it was too big and would hit the trans.

Would something similar to this be able to handle the amount of torque on the shaft?

http://www.4xinnovations.com/175-Tube-Bolt-Together-Sleeve_p_104.html

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The problem with the extra flange joint is the location. But sure there is space near the transfer case.

[dinan3]

Front shaft uppgrade FOR SALE!

Also I don't think it's the right diameters, I was thinking the joint type. Or give some ideas to something like a cardian joint.
I really do not want to drop the transfer case or trans fill tube( auto) to swap, regrease, inspect, etc.



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