New set has arrived! Front shaft uppgrade *Finland-Fix*

[DRTSRFR]

Not the best pic, but you can see the OD of the shaft is very similar to the OD of the stub.

[TehRaydarlover]

I just pressed mine in. I think it was intended to be size on size so you didn't have to worry about keeping the head aligned while welding it to the shaft.

[DRTSRFR]

Sadly, I didn't take pics.

Fortunately, I now work in the machining industry, and the fix was simple. A friend of mine did his three weeks ago and had the same issue.

Mine is an automatic. Is it possible the manual version is different?

[The Dark Side of Will]

I did, however, have to turn the new stub down to fit into the hollow shaft. It was basically the same diameter as the OD of the shaft when delivered.

Pics? That doesn't sound right.

[DRTSRFR]

Just did mine...

Technically you don't have to "drop" the t-case. I was able to slide mine back and had plenty of room.

I did, however, have to turn the new stub down to fit into the hollow shaft. It was basically the same diameter as the OD of the shaft when delivered.

[nando]

you have to drop the transfercase to install the shaft.

[Wille30]

I received my shaft upgrade a while ago (it looks great btw) and I have a spare drive shaft that I will use as a doner. My only issue is what I should tell the machine shop that is welding it together. Do I just tell them to line up the O-ring slots, Cut the drive shaft where the new shaft has the step up, insert the shaft upgrade, align and weld?

ALSO is installation any more difficult due to the increased length of the shaft?

Thanks!

[The Dark Side of Will]

My dad bought one of Jute91's driveshaft repair fittings and had a local machinist press and weld a BMW 4 bolt flange onto it.

FIRST, setting up the driveshaft this way allows a repaired E30 driveshaft to be installed and removed WITHOUT dropping the transfer case or the diff.

HOWEVER, this flange is in slightly the wrong place. It needs to be cut off and moved closer to the splines (and the repair fitting trimmed) in order to clear the oil pan on the 4HP22. ALSO, the flange does not clear the transmission tunnel, which needs to be "persuaded" a bit.

Here's the repair fitting with female flange and modded driveshaft with male flange:



Here's the assembly with a naked T-case sprocket:



The flange needs to be reworked to move to the right in this photo in order to clear the auto trans oil pan.

[The Dark Side of Will]

For an automatic the fluid fill tube wraps around and under the driveshaft...

The stock driveshaft still comes right out.

[Northern]

The X5 centering pin is longer than the iX pin, which lets you use the thicker x5 guibo, which engages the splines deeper into the transfercase without losing the functionality of the centering pin.

[dinan3]

Thanks all, I have a spare shaft that I am going to do the upgrade on.
I did add spacers to mine but I now have learned you only have so much room before contact would be made to the bell housing.

What exactly does the X5 center piece add as far as functionality? More center pin engagement? Also is there anyway to remove the front driveshaft without other major components?

For an automatic the fluid fill tube wraps around and under the driveshaft...



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[jute91]

maximum engagement with stock shaft is ~30mm. stock setup uses about 18mm of it. the stock output sprocket has splined lenght around 60-61mm.
this version of mine uses 50mm of it. also, you need to think about the sealing. If you push it too far, the O-ring might not be sealing if it drops out of the plastic cover

[nando]

don't wait until it strips. it'll just damage the output sprocket of your transfercase. no bueno.

[TehRaydarlover]

Question. Any reason (as long as the splines are in good shape) we couldn't cut the existing driveshaft in the middle, add similar diameter tubing and weld it back together to extend the drive shaft?

There is enough splines on the original shaft, we just want another inch or two of engagement, right?

I think the upgrade kit is a great idea if your splines are worn, but I'm also looking for a cheaper interim solution.


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Your not going to get too much more thread engagement out of the stock head, maybe a 1/4in. If you make the stock shaft longer then you'll have to drop the t-case or front diff to get it in and every time you want to grease it. If you want to get a little more engagement on the cheap just use a spacer like others have been doing for a long time.

Ray

[dinan3]

Question. Any reason (as long as the splines are in good shape) we couldn't cut the existing driveshaft in the middle, add similar diameter tubing and weld it back together to extend the drive shaft?

There is enough splines on the original shaft, we just want another inch or two of engagement, right?

I think the upgrade kit is a great idea if your splines are worn, but I'm also looking for a cheaper interim solution.


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