Brights?

[NC325iC]

if you had listened to me and used your known good bulb to test you wouldnt have spent money on new bulbs you didnt need.

guess you need to trace the wire for a short

[dkbmxer002]

like stereoinstaller said, check wiring now. good luck!

[GunMetalGrey]

Wiring still is original wrapping, so I am going to wait for the relay first.

[GunMetalGrey]

Alright, Relay changed. Nothing... I did notice that the high beam filiment does ignite on the drivers side outer. So I am back to the wiring! passenger side wiring is not as old as i thought it was.... the wires to the distributor of the passenger side looks old, but coming off the distributor, the wires look newer. I was also wondering what lights are supposed to light up with the running lights. And with the brights on? and anyone have a good DIY for reading wiring diagrams? A little bit new there.

[accident]

running lights would be all 4 parking lights and all 4 sidemarkers.

[GunMetalGrey]

running lights would be all 4 parking lights and all 4 sidemarkers.

Parking lights? Sorry, I got this car this way, so I have no clue what lights should be on or off.

[GunMetalGrey]

Guys, just so you know, my '87 325iS has a broken wire somewhere under the core support.

I had to jumper across to get the low beam to work, as I have not taken it apart to fix it properly.

This is exactly the same issue I had, same side and everything.

Would you mind explaining this a tad more? I am running out of options here

[accident]

the two front turn signals, and the two outside red tail lights next to the rear turn signals

[GunMetalGrey]

the two front turn signals, and the two outside red tail lights next to the rear turn signals

Alright, thanks

[DaveSmed]

Well, don't bother fucking around with the switch or the relay, it cannot be either.

What the fuck, am I the only person who can read a diagram? Or maybe just the only one who is willing to help AND read a diagram.

Already replaced almost all of the fuses, and that didn't do anything. So maybe it is "Rocket Surgery"?

Wiring still is original wrapping, so I am going to wait for the relay first.

Alright, Relay changed. Nothing...

Apologies for the threadjack, but Luke, reread that quoted stuff and you can see why many people are burned out from helping, even for something as simple as headlights. Can't blame the OP necessarily either, this IS the internet and bad advice is plentiful. (like everyone who suggested the relay with the passenger side plainly functioning properly.) It can be hard to separate the good from the bad. End result is still a broken car, and 55 posts about headlight diagnosis for a circuit that totals what, eight feet? And is easily accessible?

Maybe a DMM/electrical diagnosis How-To might be a good idea.....

[GunMetalGrey]

Merry Christmas Guys. Two things, I am sorry if I have been a little bit rude here, im just getting a tad frustrated. I am a 16 year old kid, this is my first car, by other people of my age I know a ton about stuff like this, so sometimes a get a little bit hot headed and shun peoples ideas, tommorow I will take the bulbs out and run the multi meter to the plugs for the lights, see what that does, maybe the guy put the wires in the wrong spot. But I am sorry If i have made anyone mad. Again, Merry Christmas!

[accident]

I am a 16 year old kid

No further explanation needed.

[DaveSmed]

Ok, very first thing to check with the meter (highbeams on of course) is voltage across the plug with both headlights on that side unplugged.

Undo both connectors from the RH headlights, and measure across the white/blue and brown wire.

If you have battery voltage, plug a bulb in and measure across the remaining open connector. Does the voltage drop down?

If it does, take the meter lead off the brown wire and attach it to a good ground. If the voltage came back, you have a bad ground. If it didnt, you have a bad connection somewhere else in the circuit. Reinstall both headlights and post your results.


If after the first part (with no lights connected) you got no voltage, reinstall your lights and move to the fusebox. Remove fuse 2 and check across the two terminals in the fusebox for fuse 2 for voltage. (the one closest to the relays should be positive, the furthest negative) Do you have voltage?

If you do have voltage, unplug the same bulbs and see if it goes away. If it does, the fuse has issues. If it doesn't, there's probably a connector somewhere with severe corrosion or something of the like. (unlikely in an E30 headlight circuit)

If you do not have voltage, leave the positive lead connected to the fuse 2 terminal closest to the relays, and move the negative lead to a good ground. If you have voltage, there is a broken wire in the highbeam circuit.

If you do not have voltage, your fusebox has internal problems and should be replaced.


They're some tests you can do to give us numbers to work with, instead of everybody simply guessing shit like maybe there isn't enough gas in the tank, the moon is in the wrong phase, or what have you. I just rattled a couple off the top of my head, but do those and post up the results and we will tell you what the mean or suggest additional tests.

[DaveSmed]

And while I am on the topic, do not ohm out wires. Hell, for the most part, don't use the ohms setting on your meter. It is only useful for a tiny handful of things on a car, and nothing you would use it for without knowing exactly when it is appropriate (like when a spec is given in ohms...)

Your ohmmeter lies. The voltmeter checking voltage drop does not. (see Lukes test light rant)

Measuring open circuit voltage with your voltmeter will turn it dishonest too BTW.

[GunMetalGrey]

ok, to make it short and simple, fuse 2 is dead, when i would test it with brights with the multi meter it would read nothing. When i moved the negative lead to the engine block it gave 12 volts. So a broken wire it is?