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Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass

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    Are there any common spots for the radio wire to short out at?

    Recently went to install my new headunit, a JVC 775s, and it keeps giving me the error message -Misswire, check wiring then power on.

    Every time i turn the headunit on there is a pop at the rear right speaker then it proceeds to give that error code. I am positive that it is a short in the wiring but I really don't want to pull all the wiring if I don't have to. No possibility of a short at the headunit connections because all of it is connected and electrical taped off. Any ideas?
    89' 325ix Diamantschwarz/Black rattle can...

    Insta: r_moose_w

    Originally posted by flyboyx
    I imagine her smelling like spoiled milk and having a half inch crust of doodoo circumnavigating her butthole.

    Comment


      On my car, 9/87 build with premium stereo and fader, I've got a gray/red wire that is constant 12 Volts out of the dash, instead of the red/green as spec'd in the wiring diagram. I do have a red/green wire, I just have no idea where it goes to - it does not go to any of the speakers, and doesn't come out where the amplifier was in the trunk.
      My constant dash wire, gray/red, does not kick out 12 volts in the trunk, and the same color is used on the left front speaker, as spec'd in the wiring diagram.
      Maybe someone could clarify this for me.

      Edit: so I found out that the red/green works for illumination. Strange though. You think it came like that from the factory? The former install looked like a disaster...
      Last edited by tkeenan; 11-04-2016, 01:16 AM. Reason: partial reason found

      Comment


        I was given a Continental TR7412UB for my birthday recently and I am trying to install it. I have premium sound, 6 wires, with the fader. The back uses a standard ISO radio adapter, 16 pin.

        So my issue is, 1. When I connected my new stereo the same way as my old stereo, it didn't work. My old stereo uses a common ground and 2 leads, L and R. The TR7 uses a ground for the stereo, and then each side/speaker needs a + and -. I've been trying to get any music to play, but I've been having no luck. 2. I misread another thread (that says the same thing about this one, with 8 wires, cut the fader off) and I cut the fader wiring. That's not the biggest deal, I left enough to wire back on if need be, but that's where it is.

        So how do I get +/- for each corner and retain the stock amp? Options?

        Edit: I removed the amp and ran new speaker cable to each corner. Sounds great.
        Last edited by Kershaw; 11-12-2016, 09:06 AM.
        AWD > RWD

        Comment


          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
          First, let me say this is NOT applicable to all E30s. Generally, Late Model (88+) will have this wiring on premium sound cars. IF you have a fader in the dash, this MAY work: you need to unwrap about 8" of fader harness to see if you have 4 pairs of speaker wires, as some cars have only 6 wires, not 4 pairs (8 total) so if this chart does not apply PERFECTLY to your car, don't use it.

          Quick disclaimer: this is not idiot proof. You mess it up, don't whine at me, I do not care.

          If this saves you countless hours of hassle or you are just feeling generous, feel free to paypal me a tip. Add "@gmail.com" to Stereoinstaller1 and I promise to only use the money for projects on my car.


          OK, here is the info.

          Obviously, what you do here is simple: connect the "deck" wire to the "dash" wire, then back at the trunk, connect that "dash" wire to the "speaker" wire.

          This is not rocket surgery, boys. Get it done.



          Aftermarket-----------Dash Wires-----------Speaker Wires

          RF+ Grey--------------Blue/Red-------------Grey/White
          RF- Grey/Black--------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Brown

          LF+ White------------Yellow/Red------------Grey/Red
          LF- White/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Violet

          RR+ Violet------------Blue/Black------------Black/White
          RR- Violet/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Brown

          LR+ Green------------Yellow/Black----------Black/Red
          LR- Green/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Violet


          (+12V Unswitched) Yellow----Red/Green (Changes to Yellow at C302)

          (+12V ACC) Red-------------Violet/White (Changes to Voilet/Grey at C302)

          (Ground) Black---------------Brown (may also be Brown/Black)

          (ILL) Orange-----------------Grey/Red (Changes to White at C302)

          (P ANT) Blue-----------------White (this is one of 2 white wires)

          (AMP REM) Blue/White--------White (this is the one in the same harness as the speakers)

          Luke
          This is driving me crazy. I have my car all apart and I still can't sort this. I don't have any twisted pairs, or the brown/orange wires, nor do I have the blue/brown wires that should be ground. No twisted pairs. I have chased the factory wiring all the way to behind the gauge cluster with no luck. Car has an aftermarket Pioneer deck that was installed at a shop according to the previous owner. Whoever did it capped off all the - outputs from the stereo.

          The stereo worked when I bought the car and then quit a couple months ago. If I run a jumper wire from the negative terminal on one of the front kick panel speakers to a negative output from the head unit, all the speakers start to work, though the head unit and the jumper wire gets hot. What in the world is going on here? Car is an 1986es.

          ETA: The car has a 6 wire fader in the it.

          Comment


            Throw up a picture...Im gonna have to write a better tutorial for early cars

            Closing SOON!
            "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

            Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

            Thanks for 10 years of fun!

            Comment


              No other reason to enter here besides THANK YOU, for this guide. It was initially very difficult to understand how everything tied together without actually looking in the dash, but once I got started and began clipping wires, it made 100% sense. Car sounds infinitely better now.
              '89 318i Touring
              '90 Miata

              Comment


                Originally posted by Heitzke View Post
                No other reason to enter here besides THANK YOU, for this guide. It was initially very difficult to understand how everything tied together without actually looking in the dash, but once I got started and began clipping wires, it made 100% sense. Car sounds infinitely better now.
                Right on, man...always makes me happy to be of help!

                Closing SOON!
                "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                Comment


                  Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                  Throw up a picture...Im gonna have to write a better tutorial for early cars
                  I gave up. I have a six wire fader and no grounds. I just finished up pulling all the speakers and running new OFC wire. I have a NIB pair of Pioneer 160W 6x9's that are going into the rear deck once I get the riser rings I ordered. I tested them out yesterday and it sounds 100X better then it did when it was working with the factory stuff. To be fair, since someone was in there messing around to install the Pioneer head unit that is in the car, who knows what they did to it.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Grackle View Post
                    I gave up. I have a six wire fader and no grounds. I just finished up pulling all the speakers and running new OFC wire. I have a NIB pair of Pioneer 160W 6x9's that are going into the rear deck once I get the riser rings I ordered. I tested them out yesterday and it sounds 100X better then it did when it was working with the factory stuff. To be fair, since someone was in there messing around to install the Pioneer head unit that is in the car, who knows what they did to it.
                    Yeah, that works...not ideal, but it works. There are so many different setups in these cars its crazy, glad you got through it!

                    Luke

                    Closing SOON!
                    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                    Comment


                      I am having problems installing a Pioneer head into a 1990 325i sedan.. Got the premium sound system (tweeters on doors and rear deck speakers) and followed the stickied guide, but have no sound.

                      I have attached two photos so maybe someone could shed some light on the issue for me. Thank you!



                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        Hey bobaflesh, I just went through this exact scenario a few days ago in a '90 with premium sound. It was a bit tedious but I got it right on the first try including the factory amp bypass. If you still need help with this, pm me, and I can walk you through it step by step on the phone tomorrow (Sunday) afternoon.
                        '93 300TE 24V Krautbomber
                        '84 528e 5 speed Saphirblau Metallic [R.I.P.]

                        I love all BMWs with round headlights!

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by KrautnotRice View Post
                          Hey bobaflesh, I just went through this exact scenario a few days ago in a '90 with premium sound. It was a bit tedious but I got it right on the first try including the factory amp bypass. If you still need help with this, pm me, and I can walk you through it step by step on the phone tomorrow (Sunday) afternoon.
                          Hey thank you so much! I will go ahead and try to bypass the amp per the sticky when I have some time. Will let you know.
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                            Another successful amp/fader bypass on my late model coupe. Many thanks to the OP and everyone else that assisted in making this thread what it is.

                            Now to hunt down the bad driver in the rear....

                            Comment


                              Took another crack at trying to figure out the wiring on my headunit and am honestly stumped. I only have the one white wire coming out of the dash (the one on my finger) which I assume would go to the remote on the headunit side.

                              If correct then this is the only wire I have left to connect and it should get rid of the miswire code.

                              89' 325ix Diamantschwarz/Black rattle can...

                              Insta: r_moose_w

                              Originally posted by flyboyx
                              I imagine her smelling like spoiled milk and having a half inch crust of doodoo circumnavigating her butthole.

                              Comment


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