Anyone selling a pair of switches that will work for this conversion (with wires)? I have 2 dr, so just need 2 good condition switches. PM me. Can you buy these at stealership with wires attached? If so, part number please. This may make a good xmas break project.
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DIY - E36 window switch retrofit
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostGuys, once again: 2 relays per window and a switch (yes, you can do the sunroof too) and you CAN use the small base (green) window switches.Originally posted by NicademusMy car beats off to that car. :bow:
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Thought, I'd contribute.
This DIY covers installations of e36 window switches into e30. Purpose? You’ll no longer will be popping your fingers in attempt to open or close windows. As an added bonus, they look great.
Parts Needed
1. e36 window switches with harnesses. (Blue or White base)
2. Ten (10 or 1 pack) of 14-16ga weatherproof butt connectors. $3
Tools Needed
1. Multimeter (optional)
2. Wire Cutters, Wire Stripper, Wire Crimp Tool
3. Dremel Kit or Files
4. Lighter
5. Flathead Screwdriver
6. Phillips Screwdriver
7. Marker
Let’s begin.
1. Removal
Personally, I enjoy working on things with enough space around work area, so there are a number of pieces I remove. Removing everything is not necessary.
1. Remove both ashtrays by opening them and lifting them straight up by the lid.
2. Remove rear part of center console by removing parking brake handle (pull and twist)and Parking Brake Boot. Then unscrew plastic 10mm nut located inside of rear ashtray location and remove center console.
3. Remove shifter console by removing shift knob (pull, away from your face) and unclipping shifter boot. With a flat-head screwdriver pull window switches and unplug them. Under dash center console is connected by two (2) clip-in flat-head screws (one on each side), turn them 90 degrees and pull them out. Under right side of HVAC panel, center console is held in by an 8mm self-tapping screw, remove it. Remove front ashtray holder by removing two (2) Phillips head screws behind assembly. Push it in and pull it up, unplug cigarette lighter and light. Remove 10mm plastic nut that sits right behind shifter. Pull center console up, and pull it back.
Removal of all this is UNNECESSARY. I had to do it, because I was relocating my window switches.
2. Preparing Center Console
1. Whether on or of the car, you’ll need dremel or files. Place e36 windows switch trim (black trim piece surrounding switch itself) against center console and with a marker draw an outline around it in places of your original switches (or in my case, anywhere you’d like your switches to be).
2. Dremel or file center console to outline and make sure switch trim fits in and covers hole.
3. Wiring
1. Cut original switch plugs off one wire at a time and space them out not to short out fuse.
2. Strip ends of each wire on the car and on e36 window switch harnesses.
3. Follow my hand written diagram bellow to color match wires. Test each switch before crimping them in.
4. Crimp and with a lighter shrink butt connections. Wrap wires with electrical tape.
Test switches. If switches nor sunroof respond, replace your Fuse 17, because you’ve blown it. Also note how long my wires are, that was done on purpose because I was relocating my switches to hand brake console.
4. Installation
1. Put everything back together in reverse process of removal. Enjoy not breaking fingers.
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Awesome. I was going to do a pin-out of my switches, but you took the cake.
I've got one-touch small white base switches though, the main difference is that it has a roll-down one-touch feature (secondary "down" switch position) where both up and down signals are asserted. It's annoying as unless I want to make a logic circuit for each switch I can only use the first "down" position.paint sucks
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Alright, so at least it worked for someone... because my 318iS has somewhat different colored wires.... and I got nothing. After enough trial and errors, I got nothing but blown fuses.
/frustration
I'll try to figure it out again tomorrow.
- ErickErick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
EurostopUSA | Dunlop Tires | Ireland Engineering | EnthusiastApparel | Ground Control
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :D
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Originally posted by Erick View PostAlright, so at least it worked for someone... because my 318iS has somewhat different colored wires.... and I got nothing. After enough trial and errors, I got nothing but blown fuses.
/frustration
I'll try to figure it out again tomorrow.
- Erickpaint sucks
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My findings so far
Originally posted by Aptyp View PostThought, I'd contribute.
Following Aptyp's diagram, the only thing I get when I turn the car on is that the window will automatically go up (my windows were down). The switches are completely non-responsive. I have four switches and tried two of them out, neither one changed the result.
I'm using blue base switches. I'll see if I can find something else in it... maybe someone already covered this 318iS different color dilemma here.
I'm going to the 318iS right now to resume this and see if I can figure it out.
- ErickErick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
EurostopUSA | Dunlop Tires | Ireland Engineering | EnthusiastApparel | Ground Control
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :D
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Alright so I spent about two hours on trial and errors and got nowhere.
First of all, I checked my '89 325i. The 325i has the same wiring harness colors as the 318iS, which do not match entirely what you have. It's not by much, but it's definately different.
Left switch wires: (Port # / Color)
1 Black
3 Green/Gray
4 Brown
5 Brown
8 Violet
Right switch:
1 Black/Gray
3 Green/Gray
4 Brown
5 Brown
8 Violet/Gray
Now, if you put this alongside your hand written schematics, it's not too hard to guess where the colors go since what has any black in it would mix with the solid black, and what has any violet in it would mix with the violets/blues.
Well, in that scenario, I did not blow any fuses, but I also got it all mixed up. With both windows down, when you power the car, the left window will start going up automatically. The passenger window will go up when you press the DOWN button. All other commands are unresponsive. None of the switches light up either.
I mixed and matched the + wires on your diagram and blew some fuses (which is making me think one of those you mentioned might be a ground), but there was one other combination (which I didn't write down) that didn't blow a fuse. But at that point, no commands were responsive either, hence why I didn't bother writing it down.
Now, switch must be bad right? It happened with all four switches I have in my possession.
Maybe he base is bad? Nope. I wired the switch straight to the harness (no base) and still nothing.
So right now I'm somewhat lost with no idea what's going on. Any ideas or suggestions appreciated.Erick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
EurostopUSA | Dunlop Tires | Ireland Engineering | EnthusiastApparel | Ground Control
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :D
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Originally posted by 87e30 View PostSo no one has made the small based switches auto down feature work?
Seems odd to me...
When you press the "Up" button, the up wire goes to ground,so no biggie to trigger a relay...but when the second stage (1 touch mode) is triggered, the down wire goes to ground.
I really want this to work in my car, so I might grab an E36 body control module and wire it in.
I would rather do it with all aftermarket stuff though.
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostThe switches have some bizarre character issues.
When you press the "Up" button, the up wire goes to ground,so no biggie to trigger a relay...but when the second stage (1 touch mode) is triggered, the down wire goes to ground.
I really want this to work in my car, so I might grab an E36 body control module and wire it in.
I would rather do it with all aftermarket stuff though.
If you want a car to practice on I'm close by. :DOriginally posted by z31maniacI just hate everyone.
No need for discretion.
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