How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[jeffnhiscars]

You can accomplish exactly the same thing by repositioning the steering wheel (60 seconds in the drivers seat) or the knuckle (PITA contortions lying under your car).

You pick.

[Jim Lepage]

I used a screw driver to pry open the upper knuckle clamp from the steering column shaft. It is shown in step 14 of the write up. I don't think you have to remove the upper knuckle bolt all the way(no bolt groove in the steering column shaft), but it may be easier to remove with it completely out of the way if you haven't done so already.

I already pryed it and the bolt isn't there anymore. :???:

[skankbot]

I used a screw driver to pry open the upper knuckle clamp from the steering column shaft. It is shown in step 14 of the write up. I don't think you have to remove the upper knuckle bolt all the way(no bolt groove in the steering column shaft), but it may be easier to remove with it completely out of the way if you haven't done so already.

[Jim Lepage]

What's the best way to remove the knuckle from the steering column ? I tried by prying, heating, PB Blasting, knocking, swearing...

It doesn't move. I can mod it in place but I'd prefer to do it in my shop.

[davem]

Mine was a little off too. It was straight after i got it aligned

yeah i just got it aligned today and it's still off :/ didn't have this issues last time.

[SoEm0]

Mine was a little off too. It was straight after i got it aligned

[davem]

ok so just did e36 rack re and re again after the first rack i put it in started leaking. I cant get the steering wheel to sit perfectly straight when the wheels are pointed straight - i've removed and reintalled the wheel on one spline left and right... i guess i need to take the knuckle off and move it over one spline as well to adjust for the tiny difference? The car has been aligned.

[Karmageddon]

Thanks

As for the rest of the questions, right after I asked someone explained the situation to me.

[SoEm0]

Yeah if you get a e36 rack it should come with inner tie rods. You can get some e36 outer tie rods and make sure you get the e36 lock sleeves. Then your good to go

[Karmageddon]

[new guy question ahead]

My car just got checked out by a dealer (ugh) and they have suggested I replace

Right front inner tie rod end (has play) - Price $Arm + tax
Left front outer tie rod end (has play) - Price $Leg + tax
Left front lower ball joint (has play)- Price $First born +tax (its all theirs)

I'm having trouble working out what is going on. If I replace my steering rack with an e36 rack can I use the e36 tie rods that come with it? I'm looking at the picture of the e30 steering rack on Realoem.com but I'm getting confused on what the dealership calls "inner/outer tie rod end" and they mention ball joints, where as realoem call the tie rod a collection of things including the balljoint.

If I was to replace my steering rack, would getting a e36 steering rack with tie rod ends solve the problems my dealer says my car has? If not, why. If I am replacing one tie rod end is it a good idea to replace both sides? Or do I have some terminology wrong and is that confusing the fuck outta me.


[Edit] Questions answered problems solved.

thanks

[chrisnxl185]

i'm in the middle of swapping in a regular e36 rack and had a new idea of a way to shorten the steering joint.

Could you remove the steering guibo to shorten the joint. might need some small spacers in there to get the length just right. see pictures



Has anyone tried this before? This method retains the joint's ability to compress and removes any flexibility from the rubber part hence improving steering feel.

My only concerns are:
-can i shorten the joint enough?
-do the u-joints need to be offset 90 degrees from each other?

Any thoughts?

Turns out, for proper u-joint alignment, they do need to be offset 90 degrees. To solve this, I got a beefy washer and put it in the same location as the guibo. I ordered the washer from McMaster
Washer: 98026A039
Bolts: 97135A235
Nuts: 92620A655




I've been driving around with this set up for 7 months now. No problems!

[Landrunner]

So I have had a rebuilt ZF E36 M3 rack in my car for a few months now and I have had the car aligned, the knuckle adjusted several times, and I still experience slow or no steering return when moving the wheel 20 to 30 degrees in either direction. Is this normal? Brand new steering pump, all new lines, new tie rods and control arms. The car is a 1990 325i with airbag.

[davem]

Ok so I searched and could not find the answer. I got the 3.2 e36 rack and it came with the e36 knuckle. Can I use that knuckle or do I need to mod and use the e30 knuckle? Sorry if this has been asked before.

read this thread starting from page one, explains everything

you need to modify your e30 knuckle if your e30 is didn't come with a air bag from the factory, throw the e36 knuckle away

[russll5951]

Ok so I searched and could not find the answer. I got the 3.2 e36 rack and it came with the e36 knuckle. Can I use that knuckle or do I need to mod and use the e30 knuckle? Sorry if this has been asked before.

[treff-7]

well you have a lot less leverage going from 4.0 turns lock-to-lock to 2.7 so that's why you need to give more effort to turn the wheel. I just did the normal e36 rack (3.2 turns lock-to-lockand it's not stiffer).

it gets stiffer but not only because of the ratio change but also because the e36 power steering works on a higher pressure than the e30 one. it was designed for it so it feels heavier on lower pressure.