Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Did you flip your knuckle upside down ?

    If you look at the end that goes on the rack you can see the bolt interferes with the axis of the spline so it locks in to that groove whereas on the top end the bolt strictly clamps and does not break thru the inner surface of the knuckle.

    Just sayin' :pimp:

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Okay... that's still great advice. That is the groove I need to get the knuckle over right below it. I am gonna go back tomorrow and try to get it on down. And then just try and tighten the lock nut down as hard as I can on the column spline. I thought I was gonna have an extra hand on this project but He was a no show and some of this junk is hard by yourself.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Originally posted by MattBimmer View Post
    Here is a picture of the knuckle. [ATTACH]56985[/ATTACH]
    Matt,

    Do you have 2 grooves on the rack ? I've done 2 swaps and the racks only had 1 so I think you have to slide the knuckle down further so the bolt sits in that groove. Do the upper end after that since it can clamp at any point on the column splines.

    Both my swaps were on non-airbag cars so I don't want to give you bad advice but something doesn't seem right with your steering column. You are just modifying the shaft angle slightly but not changing the knuckle length as I did so this should all go back together without fuss. Do try to leave a bit of angle to the knuckle so the u joints let the knuckle "stretch" as things flex & rotate.

    As for the spacers, mine are on top as well. You can worry about bump steer when you road test it.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Here is a picture of the knuckle. Click image for larger version

Name:	rack and knuckle.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	64.0 KB
ID:	7143911

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Is this right?

    Okay so I have a spacer in ABOVE the rack... from what I have read it helps eliminate bump steer this way.... I had this spline on the steering column come all the way out earlier... I have put it back in but I am hesitant because it makes me wonder how much I have inside the steering column tube and I dont want the knuckle or the tube to break free while driving. Can you say catostrosphic crash lol.
    But I need more of the knuckle onto the rack's spline as well.

    MAIN Question does anyones elses AIRBAG car look like this at the end of the column spline/ if not what can I do to extend the column to the knuckle. (risk bump steer and put washers below?)

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    So I have the new rack in... spacers etc. The knuckle is perfectly straight to the rack spline. (I have airbags) but the knuckle only has made it to the first groove on the spline not all the way down and hasbstopped. But the spline that is inside the tube that connects the steering wheel to the column (interior) is showing quite a bit. Like to the point looks as if it is almost coming out pics soon driving my dd home now.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Alirght thanks for the input, sorry between ordering the new tie rods,work, moving, and trying to do all this on my own... it is taking awhile. I am grinding the firewall today.

    Leave a comment:


  • davem
    replied
    hp line goes from the top of the pump to rack, so check whether the pump takes the larger/smaller bolt.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Originally posted by MattBimmer View Post
    Hey guys I couldn't really tell by the pictures which is the High pressure PS line. The one with all the coils and has the 22mm bolt or the 19mm banjo bolt line.
    Matt,..of course there is too much junk in my engine comp for me to actually look but it sure looks like the HP side is the smaller of the 2 banjo's. The larger banjos (#7) have hose clamps and go to the reservoir via hoses 11 &12 so that makes sense.



    get this done already, will ya ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Hey guys I couldn't really tell by the pictures which is the High pressure PS line. The one with all the coils and has the 22mm bolt or the 19mm banjo bolt line.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Originally posted by MattBimmer View Post
    Also I thought a good way to remove the spline from the knuckle is have a friend hold the rack and gently tap with a pickle fork.
    There's too much space between the rack body and the knuckle for a pickle fork to be much good and you absolutely do not want to risk damaging the splines. Remove the locking bolt completely (remember it locks in to a groove on the rack shaft) and drive a screwdriver in to the split in the knuckle to spread it. Then drive it off gently with a drift.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Also I thought a good way to remove the spline from the knuckle is have a friend hold the rack and gently tap with a pickle fork.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Guys I need help stat. Need my car back on the ground ASAP and I need the outer tie rod lock sleeves. I cant find them anywhere. What exactly is it too?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim Lepage
    replied
    I did the same setup than chrisnxl185.

    Leave a comment:


  • M3PO
    replied
    When I pulled my rack from a 95 M3, I took the entire knuckle assembly. Can I use the complete M3 knuckle instead of modifying my E30 knuckle?

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X