How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[russll5951]

Ok so I searched and could not find the answer. I got the 3.2 e36 rack and it came with the e36 knuckle. Can I use that knuckle or do I need to mod and use the e30 knuckle? Sorry if this has been asked before.

[treff-7]

well you have a lot less leverage going from 4.0 turns lock-to-lock to 2.7 so that's why you need to give more effort to turn the wheel. I just did the normal e36 rack (3.2 turns lock-to-lockand it's not stiffer).

it gets stiffer but not only because of the ratio change but also because the e36 power steering works on a higher pressure than the e30 one. it was designed for it so it feels heavier on lower pressure.

[defaultName]

Last Friday I swapped in a Z3 steering rack.

Everything went pretty smoothly and there looked to be barely any binding in the steering knuckle.

The problem's started happening when I drove it. I didn't really have an issue with binding so much as the car pulling violently left and right. It fells as if someone is jerking on the steering wheel. I would turn the steering wheel very slightly and then it would continue to turn on its own until it locks

I put the car back in the garage and tried to grind down the steering knuckle but it didn't feel or look like it was binding very much so I wasn't sure how much to really remove. I drove the car again and it didn't feel much better at all.

I'm really not sure what could be causing this. Would a binding steering knuckle cause the car to pull from side to side, because I thought it would make it harder to turn?

I even tried to check if my tie rods were touching my wheel but there seems to be enough room. Power steering has been deleted as well.

I just wanted to follow up on this.

I had an alignment done on the car and it fixed all of the problems I was having.

[davem]

now that i'm all done with this swap...

Steering is much more weighted and stiff compared to the e30 4.0 lock to lock rack.

For those moving from a stock e30 -> z3 2.7 rack, did your steering get stiffer?

well you have a lot less leverage going from 4.0 turns lock-to-lock to 2.7 so that's why you need to give more effort to turn the wheel. I just did the normal e36 rack (3.2 turns lock-to-lockand it's not stiffer).

[inwoo]

now that i'm all done with this swap...

Steering is much more weighted and stiff compared to the e30 4.0 lock to lock rack.

For those moving from a stock e30 -> z3 2.7 rack, did your steering get stiffer?

[davem]

here's a pic that a fellow r3ver (nickname: Goose) took that demonstrates how to route a stock e30 HP line with a z3 rack - no bending of the fittings required, just flipped:

[Gary Horneck]

Great upgrade! Much more fun Autocross steering. I am using 1/8" toe out, and the E36 tie rod set.

[Landrunner]

likely toe, CAB mounts control caster and unless you have camber plates it's non-adjustable on an e30

Recommended toe setting?

[ScHpAnKy]

what kind of alignment specs are you guys going with to delete this slow (or non existent in some spots) return problem? toe? caster? camber?

likely toe, CAB mounts control caster and unless you have camber plates it's non-adjustable on an e30

[Landrunner]

what kind of alignment specs are you guys going with to delete this slow (or non existent in some spots) return problem? toe? caster? camber?

[ScHpAnKy]

Ya I had an alignment and it deleted the slow return problem I had. But the issue regarding the inline instability feels like its something else. Feels like something is loose but ive been through the setup three times and checked through everything to ensure it was done right.

I'm also getting this, but haven't done a proper alignment yet - although, my iX with 4x4 and no alignment doesn't jerk the steering around like this thing is doing.

Like, seriously, wtf?

Also, what are you guys with this problem running for tie rods? I'm using the E36 ones.

[ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD]

Ya I had an alignment and it deleted the slow return problem I had. But the issue regarding the inline instability feels like its something else. Feels like something is loose but ive been through the setup three times and checked through everything to ensure it was done right.

[defaultName]

^ this is also the problem I am having, only not to this extreme. I thin it might have to do with one of the adjustment bolts on the bottom of the rack. I have yet to do research but I'll share if I find anything. Does anybody know what that 17mm bolt does on the front side of the rack?

Have you had a proper alignment done after your swap?

I have had 2 people suggest that it is poor alignment causing the problem.

[inwoo]

Hi everyone... I'm getting ready to do this mod, and i have a question that i don't believe was answered yet.

What's the best way to grind out the firewall area without removing the engine? Should i go from the bottom or from the top? Should i remove the brake booster?

Is it easy to get to that area to grind out?

[ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD]

^ this is also the problem I am having, only not to this extreme. I thin it might have to do with one of the adjustment bolts on the bottom of the rack. I have yet to do research but I'll share if I find anything. Does anybody know what that 17mm bolt does on the front side of the rack?