How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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  • irish44j
    replied
    got my e36 rack all installed (after much cursing) with the spacers, etc.

    Now my steering feels heavy and doesn't return well to center.

    The e36 rack has TWO big bolts on the bottom:

    One is a 22mm flat head, which apparently adjusts lash. It was tight when I got the rack, and once loosened at all it gets REAL loose (like, turn-by-hand loose).

    Also there is a 2nd bolt, about 45* around the rack directly above it. It's a smaller (17mm) nut with a circle around it and little tick marks. This bolt is not present on an e30 rack. Any ideas as to what it is for? Centering position perhaps?

    Anyhow, the car is driveable, and the steering quicker, but it definitely feels heavy and doesn't return well to center....

    suggestions?

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  • davem
    replied
    Originally posted by ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD
    I had the same problem when I did mine. I ended up drilling the smaller side out to fit the bigger side just to avoid problems. I don't know why this problem exists but it's a small one that can be moved around.
    ya i never came across any need for drilling in any diys i read so i was a little confused...

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  • ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD
    replied
    Originally posted by mbc325
    Mine was like this. I adjusted the steering lash (big bolt i think 22mm? on the bottom of the rack) and it acts like normal now. Just a very slight adjustment was needed.
    What is this adjustment you speak of? I had that slow return problem until I got an alignment but for some reason now I have an incredible amount of bump steer especially in high speed turns. How does this adjustment operate and what direction did you spin?

    Leave a comment:


  • ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD
    replied
    Originally posted by davem
    So i have a spare steering knuckle that i had a friend grind off the rivets for me. I ordered the e30tech spacer and hardware set and the bolts don't slip through one side of the steering knuckle. It's like the holes in one end are smaller...but i see no mention of drill/elongating the holes???
    I had the same problem when I did mine. I ended up drilling the smaller side out to fit the bigger side just to avoid problems. I don't know why this problem exists but it's a small one that can be moved around.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aahj
    replied
    They fit, just have to play with them like puzzle pieces. Need to be arranged in a certain order to fit together. Don't remember how I did it off the top of my head though, sorry. But it can be done!

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  • davem
    replied
    So i have a spare steering knuckle that i had a friend grind off the rivets for me. I ordered the e30tech spacer and hardware set and the bolts don't slip through one side of the steering knuckle. It's like the holes in one end are smaller...but i see no mention of drill/elongating the holes???

    Leave a comment:


  • cobraken
    replied
    Originally posted by drumad
    You're probably better off getting new ones. They're cheap insurance.
    Or you can try Locktight!

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  • drumad
    replied
    You're probably better off getting new ones. They're cheap insurance.

    Leave a comment:


  • irish44j
    replied
    can the lockplate for the inner tierod ends be re-used once removed, or do they have to be replaced with new ones? Going to tackle this sooner or later. The e36 rack sitting on my workbench is calling to me......

    Leave a comment:


  • mbc325
    replied
    I'd recommend buying a new reservoir just because theres a nonreplacable filter inside of them. No use running a dirty filter on a new rack.

    I tried using a e36 high pressure line but honestly it was harder to fit than the e30 one with a slight bend.

    Leave a comment:


  • mbc325
    replied
    Originally posted by Landrunner
    Just had this done, what a difference! I did a new steering yoke, refurbished e36 rack, new steering pump, all new lines, and a new reservoir. It takes a tiny bit of driver input to get the steering wheel to center after a light turn, nothing crazy. Is this normal?
    Mine was like this. I adjusted the steering lash (big bolt i think 22mm? on the bottom of the rack) and it acts like normal now. Just a very slight adjustment was needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobraken
    replied
    i couldnt use the same oem hi pressure line, i had to get a custom line done.

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  • bmwcalvin
    replied
    Originally posted by xikyle
    what i want to know is do i REALLY have to replace the High pressure lines and the resevoir? or can i get by with what the little monster came with?
    You can keep the lines you have, but you'll have to bend them a little to make it bolt flush on to the rack. As long as nothing was leaking before you should be fine. I ended up buying a new reservoir since mine was leaking...

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  • Jacksontheogre
    replied
    i have been able to find every part but the low pressure line anyone have a part number or a link?

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  • Landrunner
    replied
    Originally posted by Aahj
    Just put mine in today, does the same thing as well and seems like they make the racks a tad tight when they rebuild them. I'll give it a few weeks for it to break in and see if it helps at all.
    Cool, glad I'm not the only one to experience this. I figured that with all new steering components it'd be a tad tight, after visually inspecting the u joint, it's straight as an arrow and moving freely do the mild lack of return action must be due to the freshly rebuilt rack. Keep us posted!

    Leave a comment:

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