got my e36 rack all installed (after much cursing) with the spacers, etc.
Now my steering feels heavy and doesn't return well to center.
The e36 rack has TWO big bolts on the bottom:
One is a 22mm flat head, which apparently adjusts lash. It was tight when I got the rack, and once loosened at all it gets REAL loose (like, turn-by-hand loose).
Also there is a 2nd bolt, about 45* around the rack directly above it. It's a smaller (17mm) nut with a circle around it and little tick marks. This bolt is not present on an e30 rack. Any ideas as to what it is for? Centering position perhaps?
Anyhow, the car is driveable, and the steering quicker, but it definitely feels heavy and doesn't return well to center....
suggestions?
How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap
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ya i never came across any need for drilling in any diys i read so i was a little confused...Leave a comment:
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What is this adjustment you speak of? I had that slow return problem until I got an alignment but for some reason now I have an incredible amount of bump steer especially in high speed turns. How does this adjustment operate and what direction did you spin?Leave a comment:
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So i have a spare steering knuckle that i had a friend grind off the rivets for me. I ordered the e30tech spacer and hardware set and the bolts don't slip through one side of the steering knuckle. It's like the holes in one end are smaller...but i see no mention of drill/elongating the holes???Leave a comment:
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They fit, just have to play with them like puzzle pieces. Need to be arranged in a certain order to fit together. Don't remember how I did it off the top of my head though, sorry. But it can be done!Leave a comment:
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So i have a spare steering knuckle that i had a friend grind off the rivets for me. I ordered the e30tech spacer and hardware set and the bolts don't slip through one side of the steering knuckle. It's like the holes in one end are smaller...but i see no mention of drill/elongating the holes???Leave a comment:
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You're probably better off getting new ones. They're cheap insurance.Leave a comment:
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can the lockplate for the inner tierod ends be re-used once removed, or do they have to be replaced with new ones? Going to tackle this sooner or later. The e36 rack sitting on my workbench is calling to me......Leave a comment:
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I'd recommend buying a new reservoir just because theres a nonreplacable filter inside of them. No use running a dirty filter on a new rack.
I tried using a e36 high pressure line but honestly it was harder to fit than the e30 one with a slight bend.Leave a comment:
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Mine was like this. I adjusted the steering lash (big bolt i think 22mm? on the bottom of the rack) and it acts like normal now. Just a very slight adjustment was needed.Leave a comment:
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i couldnt use the same oem hi pressure line, i had to get a custom line done.Leave a comment:
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You can keep the lines you have, but you'll have to bend them a little to make it bolt flush on to the rack. As long as nothing was leaking before you should be fine. I ended up buying a new reservoir since mine was leaking...Leave a comment:
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i have been able to find every part but the low pressure line anyone have a part number or a link?Leave a comment:
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Cool, glad I'm not the only one to experience this. I figured that with all new steering components it'd be a tad tight, after visually inspecting the u joint, it's straight as an arrow and moving freely do the mild lack of return action must be due to the freshly rebuilt rack. Keep us posted!Leave a comment:
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