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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

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    #46
    If the valve is not working, than it is either allowing coolant to pass through the core all the time giving you heat when the fan is on regardless of the temp position or if the valve is stuck closed you would not have heat.

    Try removing the drivers side knee bolster and center console and let it warm up and try feeling the line before and aft of the valve to see that coolant is flowing to it and through it. It might be that the valve is just unplugged, or it may be just your temp switch is not functioning correctly.


    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657387

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      #47
      Access to lower fan box?

      Nice description of heater core removal. Do you recall if you have access to removing the plastic box that the blower motor sits in? Mine is broken up after a front end collision and I need to replace it. I assumed I needed to talk off the dash, but if you can get the heater core out without dash removal, then I wonder about the fan box. Thanks!

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        #48
        Fan box is part of the heater / ac box. You can't get that out w/o removing the dash. You can replace the blower fan, resistor and outer fan cover from the engine compartment side though.

        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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          #49
          does anybody have pics of replacing the blower fan?
          sigpic

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            #50
            You undo the two plastic straps, remove the cover, undo one metal strap holding the motor, disconnect the two wires, and pull the motor out.

            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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              #51
              Wow what a great thread...Its very reassuring that this job isnt as much of a bitch as my 92 jetta was...

              So I have one question, my heat doesnt seen to blow hot, its slightly warm after running the car up to temp, but not anywhere close to being hot. Could this be from a tired heater core? I live in a winter environment and like to have heat, not just luke warm air...

              Thanks,
              R

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                #52
                single wire on the heater valve

                I also have issue of not having heat in my car. But I noticed there is a single wire connected to the heater valve. By unpluging this wire, will the valve open and let the hot water to the heater core or shuts it off and closed the valve so no hot water? I just want some kind of heat or luke warm air. I drove to the Bay Area last week and I froze. Any 411 would be great. thanks guys and Happy New Year.

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                  #53
                  best 7 bucks I ever spent at the pick your part (heater valve) It was all open already so I took the valve and the metel pipes, 30 minutes later I had heat, real fuckin heat. muy caliente
                  harry/harout

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                    #54
                    fuck this shit. spent hours removing the core/valve from both my vert and coupe.

                    so I pieced together what I figured what were the best parts. the valve from my vert, and the core from my coupe. followed all the steps oiled the o-rings and what not. and nothing no heat and there is still a leak from here:


                    so I took the heater core from my vert too. tried it again, same thing but this time I am hearing noise from both the valve and core. I think I just need a new valve and orings and pipes, but im broke.

                    how do you test the heater core... I have 2 and I think they both work but I am not sure. is there any way to test the valve as well?

                    any other suggestions as to why I am repeatedly getting a leak from that specific spot after trying different valves/cores? I thought maybe it was because the oring wasnt snug or something so I took it out again and made sure everything was flush...still leaking...could it be the pipes or o-rings? I picked the best pipes and sanded um a bit and cleaned them up too
                    Tbolt Division

                    All I'm saying dude is that bird law in this country...it's not governed by reason.

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                      #55
                      the heater core in my car just blew 2 days ago i bypassed it with a (u)-shaped section of heater hose. but before it went i had the same problem as some of the other guys on here, it would blow warm for a few minutes then would just blow room temp air. could my problem have been the valve???


                      tia
                      josh

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                        #56
                        Heater core is like a small radiator, if it's clogged you should be able to figure it out. Valve you can test with 12 volts, apply power to it and see if it opens/closes. If it's leaking at the connection, maybe you pinched the o-ring? Is the surface flat w/o any damage?
                        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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                          #57
                          so i took my interior apart in order to get ready to switch to a new heater core, but i havent ordered one yet.

                          but im wondering if its ok for me to take the broken one out if i dont plan on getting a new one for a week or 2?

                          any reason why i should just wait to have the new one before doing so?

                          and im wondering if i need to replace the valve aswell or if its possible my problem is just the valve and my heater core is still good. anyone know how i could tell whats the cause of my problem.

                          i leak coolant like crazy from right below the heater core onto my driveway and my driver side carpet is soaked aswell.

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                            #58
                            My 90 vert pissed coolent all over the drivers carpet--close inspection showed it was leaking above the core---and it appears to be from the valve. I turned the heater control on for the first time in months and it started leaking almost immediatley---so I'm off to pull-a-part for an el-cheapo valve. the valve is plastic housing on metal base which I suspect to be the problem---. If you look really close you should be able to see just where that anti-freeze is coming from. Will grab some extra square nuts just for backup---and maybe the metal pipes if easy. Not fun pulling carpet, drivers seat, console, lower dash, etc. for a simple heater valve---ug! Will also pick up some new o rings to be safe. Will update upon completion or partout!!!!!!
                            Always looking for Honda Trail 70 or mini trail z50

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                              #59
                              You can remove the heater core/valve and just connect the two hoses near the firewall together to by-pass the whole thing for the time being.
                              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by Jean View Post
                                You can remove the heater core/valve and just connect the two hoses near the firewall together to by-pass the whole thing for the time being.

                                thanks, im kinda new to the whole DIY part of working on cars. if i do the by-pass thing, is there a way to test to find the exact spot of the leak or should i test for that first and then do the by-pass?

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