Closed loop idle tuning

[E30_Beau]

Hi all,

Just chasing some advice, my car isn't starting on closed loop unless i have my foot on the accelerator. Now i was going though the setting and the idle valve duty% both open and closed look like they are set pretty low. Would that be what is stopping the car from starting and getting to idle or do i need to look at some other setting to sort this out?

[Jaxx_]

Under the startup/idle menu, you need to open the idle cranking duty/steps table. Raise the cranking duty for your affected CLTs.

[E30_Beau]

okay, sorry i didn't explain that very well. The car turns over and the catches but without any throttle input it only lasts for a second then stalls out straight away.

[Digitalwave]

Is the idle already 100% tuned on open loop?

[E30_Beau]

yeah i guess so, after it leaves the warmup period it holds its idle well and doesn't seem to be running rich or anything.

[Jaxx_]

have you tried more ASE?

[e30davie]

there are some good guides around setting the idle valves.

generally speaking this is how i think you do,

-figure out what % it idles at when its stone cold and at elevated rpm (~1200 or whatever) - the stone cold one is your "open duty"
-Figure out what % it idles at when its at operating temp. - the operating temp is your "closed duty"


have you changed any of these numbers? raising the "open duty" might help your issue.

[nando]

if it's dying after starting, that's probably not ICV tuning. Most likely your ASE curve is not enough - or your CLT/IAT curves are not well calibrated.

A poorly tuned ICV will not die, but the idle with fluctuate, especially while cold.

[E30_Beau]

Okay it turns out it was the idle duty % was the problem. They were set way to low so I've adjusted them both and now she is all sweet.