Miller W.A.R. Machine

[brody]

The stock regulator is fine. I have a feeling he might be running rich up top, not lean... Too rich will rob power.

However a FPR is a maintenance item, so if you were going to buy a replacement an adjustable FPR would be good to have. It just gives that much more control.

[iwantspeed]

Dan, thank you for your thurough review! One of the thins about your top end is that the smoother more consistent power band can and does play tricks with your mind. If you can get on a dyno and do a baseline, see where your fuel is at if it off at all. Every car we just bolt this kit on locally, puts down about 165 to 170 ( up from 140 to 145 ) with the "off the shelf" software. If they choose a custom tune they usually pick up another 5 - 8 hp.

If you hop on a dyno soon let me know and I will help you with the tune free if need be.

in this case would it be wise for this customer to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is the stock 3.0 bar fpr sufficient?

[brody]

Dan, thank you for your thurough review! One of the thins about your top end is that the smoother more consistent power band can and does play tricks with your mind. If you can get on a dyno and do a baseline, see where your fuel is at if it off at all. Every car we just bolt this kit on locally, puts down about 165 to 170 ( up from 140 to 145 ) with the "off the shelf" software. If they choose a custom tune they usually pick up another 5 - 8 hp.

If you hop on a dyno soon let me know and I will help you with the tune free if need be.

[eugeman]

does any one do a M30 BBTB i.e. something bigger than 64mm?

Hey Doug, I know of reputable BMW BBTB machinist and have all of his contact info on my computer at work. PM me for details.

[Reeves]

Well I've had the kit for about a week now and I'd like to give a more refined and comprehensive review..

The first thing I noticed on my initial test drive, which instantly put a big smile on my face, was the low end response and power improvements. I don't have to string the engine out to 3-4k in order to pass people are get the car to move anymore.. I have power even below 2k now, which has definitely changed my daily driving style as I'm changing gears a good bit earlier now as I don't need to go past 3k to move.

The second thing I noticed was the smoothness. I've taken a good bit of weight out of the car, I have no carpets (I don't recommend this :p), and I've removed the AC and power steering, so my car reacts a lot more to the engine and power train. It shifts a lot better now.. It used to feel "clunky" when shifting, but now the power is right where I want it which gives me much smoother shifts, especially in lower RPM's. The powerband is also much smoother, especially leading up to 3k and past 4k. I've heard a lot of people say that the MAF makes the car drive more like a modern car, and I definitely feel the same way.

The third thing I noticed was the sound improvement. I didn't really expect much here, but man holy crap this thing sounds way meaner now. Sounds normal when driving slowly or just cruising (other than a bit of a suction and chirp when you get on and off the throttle :-o) but when you get past 4k and go WOT it just sounds like it's opened up.. My brother who doesn't know much about cars at all commented that it sounds like a muscle car now where as before it sounded like a small car trying to go fast :rofl:

As far as power improvements go, like I said I've definitely gained quite a bit more low end power, but as far as the top end goes, I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I didn't gain much or even anything at all. It seems to get up to speed quickly, but It used to pull top end and now it has such a smooth transition throughout the RPM range that it really doesn't feel like it pulls any harder at all. It actually feels like something is holding it back, like it's being choked, like it's plateauing too early, especially around 5k and up. I was definitely expecting more top end.

I will say I haven't had an ignition tune up since I've owned the car (other than plugs) and I'm a bit wary about my fuel supply(which is my main suspicion, I might not be getting enough fuel top end and be leaning out).. But the car has always been pretty smooth and has ran very well (other than a burbling idle and a bit of a random miss on idle, mainly when it's cold, despite a recent and well done valve adjustment) and if anything is off I really doubt it is by much. I've also not had the car dyno'd or properly tuned, so there could be a lot to gain there or at the very least it should give me some insight as to what is going on and some WHP #'s. Maybe my car just doesn't take to the supplied base tune Miller provided very well.

As far as installation and fitment goes everything went pretty smoothly despite all the little variances in different e30's. I had to re-rout the throttle body coolant lines which was pretty easily done, and I had to adjust the charcoal canister a bit (had to push it down and turn it a bit so the vacuum lines were pointing in another direction instead of directly onto the PSIK). The splash guard provided doesn't fit on my car, I believe this is due to the fact that I don't have an engine splash guard installed on my car and I think the splash guard provided bolts onto the stock plastic guard. I've ordered a used splash guard from a guy here on r3v and it should come next week, but this is where things seem they are going to get a little tricky.

My car, an 87' 325is, came with an extended splash guard that extends the whole width of the car and up into the wheel wells a bit (different than the ones seen on the cars brody posted pictures of), which will encase the PSIK filter perfectly without even needing the provided splash guard.. But I'm unsure if it is going to fit.. The filter looks like it is going to be pushing up against the plastic engine splash guard at the very least, and it may not even fit at all.. I'm pretty confident that worst case scenario I can modify it somehow, I mean the engine splash guard is thin plastic so I gotta be able to bend it or something, but we'll just have to see.

So overall It was a pretty big change on my car in a lot of areas and I'd say it was worth it. With a proper tune and maybe a bit of a tune up I'm hoping to fix my top end "problem". We'll see ;)

I'd also like to add that wow this was pretty long.. Which sucks because r3v cleared it all when I had to log in AGAIN to reply and I had to type it all again!!

[Dark Helmet]

not installed yet... didn't have time to jack car up and get the job done before the game started...

[LowR3V'in]

Brody, your instructions need to say "unless the car is at stock ride height, you MUST jack up the car."

and dang I got a mess of plumbing and wiring to reroute... however, so far very pleased with the quality...

Pictures of it installed ?

[digger]

The adapter comes with some other hardware related to nicely routing the throttle cable. However, the cable is not included. We suggest using the throttle cable from an e34 540.

does any one do a M30 BBTB i.e. something bigger than 64mm?

[Dark Helmet]

Brody, your instructions need to say "unless the car is at stock ride height, you MUST jack up the car."

and dang I got a mess of plumbing and wiring to reroute... however, so far very pleased with the quality...



note & edit: re-routing of stuff due to modifications from previous owner (set up for MS) and the fact I still haven't completely reassembled it since the head gasket job...

[nando]

the M30 3 pin and e30 3 pin TPS's are the same...

[Reeves]

I didn't leave it open for too long, but it was a pure stream of coolant, no air. Bled the hell out of it yesterday with the car on and trying all sorts of tricks and I'm about 95% certain that I got at least most of the air out of the system. I didn't even lose much coolant when re routing the throttle body coolant hoses, so it really can't be an air pocket..

The lower heater hose is hot and the upper is cold so I'm thinking the heater switch or whatever went out. I do seem to get warm air though, so maybe the valve is only opening up partially or something..

[brody]

I bleed with the car on yes. It can be a little messy but it always works. Did you lose that much coolant?

The TB is the right one, but you have an auto TPS. If you have a manual trans. you'll have to find the m30 tps that is a square 3 pin plug.

[Reeves]

Just got back from the junkyard.. Got a new valve cover to replace my newly found cracked valve cover, and found an M30 throttle body off of a 92 735iL..

Is that the right one? It has a round 6 pin connector for the TPS and I don't see an opening for the valve cover breather hose. Ill get some pics when I can.

Also, dammit, ever since I rerouted the throttle body coolant lines to fit the PSIK, I have no heat from my heater.. I've bled and bled and bled, with the front of the car jacked up and all, but no air is coming out.. Should I be bleeding with the car on? I see people say do it with the car on but that just pushes a bunch of coolant out..

[brody]

is it an issue with cable length, or ????

Yes it is a length/aesthetics issue. Instead of having a harsh kink or something no so pretty, it give it enough length to swoop around smoothly so to speak.

[Dark Helmet]

is it an issue with cable length, or ????