Cutout at 5600 rpm MS2

[nando]

yeah, I was just confirming, because I'd bet the cheap plastic ones are even more problematic, and we don't know what the OP has.

Anyway, since the OP had issues with the stock DME cutting off at the same RPM I doubt the Megasquirt is the primary issue - he should follow what you posted above.

[ForcedFirebird]

Also make sure the plastic cover is on the sensor wires as they pass behind the water pump pulley, or they can rub on the pulley and short out.

I can't tell you how many times I have seen this. On the race cars, we run them over the timing cover, and on the endurance cars, we even have a spare CPS zip tied next to functioning one to make an easy swap if it goes bad.


Also if the sensor is old, they tend to crack right were it meets the wire and can cause an issue.

[JIMBOkye]

UPDATE: Changed the gap to 0.030" and that fixed it.

I am running one of the cheap plastic ones, as I have not been able to find any of the metal oem style ones. Anyone got a hook up for that style? Looks like Pelican is out of them, don't see any on Blunttech or Amazon either... Looks like ECS has one, but $150...

[digger]

UPDATE: Changed the gap to 0.030" and that fixed it.

I am running one of the cheap plastic ones, as I have not been able to find any of the metal oem style ones. Anyone got a hook up for that style? Looks like Pelican is out of them, don't see any on Blunttech or Amazon either... Looks like ECS has one, but $150...

let sleeping dogs lie

[Digitalwave]

As I said before, the metal ones are more than double the price. I think I paid $145 for mine.

[JIMBOkye]

let sleeping dogs lie

haha yes, I will not be changing it unless the problem comes back.



Another thing I noticed now is the idle seems to be smoother. I guess, with a better signal from the CPS, this makes sense.

[JIMBOkye]

Got a PM asking how I adjusted the CPS gap, so I figured I'd share my response in-case anyone had any input or was also wondering the same thing...

What I did was turn the crank until a tooth lined up with the metal tip of the CPS sensor. Then I measured that gap (was about 0.040"). I then loosened the two bolts on the CPS mounting bracket (had to remove the CPS to get to lower one), then reinstalled the CPS on the bracket and put a 0.030" feeler gauge between the sensor and tooth and pushed the sensor tight on it while tightening the top bolt on the bracket. Once that was tight I removed the CPS sensor, tightened the lower bolt, reinstalled the CPS sensor on the bracket and rechecked the gap.

There is quite a bit of play in the CPS mounting bracket. My plan was (if I could not adjust the gap down far enough) to file or drill out the holes on the bracket a bit to give more adjust-ability. But that was definitely not necessary.

[digger]

Yeah the clearance between hole and bolt gives some adjustment. Note this means you could end up at the far end of the spectrum if it wasn't checked during install