Criticize My Turbo Build Plan

[Panici]

Looking for some guidance on fuel pumps. I’ve purchased a TRE 340 but don’t plan much after that. Should I be using the existing inline pump, deleting it, or upgrading it? What’s about FPR?

You can search my build thread to see what I've done.
Aftermarket pump, single pump conversion, wiring for bigger fuel pump, aftermarket FPR.

I discovered after going through the factory wiring diagrams, that the majority of the OEM fuel pump wiring is sufficient to run the larger pump.
The only reason the factory fuel pump fuse is 7.5A is to protect the thinner 18ga wiring going to the original low-pressure lift pump.

Turns out the original wiring before the split to the dual-pumps is 14ga, so I re-pinned the factory in-tank fuel pump connector with 14ga wires and connected where the factory wiring used to split off to the dual pumps at S341. Used the original ground point G300 as well.

To finish off the conversion, I installed new Gates 1/2" fuel injection rated hose from top of the in-tank pump to a brass 1/2"->5/16" reducer. Then 5/16" line into the fuel filter.

If I had to do this again, I would put a reducer right at the tank output and run 5/16" line on top of the tank.
Due to the large 1/2" line on top of the tank, I had to drop the tank (full of fuel) to run the hose without pinching.

[NathanR]

Looking for some guidance on fuel pumps. I’ve purchased a TRE 340 but don’t plan much after that. Should I be using the existing inline pump, deleting it, or upgrading it? What’s about FPR?

[NathanR]

I'm still waiting on a number of parts to start digging in, but there's some auxiliary things I can do in the meantime.

I realized that I should probably do the clutch and diff now as I need to break in the clutch and doing that while simultaneously trying to tune the car isn't the best idea. Was hoping to figure out all of the 'while I'm there parts'. So far I have most everything but if anyone has any ideas on other things I should get while the transmission is out, let me know.

• Clutch
• Pressure Plate
• Resurface flywheel
• Master Cylinder
• Slave Cylinder
• Clutch line/grommet
• Clutch fork pivot
• Pilot Bearing
• Throwout bearing
• Wave Washers and Dowels below:
• 

I've already done a lot of the common items like Giubo, transmission seals, center support bearing, rear main, etc.

[NathanR]

5 months into it and didn't even get it built? I can already tell it will be a fiasco. There is no such thing as reliable turbo M20. It is just waste of time and money. That has been proven again and again

5 months ago I posted in this thread that I wasn’t planning on buying anything until this time, I do appreciate your feedback though!

[DesertBMW]

5 months into it and didn't even get it built? I can already tell it will be a fiasco. There is no such thing as reliable turbo M20. It is just waste of time and money. That has been proven again and again

[NathanR]

Alright things are looking good for getting this build started. I started working through some of the purchases but will have the bulk of things bought for Black Friday, hoping to tear into things early next year and have it ready to go come spring. I’ll share the updated build list soon, but have a couple last points I’m trying to get sorted.

For the exhaust, since I currently do not have a cat or a resonator, and am just running straight to some unbranded muffler, the car is loud and smelly. Was hoping people here might have some suggestions for a high flow cat and maybe a resonator they’ve used in a turbo setup to get the car to a reasonable volume and tolerable smell.

[Northern]

Do you have a p/n for these by chance?

I think the one I was thinking of was 0280158123 off a 997 Turbo? It has the EV1/JPT connector. Downside is that I think it's shorter, and has a longboi tip - I think you can buy adapter/spacers for the bottom, but I think a lot of people just run them as they are, spacing the rail down or with an injector hat. I think 57lb/hr.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...tor-0280158123

0 280 158 298 is also 57lb/hr but USCAR connector. Medium length/no longboi tip, like the 52lb (0280158117) I am running - I also have injector hats with filters in them to bring them to the same length as an EV1.

I also have 0280158040 bookmarked, which is 980cc/89lb/hr, I think off a Ford Falcon/Barra. EV1 connector, short length, longboi tip.

I think there are a ton of other options, just make sure they're not specifically for CNG or anything else non-gasoline, I know those were popular with the Sloppy Mechanics group for a while, but they start doing weird shit as temp changes. and buy from somewhere reputable for obvious reasons haha

[AWDBOB]

Injectors - I ran deka 60s for a while and couldn't get the idle smooth. There are off-the-shelf 60lb-ish Bosch EV14s that IMO are better and not much more money.

Do you have a p/n for these by chance?

[varg]

Cheap BOVs are fine. I've been running ebay piston style BOVs on my E30 and E34 for years and they don't give me trouble. I see no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on a BOV, the consequences of it failing are a boost leak or compressor surge and while you don't want either, you can easily ID the problem and order another. You'd have to go through 3 or more of them to equal the price of turbosmart, tial, etc. Wastegates may be worth spending big money on, but I have a cheap ($100 price range) tial knockoff on my wagon and it works fine too and I'm not worried about it failing to open because I have overboost cut in my tunes. Fans though, always get the biggest fan you can fit and don't buy the cheap ones because they're crap. Buy the fan after you have everything else installed so you can measure up instead of guessing. I use a trick delta pag brushless fan as the pusher on my E34 since I needed something beefy to make up for the condenser -> 3" intercooler -> radiator stack. Expensive but man does it move air. I use an A pillar gauge pod that was sold as for an E30 M3 on my E30, the fit isn't 100% perfect but it works and I much prefer it to losing an AC vent or having to look down under the HVAC panel for my wideband and boost gauge. I put my oil pressure gauge where the OBC used to reside using a little panel I 3d printed.

[Northern]

1 - Late model coolant system conversion - moves the expansion tank to the left side, swaps the inlet/outlet sides of the rad so you can use E36 or Z3M radiators (and as far as I know these are easier to source). Downside is that you need to buy hoses, radiator, expansion tank, water pump (or blockoff the extra port on the early WP), crossover pipe (which is hard to source, and you need to find a way to mount it since the early timing belt cover doesn't have the mounting provisions), and move various electrical for coolant level sensor (and I think fan switch on the rad?) If you can find someone parting out a late car and rip everything off it, that would be the easiest way.

2 - No real opinion here. I had a 4-gauge pod in the center vent, but the Oil pressure and oil temp never worked. I eventually relocated AFR into the instrument cluster where the Check light used to be, and I just use my GFB boost controller as my boost gauge.

3 - I'd send it with the cheap BOV until you have a problem.

4 - No real opinion, in Canada and with AC deleted, I have been fine with a slim SPAL 16" pusher fan (I can't find the model number, I thought it was something like 1.85in thick so I assume the CFM are low) between FMIC and rad and the 88deg Mercedes fan switch.

[NathanR]

Alright, thanks for all the input here. I've made a revision to my build sheet attached below.

Generally I think I'm looking pretty good here, Jake's kit seems the absolute way to go for me, including the 5455g, I also added some more odds and ends like a catch can, A/C updates, and tentatively going with Spec Stage 3 for the clutch.

Seems like every time I make good progress, more questions pop up though:

1. Since the top mount turbo will clash with my expansion tank on my early-model car, does anyone have a nice clean solution for a relocation or a new expansion tank? I know I can always fall back on a hacky bracket to mount it in the battery tray, was wondering what's the norm here.
2. Looking through gauge pods, at minimum I want to run boost and oil pressure, but the 3 gauge pods seem to fit best on the console, so for the 3rd, I'm open to suggestions here. Was going to fall back on voltmeter but maybe AFR? Wondering how that complicates things with the ECU and how useful it would be to me.
3. Jake's kit includes a cheap eBay BOV. The 5455g has anti-surge, so trying to weigh how much I should look into getting a higher quality BOV. If I decide to update a bit, may just do the PSR to keep things common with Turbo and Wastegate.
4. For some reason, I thought the SPAL aux fan was an improvement over the OEM one, doing some reading now, it looks like it’s actually worse, though difficult to find by how much. Jake suggested SPAL IX-30100399 (1032 CFM). I’m trying to see if there’s anything in the same package with higher CFM. A/C Solutions lists both 30101508 (1186 CFM) and 30102045 (1710 CFM). Mostly I’m worried my already weak A/C will get even worse.

For now, planning on holding out on purchasing parts until Black Friday hits to try to get some deals and do the build over the winter while it's not sweltering here in Texas. In the meantime, will do the supporting mods like clutch, aux fan, oil cooler delete, fuel pump, diff swap, etc.

[Northern]

UUC lightweight flywheel

Blue flywheel of death


1: See below
2: I think pulsar G30 is the way to go for this power range. Will spool fast and give you lots of usable power but still gives you room to grow. P6262 is way too big.
3: I run a TiAl MVR as well, no issues but it's a chonky boi. I think any brand name is fine, BFG, Turbosmart, etc.
4. I would cheap out on a BOV. I have an ebay SSQV knockoff (comes with a flange and whatnot) and it has been fine. I prefer the TiAl Q sound though. Can buy pieces of charge pipe with the flange already welded on, and it's quite cheap.
5. I would try to sell the S4.10 or straight trade for a S3.73 since it should be the most common ratio, some NA track guy might be into that trade.
6. There are a few wasted spark options, but I think there's a thread here on a Bosch unit you can get from rockauto. I bought one of those GM V6 DIS and re-wired it (per some thread that's long gone on myE28 or E30tech) and it was jank. Don't need a cam sensor for this, but you need one for sequential spark with individual coils.
7. For 350whp you will probably be fine without Oringing the block. Get on the e30 facebook groups and look for people renting the tool for much cheaper, I think it's worth Oringing over other options if you end up popping HGs.
8. Can't comment, but just know the difference between tube&fin and bar&plate intercoolers and be able to identify them, and you can probably pop the valence off, install the bumper, and be able to measure what clears.
9. probably not going to impact power noticeably either way.
10. If the brakes work properly and your pads are a decent OEM brand like Pagid, Textar, etc, you're probably fine.

Charge piping is really easy if you run straight forward under the headlights.
Basically:
Turbo
Coupling to orient output toward highbeam
straight aluminum tube + BOV bung
90deg silicone coupler run under right highbeam
FMIC
90deg silicone coupler run under left highbeam
straight aluminum tube
Throttle body boot.
Make tubes and 90 degree couplers whichever size they need to be to suit.

+1 to what others said, just run the stock cam for your goal. A good NA or turbo cam (like that bimmerheads one) will make power, sure, but that's when you need springs, rockers, etc. and the cost balloons. Can always go back and do it later.

I would run stock exhaust manifold gaskets, realizing you need to trim the head shields a bit. They'll help your wires last longer.

Exhaust hardware - I love the cheap "HFS" amazon vbands for exhaust stuff. Stainless, have locating groove, quick release, and all metal lock nut. Don't seem to warp as badly as the vibrant ones I used on the rest of my exhaust, which were 3x the price.

Clutch - I run the S52 FX Racing Stage 3 clutch on my 24v and have no issues. I have heard they blow up if clutch kicked, but hadn't heard of the "sticky" issue. Mine's been installed for 10 years, but I have maybe 10k km on it. it does chatter in traffic.

Wideband - big fan of the Spartan stuff. Seems cheap and good. The LSU4.9 version (spartan 2? I think) is "good enough" IMO. If the ECU can run a sensor natively, obviously do that.

manual boost controller - I wouldn't bother. Run it on spring pressure, change spring if needed. Eventually ideally have the ECU do closed loop boost control, or get something like a BFG G-force III if the ECU doesn't support it.

Oil filter housing relocation - don't bother. Loosen the oil filter housing and oil lines, rotate it until it clears whatever it doesn't. I don't think it's really an issue with the Kangaroo manifold.

Injectors - I ran deka 60s for a while and couldn't get the idle smooth. There are off-the-shelf 60lb-ish Bosch EV14s that IMO are better and not much more money.

ECU - no idea what Jake's current ECU is but it's probably fine. I would buy a wire-in Link G4X to ditch the stock harness/connector and run e-throttle and have a lot of future capacity for I/O, but maybe that's not a reasonable opinion.

[varg]

Timing works the same way as it does now, it's controlled by the ECU, the distributor is only there because there's one coil. Either wasted spark or sequential LS coils will be fine with this kind of power goal, choose what works out for you i.e. if you don't want to do some wiring use whatever there is a kit for. FWIW, you can run LS coils in the wasted spark configuration too, the difference between the two is one requires a cam sensor, and one doesn't. One configuration fires two coils at once, one fires one at a time. You don't have to delete the oil cooler, you can mount an aftermarket one somewhere. I have my stock one mounted to my core support, and it does still do some cooling there believe it or not. I've confirmed with a thermal camera.

[NathanR]

• On the note of a clutch, I don't think I mind spending an extra couple hundred just to avoid needing to do it again if the eBay clutch gives up. In that case, is the FX400 appropriate? Or should I do like an FX300/FX350 or others? The car is daily driven-ish when the sun's out, I probably drive it 4-5k mi/year.
• On intercooler mounting, I assume I'll need to delete the oil cooler?
• While I’m at it, should I be planning on adding a catch can here?
• Don’t wanna let the LS coils vs wasted spark question die off here, any feedback on this one?
• Final dumb question for the day - how does timing work after the distributor is deleted?

[varg]

You've had good luck with Clutchmasters?

The only clutchmasters I've had is the 850 twin disc in my wagon. The spec stage 3+ in my E30 wouldn't disengage fully when new and now occasionally causes a vibration that goes away when I clutch in and back out slowly. It's easiest to reproduce that by popping the clutch in neutral, it'll almost always vibrate after that. I have a UUC lightweight flywheel and M5 clutch conversion waiting to go in my E30, probably this winter and if it's any good it'll be my top recommendation because it's pretty cost effective and the lightweight setup in my wagon is just so nice. Eminently blippable.

I do not abuse my cars, but I was always notoriously hard on parts because of the long commutes and daily driving. If something is going to rear its head with time it'll show up sooner with someone who is putting as many miles in a month on an old car as most do in a year. Now I have a much shorter commute, and I'm putting hardly any miles on my cars.