500 whp m20 on new head gasket, arp head studs and meth?

[e30 gangsta]

A lot of the jz and 3.0l guys run the gtx3582r in t4 flange with a .82 back housing, expect boost to come in sometime after 4000rpm, which only leaves you with 3000 rpm to play with on an m20.

To be the best recipe for power/early spool is as follows.

3.0l or above gtx3582r, 6266 dbb.

Anything below 3.0 gtx3576r just as much power with better spool time, and more tq/hp further down in the rev range. And it still makes 700 on some setups.

[grinchxvx]

I'm picking up an m52 on Sunday, looks like it's 24v turbo time. For now I will be turning up the boost on my current sts setup until I get a new headgasket and spacer on the m52 😎


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[grinchxvx]

Here she is boyz



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[ahrensNW]

Oh dear god that pink

[grinchxvx]

Oh dear god that pink

It was definitely a hoopty but I got the motor with all accessories and every thing for Mega cheap and it only has 140k miles


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[Northern]

Nice!

[grinchxvx]

Bump, I have a few questions

What should I replace motor wise while it's out of the car and everything is easy to get to? The motor supposedly only has 140k on it but I'll be doing a Leakdown test anyway to see what shape it is in.

Off the top of my head I was thinking all gaskets and new waterpump/thermo.
The machine shop doing the head will pressure test/clean it and replace the valve stem seals for 2 dollars a valve so I'll probably do that too.

I wasn't planning on opening the bottom end besides to replace the oil pan and gasket but is there anything easy worth replacing? I know the s5x motors have sensitive rod bearings but I don't think that applies to the m52.

I just want to be able to make 500 whp on stock motor and Lower compression reliably


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[Northern]

Rear main seal.
water pump/tstat/housing (unless the housing is aluminum or updated composite style, and the waterpump is newish, but that's not really hard to change later, honestly)
Chain tensioner/guides wouldn't hurt to at least look at.
May as well tack weld/loctite/lockwire the oil pump nut for peace of mind.


ZF detent pins - or at least make sure you have all the gears in the shift pattern and no 5th gear lean.

TOB/pilot bearing/pivot pin, but I assume you're doing a clutch?

[grinchxvx]

500 whp m20 on new head gasket, arp head studs and meth?

Water pump and thermo are forsure getting replaced.

Chain tensioner/guides: what do I look for on those?

Oil pump nut will be taken care of.

I'm getting the F1 stage 4 stuff for my stock g260 along with flywheel and everything. what pilot and throw out do I need?


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[Northern]

Chain tensioner/guides: what do I look for on those?

Oil pump nut will be taken care of.

I'm getting the F1 stage 4 stuff for my stock g260 along with flywheel and everything. what pilot and throw out do I need?

I'm kind of a hypocrite because I didn't pop my timing cover off, but it would be nice to see if the guides are broken or worn, and the tensioner you could unthread from the side of the head (without removing anything else) and check the spring free length, and/or just replace it with the S52 style hydraulic tensioner. If you're pulling the head later/soonish to install an MLS or something, I suppose it's just as easy to do then.

Assuming that clutch is for an M20/G260, get a new OEM G260 TOB and pilot bearing. I'm running the e36 FX racing "Stage 3" chromoly flywheel/clutch so I know first hand how shitty the bearings they include are.

[grinchxvx]

I'm kind of a hypocrite because I didn't pop my timing cover off, but it would be nice to see if the guides are broken or worn, and the tensioner you could unthread from the side of the head (without removing anything else) and check the spring free length, and/or just replace it with the S52 style hydraulic tensioner. If you're pulling the head later/soonish to install an MLS or something, I suppose it's just as easy to do then.

Assuming that clutch is for an M20/G260, get a new OEM G260 TOB and pilot bearing. I'm running the e36 FX racing "Stage 3" chromoly flywheel/clutch so I know first hand how shitty the bearings they include are.

Yeah that head is coming off as bottom end is staying Intact While head is machined and cleaned. The F1 stage 4 is meant for a zf I Believe. I know you Can use e36 stuff no problem you just have to make sure everything is off a e36. Just don't know about which throw out and all that jazz to use


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[Northern]

Not sure which TOB you need, pilot is going to match the trans.