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Where did you guys learn to tune?

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    Where did you guys learn to tune?

    I plan to start my turbo build in 2018. I am easily blown away with some other members comprehension, in regards to turbo/tuning knowledge. I recently stole another e30 with a 91 m20 swap. (I bought the car for the blower, paid 220 for a running e30 w/title). So I plan to build the spare engine for my current car.

    I have read Maximum Boost earlier this year, and plan to read it again as I have learned more since.

    Here is the plan.

    Engine: m20b25 stock
    HD Rockers
    Con Rod bolts
    Supersprint Valves.
    OEM Gasket
    ARPs
    (piston rings if needed)
    Skimmed/Decked block and head.
    How many people suggest the water jackets to be welded? 400hp is my maximum goal. Getting the project started/moving I will probably run anywhere from 6-9 psi and plan to turn it up to 9-15 once said and done.

    Engine Management: Build-a-squirt, running distributor, unless I can grasp (mentally) wasted spark set-ups. I realize how they work, I just don't want to burn out coils and would like to keep it simple.

    Turbo: HX35 or Precision 6266/6262.
    Cheap intercooler and whichever decent manifold I can buy/have built.
    I have seen 38-44 wastegates being used, will look into it further.

    This is the generic pre-build list. My main concern is tuning.

    Where is the best place to learn tuning for VE, spark, fuel? How much do you trust Autotune? VE confuses me the most, being honest. I know there are calculators to spit out numbers. I would rather have the understanding of why the adjustments need to be made. All I understand about VE is, it should be adjusted based on atmospheric pressure ( considering barometric pressure when figuring the number?) as well as calculating the amount of air that is being forced into the intake. So, do I adjust accordingly with MAP/IAT levels?

    I plan to have the engine prepped by the end of this year and have MS running (NA) early next year. Hopefully boosted by Summer or Fall. Should I grab a good base map and watch the tables live, with datalogger in the background?

    True tuning novice here. Please excuse any ignorance, you're welcome to laugh if I am in left field.

    Thanks again for anyone that can transcribe my poor intellect and making a valid response!!!
    20% Accurate

    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things arenít concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

    #2
    I almost feel like I could have the lambda where it needs to be. Is there anyway I can fine tune timing (to avoid melting valves) without an EGT sensor?
    20% Accurate

    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things arenít concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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      #3
      "In general, this is all much easier to understand when you are working on a running engine. Trying to estimate what your engine will specifically need beforehand can be more confusing than productive. It is worthwhile exercise to understand the requirements, but always remember that ultimately you will rely on your ‚€œseat of the pants‚€Ě and O2 sensor" ~ http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm

      Found this while looking for more info!
      20% Accurate

      Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things arenít concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

      Comment


        #4
        In general you set the basic settings for the ignition type, crank sensor settings, then you set the base fueling which depends on your injectors. You can set base spark and I would put it at about 12 degrees around the 0-1200 rpm and 0-30 kpa zone.

        Once you have all that set up you can try to start the car. Once it fires you may need to mess with the idle valve settings so the ICV opens enough to idle but not enough to over rev. With it starting to idle you look at fueling (VE table). and make sure it is around 14.5 and increase/decrease the cells around the idle until it is pretty steady.

        With it idling at 14.5 you can set up your spark map. spark around 12 degrees at idle up to 1000 rpm and ramp that up to about 30 degrees at 3000 rpm. you can go higher but that is a safe place to start and keep 30-35 degrees up to redline at low map settings (below 70 kpa). As map increases toward 100 kpa the spark should decrease to about 25 degrees. Fueling should increase so the afr drops to 12-13 or so. As you increase above 100 map the spark should drop to 20 or lower degrees and ve should increase so your afr goes into the 11s.

        The hardest part is getting things like fuel cut, closed loop idle, and accel enrichment set up right. You will want oxygen sensor authority turned off so you are only working on pure fuel maps. Take a look through how the program calculates fuel and you will understand more.

        If you set your target AFR table right and your spark conservative you can use autotune to get you close but autotune does not change spark, only fueling. You dont need an egt gauge.

        start here to get an idea of what tuning is about, i had to read this page a couple of times to fully grasp the concepts

        http://www.megamanual.com/begintuning.htm

        Comment


          #5
          The basics are pretty well covered if you read the stuff on megasquirt sites, it's the little catches and tricks that you need to hear from experienced tuners. The hardest things to tune are the most complex parts of the tune when you think about it. Anything using closed loop control, or something like accel enrichment with wall wetting is far more complex than dialing in a degree of advance here and there and watching for changes in power on the dyno and EGT or leaning a fuel table out.

          Speaking of auto tune, it's really only any good for steady state tuning like cruise or full throttle pulls. If you're street tuning transients it's not what you want to do for a final tune. To get to "reasonable" AFR, sure, but for the final tune I change things a little. The AFR target table can be set quite lean in areas where you tend to fall during cruise for better fuel economy, but these cells may also be passed over in other situations. For ideal smoothness and response you'll want those areas of your fueling table purposefully set rich compared to the values you'd reach using auto tune and the target AFR table. If you reach a steady state in one of these enriched areas, the EGO control will lean out to your target cruise AFR. This is a trial and error process, but it yields superior driveability compared to just using a set it and forget it approach with auto tune and the AFR target table.
          @turbovarg
          '91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
          [b u i l d]
          [Car of the month: April 2018]

          0c8b7c9527af628a346878feb14bf757

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