for oil llines......ball bearing turbos only need at most -3 an....journal bearing and other non bb turbos can use -3an or -4 an....my small t3/t4 smokes with -4 at high rpm, so i put a small piece of -3 inline of my -4 line to "restrict" the oil feed.
DIY Turbo install in progress
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You can also use a restrictor that fits in one of the fittings in the line. We made one in a lathe and drill press for the wreck racing car.Comment
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Awesome DIY! It shows that you have experience, clean up!
I was amazed about the idea of having the BOV closer to the turbo. The first and last turbo setup I did I put the bov just next to the TB.
The learning process never stops, will put it next to the turbo next time!
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the BOV should be as close to th TB as possible, after all thats the main part it's there to protect.Comment
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Subscribed, super informative thread. Can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Your bimmer looks nice as well.Comment
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The bov needs to be as close to the tb as possible. This is where the pressure first starts to build. I know it's only split second difference but having it closer to the tb will get rid of the air faster and more efficiently. Or you could just run two bov's.Comment
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yeah that works too, and is what i eventually did. i just had the parts laying around at first so it works.
you can buy a -4an male to a -3an female from any AN parts supplier. or through me haha.
DerekComment
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it don't matter how old the thread is we add more info than its good.Comment
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Holy old thread batman! 1yr and no updates?
The main reason one would desire to put the BOV closest to the TB is to keep the air moving in the same direction, rather than reverting off the TB throttle plate back to where ever the BOV is mounted. Either way it works just fine, since it's there to keep the revision from making it all the way back to the compressor wheel.Comment


8)8)
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