I did after I shot the vid. Was both fuel relays. I cleaned the contacts on both relays & sanded the grounds so I could get a better connection. Stopped clicking for the moment, but havent drove it around yet to see if it worked.
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Originally posted by E30_Pare View PostOn a side note anyone running redline water wetter? Planning to run it till summer ends the switching to coolant. Just wondering how much cooler your car ran so I can make a comparison'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Just finished my flush. They put the block drain plug in a pain in the ass spot. Took a while to get the right angle with a 12in extension & u joint.
WhatS the proper way to bleed the system? After I drained I just plugged up the rad & block then filled the rad with wetter & water. Started it up & just kept adding water.
I had my thermometer in the radiator checking if my tstat opened at the right temp (about 175f) then added more water when it opened up. I waited for it to stop bubbling then put my cap on. I had my heater on the whole time. Car was running at 3/4 temp before Tstat opened up then dropped to about a smidge under half.
In all I used about 2 1/2 gallons of water. Does that sound about right?
NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673DREWLIENTE
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Originally posted by E30_Pare View PostIn all I used about 2 1/2 gallons of water. Does that sound about right?'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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If you work on the shroud by the fan, making a tight fit and placing the fan in the proper position (blades half way into the shroud) it should pull more then enough air to need water wetter.
We ran a street stock v8 and it was almost TOO cool on the colder nights (150F) while others with crappy shrouds were running well over 260F
sigpic1984 318i Total conversion to a DIRT race car.
Check out our build on facebook @ www.facebook.com/brewstermotorsports
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I c. Il keep that in mind. Well I've been riding hard today with the water wetter checked my temp with thermometer at the hottest point was 190*f dead. I'm running with distiller water. Not bad.
Well I pulled my plugs today to give them a check. Didn't look promising. About 50% of the surface was carbon & the gaps opened up to around .040
I cleaned em up with a wire brush to get some carbon off & regapped to .028
Now it my idle is rough? Does this mean I need to open the gaps more? How much gap can I run? Anyone one with msd coil blasters?Last edited by E30_Pare; 07-31-2012, 08:09 PM.
NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673DREWLIENTE
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Originally posted by E30_Pare View PostHmm I guess il bump my gap up to smooth out my idle. Supposedly bigger gap hotter spark better idle. It runs well just idles rough. apparently msd recommends a .040 gap to start with'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Il try a .030 gap tomorrow & see if my idle smooths out. With the .028 my top end has a little more pep. I advance my timing a bit also to wake up the motor a bit. I'm quite happy with the advance with .007 intake valves. Never has this little m10 felt so alive
NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673DREWLIENTE
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Lol plug gaps & valve adjustment. Oh it's feels so gewd. No longer feels like a tired m10, but Ive never been in another 318 to make a comparison. Where are all u SoCal guys?! I must say that this desert heat does rob a lot of power
NEW ERA AUTO GLASS - SFV SOCAL - 818 974-3673DREWLIENTE
1$ PShops PM me
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