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    I did after I shot the vid. Was both fuel relays. I cleaned the contacts on both relays & sanded the grounds so I could get a better connection. Stopped clicking for the moment, but havent drove it around yet to see if it worked.

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      On a side note anyone running redline water wetter? Planning to run it till summer ends the switching to coolant. Just wondering how much cooler your car ran so I can make a comparison

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        Originally posted by E30_Pare View Post
        On a side note anyone running redline water wetter? Planning to run it till summer ends the switching to coolant. Just wondering how much cooler your car ran so I can make a comparison
        yes. not a significant amount cooler, but it did help a little.
        '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
        NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
        Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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          I c. R u running only water+wetter or with coolant? Out here in the desert I run a tad over half-3/4 temp. So if I can at least land it between that I'd be happy.

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            Just finished my flush. They put the block drain plug in a pain in the ass spot. Took a while to get the right angle with a 12in extension & u joint.

            WhatS the proper way to bleed the system? After I drained I just plugged up the rad & block then filled the rad with wetter & water. Started it up & just kept adding water.

            I had my thermometer in the radiator checking if my tstat opened at the right temp (about 175f) then added more water when it opened up. I waited for it to stop bubbling then put my cap on. I had my heater on the whole time. Car was running at 3/4 temp before Tstat opened up then dropped to about a smidge under half.

            In all I used about 2 1/2 gallons of water. Does that sound about right?

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              Originally posted by E30_Pare View Post
              In all I used about 2 1/2 gallons of water. Does that sound about right?
              that sounds right. I run water wetter + distilled water. I'll have to do something when it starts freezing here, though.
              '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
              NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
              Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                If you work on the shroud by the fan, making a tight fit and placing the fan in the proper position (blades half way into the shroud) it should pull more then enough air to need water wetter.

                We ran a street stock v8 and it was almost TOO cool on the colder nights (150F) while others with crappy shrouds were running well over 260F

                sigpic1984 318i Total conversion to a DIRT race car.
                Check out our build on facebook @ www.facebook.com/brewstermotorsports

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                  I c. Il keep that in mind. Well I've been riding hard today with the water wetter checked my temp with thermometer at the hottest point was 190*f dead. I'm running with distiller water. Not bad.

                  Well I pulled my plugs today to give them a check. Didn't look promising. About 50% of the surface was carbon & the gaps opened up to around .040

                  I cleaned em up with a wire brush to get some carbon off & regapped to .028

                  Now it my idle is rough? Does this mean I need to open the gaps more? How much gap can I run? Anyone one with msd coil blasters?
                  Last edited by E30_Pare; 07-31-2012, 08:09 PM.

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                    Coil Blaster3 gapped to .028, no issues here.
                    85' 318i ~The Bronze Bomber (FrankenM10 with a Forced Future :wgaf:)

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                      Hmm I guess il bump my gap up to smooth out my idle. Supposedly bigger gap hotter spark better idle. It runs well just idles rough. apparently msd recommends a .040 gap to start with

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                        Originally posted by E30_Pare View Post
                        Hmm I guess il bump my gap up to smooth out my idle. Supposedly bigger gap hotter spark better idle. It runs well just idles rough. apparently msd recommends a .040 gap to start with
                        you want as big of a gap as possible without having issues. You should have spark issues at high RPM, not idle. And you want as large as a gap as possible at idle for a better, more even burn.
                        '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                        NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                        Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                          Il try a .030 gap tomorrow & see if my idle smooths out. With the .028 my top end has a little more pep. I advance my timing a bit also to wake up the motor a bit. I'm quite happy with the advance with .007 intake valves. Never has this little m10 felt so alive

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                            I'm not sure what units you're talking about. Adjust the valves to 0,15 millimeters, cold and let them be. If that doesn't work, something's broken/worn.

                            Cheers, Jarno.

                            EDIT: Oh, you were talking about plug gaps. :D Nevermind.

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                              Lol plug gaps & valve adjustment. Oh it's feels so gewd. No longer feels like a tired m10, but Ive never been in another 318 to make a comparison. Where are all u SoCal guys?! I must say that this desert heat does rob a lot of power

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                                What plugs here? Side of distributor? Is it a ground?

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