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    IE pan baffle

    anyone have issues installing the IE pan baffle ?

    darn thing won't clear and let the pan sit proper. we tried clearancing it a bit and flipped the one bolt and nut that may interfere. i'm pretty sure it needed to be mounted tight to the shallow side. my pops drilled the holes with the baffle tight to the existing oil sender baffle. i'm not sure i'm going to be able to clearance it now for fitment. i might buy or get another cut and have it welded, but i want to make sure that i'm correct on the issue. gonna try clearance it one more time before tossing it and starting over.

    may be something to note for others in the future.

    #2
    I did have some issues, I mention them near the end of this page https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...d-thread/page3

    You can definitely clearance it but it is annoying, to say the least.

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      #3
      Found some pictures. I did end up making some cuts. I believe this is how it looked when I installed it, but it is possible I did a little more filing before it actually got torqued down.

      Click image for larger version

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        #4
        thanks.nice build. we're close to the same on way too much stuff lol

        having the exact same fitment issues and clearancing the same area. i haven't cut that deep though. i also had to clearance the crank scraper much the same as you.
        Last edited by 82eye; 07-20-2021, 10:19 AM.

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          #5
          Originally posted by 82eye View Post
          thanks.nice build. we're close to the same on way too much stuff lol

          having the exact same fitment issues and clearancing the same area. i haven;cut that deep though. i also had to clearance the crank scraper much the same as you.
          Yeah I found the fitment on a lot of the IE stuff pretty questionable. Not everything, thankfully, but anyway...

          I don't think as it is the baffle is going to be doing much. I probably won't even push it to the point I really need it until I figure out a drysump setup anyway.

          Comment


            #6
            i'm just trying to get a simple street car set up. nothing much other than bolt in. you're way more involved.
            using the IE baffle, scraper, hd rockers, and long tube header. sure hope this fitment crap doesn't extend to them.

            i should maybe toss a build on here but it'd be a yawner lol
            Last edited by 82eye; 07-20-2021, 10:20 AM.

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              #7
              I used to use the IE baffle, but replaced it for an AAF baffle. The IE baffle was hot trash for something I was trusting to do a very specific job in a very expensive engine.

              I would HIGHLY recommend the AAF if you can swing it before putting your engines back together.

              https://advancedautofab.com/p/aaf-e3...il-pan-baffle/

              I have used the IE HD rockers several times with good luck, as well as their "billet" aka not reground cams (272 and 284/280), and their "stage 2" long tube headers, that are now (finally) made out of stainless.

              Their poly bushings were poor quality, crank scraper and baffle, as well as several other things. But most of the critical engine components have seemed to hold up well.

              Spec guys had issues for a while with HD rocker arm pads falling off, and there was a machining issue yeaaars ago, but I haven't had any issues in the past few years with the rockers or components mentioned above.
              1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
              1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
                I used to use the IE baffle, but replaced it for an AAF baffle. The IE baffle was hot trash for something I was trusting to do a very specific job in a very expensive engine.

                I would HIGHLY recommend the AAF if you can swing it before putting your engines back together.

                https://advancedautofab.com/p/aaf-e3...il-pan-baffle/

                I have used the IE HD rockers several times with good luck, as well as their "billet" aka not reground cams (272 and 284/280), and their "stage 2" long tube headers, that are now (finally) made out of stainless.

                Their poly bushings were poor quality, crank scraper and baffle, as well as several other things. But most of the critical engine components have seemed to hold up well.

                Spec guys had issues for a while with HD rocker arm pads falling off, and there was a machining issue yeaaars ago, but I haven't had any issues in the past few years with the rockers or components mentioned above.

                well shit the pan's been drilled already. i never knew about AAF. solidly in the sticks here, there's zero community close by unless you count soccer moms drivin X-whatevers

                kinda married to this crap IE baffle now and have to make it work if possible. have alot more confidence in the scraper but it's gonna be tight. i can't afford the baffle throwing shit off square, which it is doing. we're super close but can't seem to find what's throwing us off. and it's not a drop on, you kinda have to twist the pan in to place as it is now.

                the rockers were bought a couple yrs ago but the headers are brand new. not trying to slag IE stuff either. glad they exist as it's stupid hard to source anything here.
                Last edited by 82eye; 07-20-2021, 10:38 AM. Reason: typos

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yeah, to be clear I did not have any issues with critical components. Stroker kit went together pretty seamlessly and is running well. I feel like there are a number of things though, as mentioned, that just aren't well designed and/or manufactured very poorly. Bimmerheads did my head but IIRC they are using HD rockers. I do, however, have an issue with their ARP head studs kit... they are ever so slightly too long and are poking into the valve cover, which I think is giving me a poor seal in some spots. Still need to fix it, but in terms of leaks the next big one on my list is the trans... everything else is pretty minor.

                  That trapdoor'd baffle looks pretty good, if I wasn't working on a total replacement oil pan/dry sump design I would likely go that route next time I yank the motor out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by JehTehsus View Post
                    Yeah, to be clear I did not have any issues with critical components. Stroker kit went together pretty seamlessly and is running well. I feel like there are a number of things though, as mentioned, that just aren't well designed and/or manufactured very poorly. Bimmerheads did my head but IIRC they are using HD rockers. I do, however, have an issue with their ARP head studs kit... they are ever so slightly too long and are poking into the valve cover, which I think is giving me a poor seal in some spots. Still need to fix it, but in terms of leaks the next big one on my list is the trans... everything else is pretty minor.

                    That trapdoor'd baffle looks pretty good, if I wasn't working on a total replacement oil pan/dry sump design I would likely go that route next time I yank the motor out.

                    i sourced the rockers and scraper through bimmerheads. good guys. no way i could afford to ship heads around though. they use the IE parts for a lot of things. i got the header and baffle direct from IE.
                    i'm running a 272 regrind with the rockers. just put in last night.


                    i'm just going with oem head bolts.
                    Last edited by 82eye; 07-20-2021, 10:45 AM. Reason: bolts

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 82eye View Post


                      well shit the pan's been drilled already. i never knew about AAF.

                      With the AAF you actually remove the stock baffle (the piece you drill into for the IE baffle). Took my buddy less than 5 minutes to weld in. I brought him the pan clean w baffle already removed (super easy to remove stock baffle).
                      1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
                      1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post


                        With the AAF you actually remove the stock baffle (the piece you drill into for the IE baffle). Took my buddy less than 5 minutes to weld in. I brought him the pan clean w baffle already removed (super easy to remove stock baffle).


                        was looking at that. not entirely certain how the stock baffle pulls. it looks just pressed in with seals on the one side, but i'm not sure how the bottom support is attached.

                        edit: i notice the AAF piece is way more wide open. much more like the profile jeh tehsus wound up with.

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                          #13
                          +1 for Hank:

                          use the AAF baffle.

                          t
                          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                            #14
                            got the baffle in. drops on no worries now. obstruction turned out to be the inner side of the hole for the relief valve. a little clearancing there allowed it to drop right on. just a couple passes with the file.

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