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m20 street build : part deux

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    m20 street build : part deux

    so we'll try this again. the last attempt merged two posts exceeding the number of pics allowed. hopefully i can have the other thread flagged and deleted.
    will try keep it all here.

    putting together an m20 street car. took the block in to the machinist and had him clean it up and put new freeze plugs, rings and bearings in.


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    made sure it wasn't tanked due to the intermediate shaft babbit bearing.
    crank and rotating mass were rebalanced




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    gave it some color




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    got the crank and intermediate shaft timing pulleys in, popped the oil filter / cooler line holder and oil temp sender on. new seals / gaskets of course.




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    then added a crank scraper. my pops clearanced it bit by bit with a set of hand files. slow and careful.




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    more on the way ...
    Last edited by 82eye; 10-01-2021, 08:26 AM.

    #2
    oil pump and relief valve cleaned up and installed.


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    cleaned up the oil pan and added a baffle.




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    i needed the oil pump and relief installed to clearance the baffle. it was a complete pain. had to reverse one of the bolts as well as clearance.



    oil pan got a little color before final fitting.



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    at this point i busted a bolt getting the rear main seal cover torqued on. the stud broke outside the block so it was easy to remove. decided to replace them all but it halted getting the pan on.


    turned my attention to the head.




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    it got cleaned up with a valve grind and new seals. kept the springs as they were good. was a bit of a debate as i went with new hd rockers.



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    newer meatier rocker is on the right. i also reused the eccentrics. a lot of the original gear was in good order. i'm starting with a 100k mi car.


    more soon ...


    Last edited by 82eye; 10-01-2021, 08:28 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      cam got sent off to vancouver for a regrind from colt cams




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      272 regrind



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      got the valve train back together with a new cam seal, and rocker shaft plugs.



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      had to get a few new studs. some of the old ones weren't in great shape. someone had done a valve adjustment or cover gasket and used insane amounts of loctite and silicon sealer. some of the old ones stripped. it was super lucky i didn't strip the head bosses. the new valve cover studs weren't long enough to engage the threads on a nut once installed.




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      bit of a disappointment. built some new studs from m6 x 40 bolts to replace the bad ones and kept going.



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      should have just done that in the first place and saved the cash.


      more to be done ...




      Comment


        #4
        adjusted the valves at the bench then cleaned up the valve cover.



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        valves will need to be checked again once the head gets mounted.

        got the rear main seal and cover on with new bolts.



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        that allowed me to get the oil pan on finally.




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        used two cork pan gaskets to sandwhich the scraper. they really squished out when torquing the pan in. can see it in the shot of the rear main seal. hope they sealed decent or i'm looking at a mess once in the car.

        installed a new water pump and tensioner.



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        re used the pin and spring as they were good. may still replace them, as i might have a new set floating around my parts bin.


        kinda got stalled here as i'm waiting for head bolts. really wanna get this engine together before it gets cold. all work gets impossible in the winter here.


        Comment


          #5
          head bolts got here. things warmed up yesterday a bit so i fired up the little electric garage heater and got some work done. tapped out the head bolt holes for a cleaning, and wiped the mating surfaces on the head and block down with isopropyl.




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          got the head back on. torqued it in over 4 stages. went a bit slower as it was a little cool and we wanted to let it all get a bit warmer.




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          put the belt on to keep it all safe. gave it 2 turns and all was good. no clicks no noise, and locked the tensioner. belt walked itself perfectly in line.





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          there's no gasket under the valve cover. it's just on loose to keep dust out for now. i gotta find the front covers and lift hook in my parts mess.
          at least it's starting to look like something. if it stays nice i'll see what i can get done on the intake today.
          Last edited by 82eye; 11-22-2021, 10:13 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            This is a great build and exactly what I'm working on doing as well (still collecting parts)!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by FlippJr66 View Post
              This is a great build and exactly what I'm working on doing as well (still collecting parts)!
              it's pretty standard really. there are much more involved engine builds on this board.

              Comment


                #8
                wow crawling along ..

                the engine got dressed before install.


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                added a rhd lightweight flywheel

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                used a stock clutch kit and got the trans stabbed back on to the engine.


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                we actually got it in the car. been almost a decade since it had an engine.


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                Comment


                  #9
                  Looks great! Loving the eccentric blue colour scheme on the motor/timing belt.

                  What's the weight difference with the RHD flywheel over stock?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by alpinaseeone View Post
                    Looks great! Loving the eccentric blue colour scheme on the motor/timing belt.
                    yeah i got something called irlen's syndrome which makes looking at a black background like staring into the void of space for me lol.
                    a little colour helps me see stuff to help maintain it in the future.


                    Originally posted by alpinaseeone View Post
                    What's the weight difference with the RHD flywheel over stock?
                    i think the rhd is 8 1/2 lbs and stock is a little over 19. there are stock m20 flywheels as light as 13.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i got a longtube header in and screwed up the paint on my valve cover while doing it.


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                      don't ask. i opted to install after the engine was in instead of hanging them prior. have no clue if it was the right decision.

                      did get them in.


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                      at some point i managed to clean up and rebuild the brakes and added in some stainless lines.

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                      that one was easy. getting the 2 small lines in above the rear sub was no fun.


                      don't mind the rusty rotors i have replacements.

                      i got one of those aae z3 racks in before stuffing the engine in but i have pics elsewhere. i'll try to remember to pop one or two on
                      Last edited by 82eye; 11-28-2023, 06:35 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Pics on last post not loading?
                        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by digger View Post
                          Pics on last post not loading?
                          they did originally. i'm loading direct so maybe exceeded allowable amount ?

                          edit : see if that works. i've clearly gotten old and am shit at interwebz.
                          Last edited by 82eye; 11-28-2023, 06:36 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Working now, Headers look great.

                            Sorry about the valve cover, doesn't look too bad - nothing a bit of sanding & paint won't fix! A small price to pay for how good the manifold looks in the bay

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by alpinaseeone View Post
                              Working now, Headers look great.

                              Sorry about the valve cover, doesn't look too bad - nothing a bit of sanding & paint won't fix! A small price to pay for how good the manifold looks in the bay
                              had a hard time lifting the one side of the engine off the motor mount to get enough clearance. one of the headers was resting higher up on the valve cover and managed to scratch it all to shit while i was under the car.

                              Comment

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