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Okay to run original ETA pistons with 885 (i) head if I'm going to turbo?

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    #16
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    I second the keep it simple. Put the m20b25 head, topend gubbins and induction and boost it. Let sleeping dogs in the bottom end lie provided the comp test and leak down don’t show its munted. The 40whp gain FF refers to is along way from an apples to apples comparison. If this was a NA engine it would be a totally different approach.
    also if building a stroker bottom end for boost a 2.7 with factory rods and slugs is not the best choice and savings are not enough to justify these budget items IMO
    Thanks digger, this is very helpful. So if I am going to boost, you think I should just leave the 2.7 bottom end as is and add on the i top. Any idea on a ballpark HP going this route?

    Still want to hear any and all opinions as I make these decisions. I am still new to all of this. Thanks.

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      #17
      NA is 140-150whp so rough rule of thumb is 1bar boost will be 280-300whp and so on depends on turbo and what part of efficiency map you run etc. others will be able to recommend it’s not my thing

      I might be wrong but DBO YouTube channel may have done a “stroker” turbo might have been slight different and based on SETA
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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        #18
        No, my suggestion isn't the "easiest", but it's not far.

        In my experience, you will see anywhere from mid 250's to about 500whp depending on the turbo you select. A 58-60mm turbo will get you 300whp at 13psi, on a normal b25, personally done several of those (Turbonetics Super 60, or Garrett t04e etc). A 6266 at 19-ish psi will net you about 500whp (did one for a local, he made 518 @ 19psi). An HX35 at 15psi will get you about 340whp. Granted, these will all be VERY different spool rates. The 6266 won't see full boost until about 5000rpm, whereas a 56mm will be closer to 3500rpm.

        If you want an idea of what yours will make, browse these forum builds. A lot of them are using flat pistons, and you will also get a feel for the turbo you would like.
        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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          #19
          I'd add that the art is to make it streetable, waking up early but not fading out too early. Turbo selection is crucial here.

          I see forums full of turbo shit that spools up @5000, puts out nice power but must hit limiter somewhere @6500. That kind of car is slower in traffic light races than average diesel cab. Lots of noise and wheelspin, but not much performance.

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            #20
            Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
            No, my suggestion isn't the "easiest", but it's not far.

            In my experience, you will see anywhere from mid 250's to about 500whp depending on the turbo you select. A 58-60mm turbo will get you 300whp at 13psi, on a normal b25, personally done several of those (Turbonetics Super 60, or Garrett t04e etc). A 6266 at 19-ish psi will net you about 500whp (did one for a local, he made 518 @ 19psi). An HX35 at 15psi will get you about 340whp. Granted, these will all be VERY different spool rates. The 6266 won't see full boost until about 5000rpm, whereas a 56mm will be closer to 3500rpm.

            If you want an idea of what yours will make, browse these forum builds. A lot of them are using flat pistons, and you will also get a feel for the turbo you would like.
            Thanks, ForcedFirebird. Can you clarify what your suggestion would be? To use the B25 pistons if possible, right? What is the most straightforward way to do that with the ETA block? Maybe shaving the block is part of that suggestion, but I don't understand how.

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              #21
              Originally posted by hasa View Post
              I'd add that the art is to make it streetable, waking up early but not fading out too early. Turbo selection is crucial here.

              I see forums full of turbo shit that spools up @5000, puts out nice power but must hit limiter somewhere @6500. That kind of car is slower in traffic light races than average diesel cab. Lots of noise and wheelspin, but not much performance.
              Thanks hasa. I am new to the turbo scene. Is there a "tried and true" option I can go with for the M20 setup? One that most agree is a solid choice?

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