Another Bogging down issue

[completelyrevlimited]

Did you ever put the tuned chip back in? Early on you said it would run but not rev then you put the stock chip back in & it would no longer start. Do you have no fuel at the rail or are the injectors not firing? A cheap magnetic coil detector can work good for testing the injectors.

My car was fouling out cylinder 4 when it had a broken rocker arm. After replacing the rocker arm all the plugs are looking white & lean & it will not rev past 3000 rpm when hot. I need to hook the scan tool back up & see if the issue starts when the o2 goes into closed loop. It only has a few thousand miles on it but my bad rocker arm may have damaged it with fuel. The adaptation values look the same now as they did with the bad rocker, but that may just be the scan tool. Has anyone used a launch scan tool to monitor adaptations on a 1.3 dme?

I ended up putting a new ECU in, anddddd no change. Which is surprising. I ended up getting a noid light to test injector pulse, will update asap

[completelyrevlimited]

Update: I just tested the car with the new ECU, in the morning* it decided to start and run, however it was running terribly. Realized that I had a terrible Vacuum leak by my doing a few minutes ago. Plugged in the Noid light, and saw I did get injector pulse now, however it still wont start, plugs are completely soaked, could this be the reason? Letting them vent currently til morning.

[Caperix]

Update: I just tested the car with the new ECU, in the morning* it decided to start and run, however it was running terribly. Realized that I had a terrible Vacuum leak by my doing a few minutes ago. Plugged in the Noid light, and saw I did get injector pulse now, however it still wont start, plugs are completely soaked, could this be the reason? Letting them vent currently til morning.

The plugs being fuel fouled could also wash down the cylinders & lower your compression enough not to start. You may want to pour a very small amount of oil into each cylinder before installing the plugs.

Have you verified timing has not skipped, either at the belt or at the cam gear?

[Caperix]

Hope you have made progress on your car. I hooked the scan tool up to mine today & learned a few things. First my tps is no longer reading the idle switch. I tried to adjust it, it will click but not read, splitting the case open did not show any obvious issues or oil in it. Second my misfire begins happening when the car goes into closed loop operation. So either I have an o2 sensor giving bad readings or the cold start enrichment is letting the car run better. I have a tps & an o2 sensor on order.

[completelyrevlimited]

Hope you have made progress on your car. I hooked the scan tool up to mine today & learned a few things. First my tps is no longer reading the idle switch. I tried to adjust it, it will click but not read, splitting the case open did not show any obvious issues or oil in it. Second my misfire begins happening when the car goes into closed loop operation. So either I have an o2 sensor giving bad readings or the cold start enrichment is letting the car run better. I have a tps & an o2 sensor on order.

Interesting, do you get an OHM reading from the pins?

[Caperix]

Interesting, do you get an OHM reading from the pins?

The cables on my meter are getting bad so they don't give accurate resistance readings. So I only used the launch scan tool to find it was not reading & continuity test to try to adjust it. I don't think it is my problem, when I got the car it was out of adjustment, at that time it would rev fine just idle high. I don't know if it just changes maps in the dme or if it opens the idle valve all the way when the switch closes.

[ForcedFirebird]

When the idle switch is bad, the ECU 'thinks" your foot is on the accelerator and will run rich and foul plugs.

Check the blue temp sensor, same thing, if that goes bad, it messes with the fueling.

[Caperix]

When the idle switch is bad, the ECU 'thinks" your foot is on the accelerator and will run rich and foul plugs.

Check the blue temp sensor, same thing, if that goes bad, it messes with the fueling.

My issue looks to be the opposite, the car runs fine on cold start then once it goes into closed loop has a miss when under high load or revving quickly. The plugs look white & lean when I pull them. I am hoping my o2 sensor was damaged by fuel due to a failed rocker arm.

[ForcedFirebird]

Easy test. Unplug the o2, disconnect battery for a few mins, restart. If the issue goes away, then it's the o2. The ECU will run the engine fine without it as long as the weather is moderate. We never use them in the race cars since a bad sensor is worse than no sensor.

[completelyrevlimited]

Hey everyone, so I finally got some time to work on it again. It seems very strange now. It starts! I ended up going completely stock again, with the regular injectors, etc. It was just so flooded it wouldn't start

But I believe I found the source to the problem. The alternator is not charging now. Any tips? Perhaps the voltage regulator, or are those built into it? or perhaps a loose connection from to alternator? I have yet to look at the charging system of the b25, so I'm definitely excited to learn. Any new tricks to testing the system?

Car stalled on me when I blipped the throttle. Only at a constant 11.88 volts while on. Anti lock light on and battery light on.

Edit: No codes reported from ecu

[ForcedFirebird]

Is the battery light on in the cluster when it's running?

The battery light should come on with key on, and go out when the engine is revved past 1000rpm. If you don't have the light with key on, you may have a bad bulb, which will cause the alternator to never begin charging.

If that checks out, then you may have a bad regulator/brushes. It's a ceramic thing on the back of the alternator held in by two screws. Remove that and you'll have two brushes that stick out and make contact with the commutator. If the brushed are really worn, peak inside the alternator and make sure the copper doesn't have large grooves in it - is so, the whole unit needs replaced.

[completelyrevlimited]

Is the battery light on in the cluster when it's running?

The battery light should come on with key on, and go out when the engine is revved past 1000rpm. If you don't have the light with key on, you may have a bad bulb, which will cause the alternator to never begin charging.

If that checks out, then you may have a bad regulator/brushes. It's a ceramic thing on the back of the alternator held in by two screws. Remove that and you'll have two brushes that stick out and make contact with the commutator. If the brushed are really worn, peak inside the alternator and make sure the copper doesn't have large grooves in it - is so, the whole unit needs replaced.

Yes, have the three lights during startup, didn't go away. Walked to battery with a volt meter and it stayed at a constant 11.88v I'll check the regulator.

[ForcedFirebird]

And the engine was revved over 1000rpm? The alternator will not excite if you just turn the key and let the car run, these engines idle fairly low. Modern cars automatically do this on startup.

[completelyrevlimited]

And the engine was revved over 1000rpm? The alternator will not excite if you just turn the key and let the car run, these engines idle fairly low. Modern cars automatically do this on startup.

I am not sure, it dies out after that, I don't believe I've ever seen the battery light and light, etc stay on whenever I've started it in the past. If I try to rev it it dies out instantly.

I'm running in circles here, nothing seems to give me info. Someone said it's possible that the FPR could be giving it too much pressure causing flooding?

I'm at crossroads trying to figure it out. I'm thinking ignition coil could be the issue? Not a strong spark? I've read multiple reports of the ignition coil tests jumping around. I believe my current one reads 2.6k ohms, and so does my original backup one, one is Bosch and the other is NGK iirc. .03-06 on primary.

[ForcedFirebird]

Sound alike an AFM issue. On a bone stock e30, if you unplug the AFM, it will start and idle fine, but die immediately with any throttle response, irregardless if the TPS is even connected.

Easy test. Unplug AFM and see if anything changes. If not, do a sweep test on the AFM. Key on, you should see a voltage sweep as you open/close the barn door. I'm out and about, so can't give you pin numbers from memory.