M20 Oil Leak Head Gasket

[jeffnhiscars]

Another thought is that he may have decided to use a different head gasket than what came in the kit...BTDT

[digger]

As discussed in one of the similar threads be 110% sure it is leaking from the gasket before diving in as multiple people have stated and now shown that it not always as it seems

[88Sedan]

Update: I ran UV dye and used a light. Tbh the dye kinda sucked, I wish they had more product info because next time I would have run 2 little bottles instead of 1. There was no dilution formula to follow. Before dilution it was plenty reflective, but once circulated it didnt show much of anything. Annoying.

I tore car apart to the cam seals, O ring seemed fine but it does in fact look like the cam seal was seeping oil. Strangely, some sort of grease was visible on the cam snout. It was white and had hardened to a good degree, kinda looked like someone used lithium grease on install (forehead smack). Seal surface looks ok, but due to the hardened grease I found I'll be cleaning and polishing the cam snout.

Also uncovered some unrelated issues, such as the purge solenoid hose being hardened and basically useless where it attaches to underside of throttle body. Might explain the idle roughness I've been experiencing and the rich-looking combustion chambers. Also found out that the PO had stripped out the alternator bracket, yes the geared one. Made relieving belt tension annoying.

I will certainly update as things move along. I've only had the car in my posession a couple months, and as many of you know there's lots of little things to attend to.

Here's to hoping my gratitude towards ya'll isn't premature... thanks!

[88Sedan]

To keep updating this thread:

I have found a surprising number of things wrong with my engine, to the point I'm shocked it wasn't leaking more oil than it was. We are talking fixable things, just a lot of them.

Right now the front of the engine is almost entirely torn down, and I have a question for you guys. Since I already have the timing belt assembly removed and will be replacing the oil pump shaft gear with the sintered version, am I stupid for being tempted to also do the front crank seal and seal for the oil pump shaft?

The car actually came with the seals, and a friend has the tool to hold the pulley for removing the jesus bolt. If I go for it, I would reinstall timing belt in correct orientation in case the crank turns. I understand I need high amounts of leverage, measured in 4 or more feet.

I understand some people bump the starter to untorque the crank bolt--this method would not require the pulley holder if TB is installed correct? What do you rest the breaker bar on in this case?

In summary, should I leave good enough alone or should I go for it since basically the entire front of engine and cooling system are removed?

And if yes, open to all info/recommendations.
Thanks.

[jeffnhiscars]

The dye didn't do wonders for me with a cheap uv light so I stepped up and ...well...you see the pics above and 5hats w just 1 bottle of dye.

as far as the front main seal if it's leaking you may as well do it WYAIT. Do NOT bump start to loosen the crank bolt but do have at least an old timing belt on to keep things aligned. Note also IIRC (it's been a while) I think you expose the front of the oil,pan gasket. Option 1 is to replace the whole,gasket. What I did was cut the front section off a new gasket and put some rtv where it contacted the old gasket. Never did leak :)

[digger]

To keep updating this thread:

I have found a surprising number of things wrong with my engine, to the point I'm shocked it wasn't leaking more oil than it was. We are talking fixable things, just a lot of them.

Right now the front of the engine is almost entirely torn down, and I have a question for you guys. Since I already have the timing belt assembly removed and will be replacing the oil pump shaft gear with the sintered version, am I stupid for being tempted to also do the front crank seal and seal for the oil pump shaft?

The car actually came with the seals, and a friend has the tool to hold the pulley for removing the jesus bolt. If I go for it, I would reinstall timing belt in correct orientation in case the crank turns. I understand I need high amounts of leverage, measured in 4 or more feet.

I understand some people bump the starter to untorque the crank bolt--this method would not require the pulley holder if TB is installed correct? What do you rest the breaker bar on in this case?

In summary, should I leave good enough alone or should I go for it since basically the entire front of engine and cooling system are removed?

And if yes, open to all info/recommendations.
Thanks.

how miles on the seal? normally i let sleeping dogs lie if there are no issues but with the right tools its an easy job so on a high mileage engines its a matter or time. the crank holder tool is the go

[packratbimmer]

I think newly produced seals are suspect at the moment. If the seals are not leaking, they might actually hold out longer than some of the swill parts that are out there there days.

[88Sedan]

120k on the seals and motor has been extra leaky hence the vast disassembly. The seals I have are correct and came with the car, but I suspect I won't be able to identify mfr date. They are elring seals.

With the crank holder tool, what do you recommend for holding it? Or let rest against wood on the car or something? I'm assuming/hoping a pipe on a fat breaker bar will work to remove the bolt--heat if needed.

[packratbimmer]

If your timing belt is off now, be super careful not to launch a piston into a valve or two. Get that crank bolt loose first next time!

[88Sedan]

I'm actually planning to reattach my old belt until the crank bolt breaks free. Good thing to add though for future forum searchers.

[jeffnhiscars]

You don't want to "hold" the crank tool. Rest it on a block of wood on the frame rail.

[88Sedan]

Hey reviving my thread with an update. Among other oil leaks, it was the camshaft seal that creates the worrisome leak I had. I located and fixed a number of leaks actually. Kudos and thanks to the members with the sound advice. Now working on other issues.