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    Break in oil

    just installed a refreshed m20. was gonna use rotella t6 5w-40 as a break in oil. 5w-30 is recommended in the bentley, but i'm thinking of getting the rotella t6 5w-40 as it is supposed to have higher levels of zddp, which everyone seems to recommend using. it's a diesel oil.

    is there any reason i should stay away, or is there better recommendation floating out there ?

    #2
    T6 should be pretty good, just drop it after a short time.

    Comment


      #3
      I wouldn’t use a full synthetic oil
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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        #4
        Originally posted by digger View Post
        I wouldn’t use a full synthetic oil
        it's supposed to have 1200ppm of zinc - zddp.

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          #5
          Originally posted by 82eye View Post

          it's supposed to have 1200ppm of zinc - zddp.
          That’s merely a single aspect.

          I would not use a high detergent diesel oil nor full synthetic

          its slightly more complicated than just choosing an oil with a suitable amount of ZDDP
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by digger View Post

            That’s merely a single aspect.

            I would not use a high detergent diesel oil nor full synthetic

            its slightly more complicated than just choosing an oil with a suitable amount of ZDDP
            it's recommended elsewhere here on the board. it also pops up everywhere people look for oil suitable for flat tappet engines. mobil 1 0w40 used to come up but the zddp content has apparently been reduced below 700. our engines like it up at 1000 or over. under 900 the cams can wear badly.

            what are you running ?

            fun fact : synthetic oil is not synthetic. it's the refinement process that's different, but it all starts with a the same crude.

            Comment


              #7
              people probably aren’t recommending for breakin though and if they are they shouldn’t. If you look at what the oil companies offer as dedicated breakin oils they generally are mineral oils with low detergent, low friction modifiers and low dispersants. Diesel have the ZDDP but also the other stuff you don’t want.

              don’t be too fixated on one aspect of the oil
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by digger View Post
                people probably aren’t recommending for breakin though and if they are they shouldn’t. If you look at what the oil companies offer as dedicated breakin oils they generally are mineral oils with low detergent, low friction modifiers and low dispersants. Diesel have the ZDDP but also the other stuff you don’t want.

                don’t be too fixated on one aspect of the oil
                one alternate is using a zddp additive with a 0w-40 or maybe a 5w-30 if i can find one. my choices locally are really limited.

                edit : i'd have to order actual break in oil and wait a few weeks.

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                  #9
                  I use Amzoil break oil pictured below. Once break in is over Castrol 20/50 with Rislone ZDDP additive.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	7D53D095-C705-47F0-A0E5-7735F0B15303.png Views:	0 Size:	140.2 KB ID:	10105401

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by PEZ2 View Post
                    I use Amzoil break oil pictured below. Once break in is over Castrol 20/50 with Rislone ZDDP additive.

                    Click image for larger version Name:	7D53D095-C705-47F0-A0E5-7735F0B15303.png Views:	0 Size:	140.2 KB ID:	10105401
                    i was looking for a break in oil locally and have come up completely empty. local advice has been to just use a regular oil with higher zddp. simply trying to find a regular oil with higher levels of zddp is a teeth grinding proposition. what i've found is a pandoras box of contradicting info.

                    since i've been searching all i've found is the zinc levels are important for the cam, recommendations seem to be something like 1000 - 1200 ppm, but there's no real consensus. most modern oils including dino have been reduced to somewhere around 500 - 800ppm. diesel oils will work, though some have way too much zddp and far too many cat destroying additives.

                    a lot of the oils don't publish the amounts of additives or zddp making it harder to search.

                    edit : oil being a headache is the last thing i was expecting on this build.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've been breaking engines the same way for a long time. Cheap 20w50 conventional with Lucas ZDDP break in additive (walmart has a 20w50 supertech conventional). Start the car, break in the cam at 2500rpms for 20min. Drain oil, change filter.

                      Refill with oil of your choice. I personally run mobil 1 15w50. Run for 500 miles. Drain again.

                      Normal changes from here on out.
                      1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
                      1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
                        I've been breaking engines the same way for a long time. Cheap 20w50 conventional with Lucas ZDDP break in additive (walmart has a 20w50 supertech conventional). Start the car, break in the cam at 2500rpms for 20min. Drain oil, change filter.

                        Refill with oil of your choice. I personally run mobil 1 15w50. Run for 500 miles. Drain again.

                        Normal changes from here on out.
                        you're probably running in a warmer climate than i am. everyone here in canada is telling me 5w-30, 5w-40, 0r 0w-40 for everyday. since i can't find actual break in oil it's been suggested i use a 5w-30 and add some extra zddp. also been told to run for it 800 to 1000km.

                        oddly i've been pointed to straight synthetics so long as i add the zddp. the reason being is there are now fewer detergents in the newer synth oils as compared to what is now in dino. the pennzoil ultra platinum synth 5w-30 has fewer detergents than both the straight platinum and dino versions, and the zddp doesn't drop by much. probably leaning to that if i can't source the break in.

                        i do like your process for the break in though. it's closer to how i have always done it with just a simple oil. i have some Rotella t6 5w-40 i was considering using about the same way, but it's a diesel oil and is loaded with detergents, has enough zddp though.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I would not play amateur tribologist on a new motor. There are oils specifically designed for the break in of a new engine. I use Penngrade break in oil as do many professional engine builders. Driven (Joe Gibbs), Lucas, Amsoil and others also make break in oils.

                          Here's a good discussion on the break in of a new motor:



                          Comment


                            #14
                            Realistically i would just use a dedicated break-in oil as it is much more forgiving than other methods which is not to say other methods don't work (even doing it with your standard oil you plan to use longterm can work) but for something you want to work first time the least riskiest approach is probably best.
                            Even a 15W-50 break-in would be ok as you just heat it up before you pour it in or use a convection heater pointed at the sump a few hrs before cranking. I would point a convection heater at the engine from underneath (hood closed) for a few hrs before starting irrespective to take the chill out of the parts and help things start better with less enrichment

                            If it takes a day trip to travel and pick it up or 2 weeks for delivery then so be it.
                            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 66Vette View Post
                              I would not play amateur tribologist on a new motor. There are oils specifically designed for the break in of a new engine. I use Penngrade break in oil as do many professional engine builders. Driven (Joe Gibbs), Lucas, Amsoil and others also make break in oils.

                              Here's a good discussion on the break in of a new motor:

                              https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=67140&sid=2d5b7fa70084fc12c559c20d c353a3ab
                              my issue is no one carries break in oil local. i've been told to use diesel oil, motorcyle oil, or a full synth with a zddp additive.

                              it's been strongly recommended i run the synth with zddp, and use normal everyday driving for 600 - 1000 km as the break-in. use oil of choice after. it's the same process a dealer uses with a new car. the procedure with real break-in oil is much different and the oil is only used for the initial start up, rev to mid range, heat cycle twice, then discarded.

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