Messed Up Head Bolt Torque

[e30rik]

Long story short I kinda screwed up installing my head last night. I'm questioning the accuracy of the torque on the head bolts. I had to eyeball the 90 degrees and didn't get a continuous turn on most of them. A couple times the socket slipped and I lost my angle completely. Is there any way to check the accuracy or can I buy new bolts and redo it with having to change the gasket? I haven't ran the car or anything but I don't know if it's better to send it as is or try again.

[82eye]

Long story short I kinda screwed up installing my head last night. I'm questioning the accuracy of the torque on the head bolts. I had to eyeball the 90 degrees and didn't get a continuous turn on most of them. A couple times the socket slipped and I lost my angle completely. Is there any way to check the accuracy or can I buy new bolts and redo it with having to change the gasket? I haven't ran the car or anything but I don't know if it's better to send it as is or try again.

you can replace the head bolts carefully if you want. best would be everything with a new gasket. i would try checking torque first and if it's at or under the spec simply retorque right now and finish the process.

[e30rik]

you can replace the head bolts carefully if you want. best would be everything with a new gasket. i would try checking torque first and if it's at or under the spec simply retorque right now and finish the process.

Is there a way to check torque on tty bolts? I should probably just do new gasket and bolts. Do I have to worry about the head warping at all if I remove the bolts completely? The head was machined before install

[82eye]

Is there a way to check torque on tty bolts?

use a torque wrench and see if it hits the torque before the bolt moves. if it does you know you are there or over. if not, you can complete the process. there is no final torque spec on the 1/4 turn.

I should probably just do new gasket and bolts. Do I have to worry about the head warping at all if I remove the bolts completely? The head was machined before install

just follow the correct order. honestly i'd replace them as they are removed, torque to first spec, then finish when they are all replaced, and then the 1/4 turn.
otherwise i'd pull them all, check the head - which should be fine - and then replace the gasket and go with the new bolts. it's probably overkill but you'll know you are good for sure.

[e30rik]

Just gonna pull the head and do it right I guess, only way to be sure. This time I'll use an angle gauge and a longer breaker bar. Thanks for the advice.

[e30davie]

how far out do you think you were? if you were closed id just replace the bolts1 by 1 and use the correct process. if you were within say 10-20% of correct then I reckon youll be right.

I replaced a full set of bolts without replacing the gasket shortly after initial torque, 1 by 1 when it was cold. happy days and hasn't given any drama for 8yrs...

[e30rik]

how far out do you think you were? if you were closed id just replace the bolts1 by 1 and use the correct process. if you were within say 10-20% of correct then I reckon youll be right.

I replaced a full set of bolts without replacing the gasket shortly after initial torque, 1 by 1 when it was cold. happy days and hasn't given any drama for 8yrs...

Can't be much more than that but it's hard to say on the ones that slipped off.

If you guys don't think there's any worry of the head warping then I don't mind doing it over. I didn't get any further than bolting the head down, so it's just a matter of 14 bolts. Plus I can swap out my Elring for a Goetze now that I know Pelican has them.

[e30davie]

if you Havent even run the engine, just replace the bolts. but you do you.

Don't tell anyone but I reused torque to yeild bolts twice on my old 4age...

[e30rik]

if you Havent even run the engine, just replace the bolts. but you do you.

Don't tell anyone but I reused torque to yeild bolts twice on my old 4age...

I'm tempted... When you replaced your bolts did you remove one fully and then torque the new one the full 3 stages or just the first spec and then finish when they're all in, as 82eye said

[e30davie]

Yer i just took one bolt out, and torqued up the new one fully. then moved onto the next one. Did it in the order that you would torque up the bolts.

[82eye]

how far out do you think you were? if you were closed id just replace the bolts1 by 1 and use the correct process. if you were within say 10-20% of correct then I reckon youll be right.

exactly where i would go.

Yer i just took one bolt out, and torqued up the new one fully. then moved onto the next one. Did it in the order that you would torque up the bolts.

yes this.

[hasa]

I'd just torque the bolt and send it. People think that engine building is some rocket science with ultimate tight tolerances and procedures. It's not unless we are talking about F1 engines or other professional high money motorsport. Our engines are 99.99% lawnmower level stuff.

[e30rik]

Alright, new bolts are on the way. I’ll give it a shot, thanks

[TobyB]

I'd just torque the bolt and send it. People think that engine building is some rocket science with ultimate tight tolerances and procedures. It's not unless we are talking about F1 engines or other professional high money motorsport. Our engines are 99.99% lawnmower level stuff.

Without getting into the weeds on how torque to yield bolts work, I 100% agree- if all of the bolts have experienced plastic distortion,
your chances of the head staying sealed are very high indeed.

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