Intermediate Shaft Bearings

[digger]

Discuss with a competent machine shop they will sort it out.

Another option is this which should be slightly easier and work slightly better with line boring in situ then honing.

You can almost just bore the bushes to as close as possible with good surface finish using proper feeds and speeds and scotch Brite (to smooth but not remove material)and then adjust clearance by OD grinding the shaft (rather than honing the ID)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/235343763965

[Dagamus(NM)]

I am going to second what Digger is saying. My understanding is that line boring is the proper way to do the IM shaft bearing once pressed into the block. I would question any other work the shop you went to performed as well when you take it to the machinist that is going to do this work. Have them check the quality and double check measurements while it is there for peace of mind.

[zaq123]

what digger said is my concern here as well. Old bearings can be reinstalled and I've read it has been done before if good condition with no issues. However if they had to shave it again to fit the shaft, does it mean it was not aligned correctly/cocked/out of round? All that has to be verified by the shop who knows what they are doing or even better, new bearings installed. Verification labor will probably be 1/3 of the price to get new part installed. Those bearing that digger posted are nice and fancy. Pretty sure OEM are still available for much less. If not a race car, I'd probably just go OEM for another ~200k trouble free miles.

[digger]

scotch brite probably isn't going to remove material to clearance anything so it could have just been some uber fine burrs on the edges that needed to be removed to stop it getting hung up but the issue is its an unknown

[digger]

what digger said is my concern here as well. Old bearings can be reinstalled and I've read it has been done before if good condition with no issues. However if they had to shave it again to fit the shaft, does it mean it was not aligned correctly/cocked/out of round? All that has to be verified by the shop who knows what they are doing or even better, new bearings installed. Verification labor will probably be 1/3 of the price to get new part installed. Those bearing that digger posted are nice and fancy. Pretty sure OEM are still available for much less. If not a race car, I'd probably just go OEM for another ~200k trouble free miles.

i suspect the bronze one bores and hones nicer and not having the slit makes it a bit easier to mount/fixture in a lathe or what have you without deforming it so install should be easier and perhaps shops would be less likely to baulk at the job