Originally posted by M-technik-3
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can i put an I head on my non super eta without modifying the pistons or head?
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Originally posted by Simontibbett View PostHe did all of that WITHOUT swapping pistons and had it faster than an I?
I thought you pretty much HAD to swap pistons or else it'd be slower than a stock E because of the low compression?
Guys, the effect of a small drop in compression dos not send your car spiraling in to the dark ages. It is WAY faster than a stock E, or even a chipped E. Compared to an i, the answers a little cloudier, but i'm sure mine would keep up just fine (without getting into gearing, bolt ons etc)
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I'm about to do something never done before on r3v, and post actual facts! :O
As far as CR goes, you will be looking at 8.44:1. DO NOT listen to any of the idiots that say 'oh its like 7:1 or 8:1' because it's not and they are talking out of their ass. Stock 'i' is 8.8:1, so .4:1 difference is not enough to even feel a difference.
You do not have to switch rods and THE M20B25 RODS ARE NOT ANY STRONGER. They are just longer. Which wouldn't even work because your piston would be sticking out of the block by about 5mm.
Here is my dyno graph. 85 eta with stock bottom end, 885 head with headers and a 272 cam. Untuned. Note that most 'i' cars make about 144whp untuned.. I'm sure when I actually get this thing tuned it should put down close to 160 and hopefully similar torque.
boom.-Alex
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Originally posted by acolella76 View PostI'm about to do something never done before on r3v, and post actual facts! :O
As far as CR goes, you will be looking at 8.44:1. DO NOT listen to any of the idiots that say 'oh its like 7:1 or 8:1' because it's not and they are talking out of their !@#$%^&*. Stock 'i' is 8.8:1, so .4:1 difference is not enough to even feel a difference.
You do not have to switch rods and THE M20B25 RODS ARE NOT ANY STRONGER. They are just longer. Which wouldn't even work because your piston would be sticking out of the block by about 5mm.
Here is my dyno graph. 85 eta with stock bottom end, 885 head with headers and a 272 cam. Untuned. Note that most 'i' cars make about 144whp untuned.. I'm sure when I actually get this thing tuned it should put down close to 160 and hopefully similar torque.
boom.
thank you.
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Originally posted by acolella76 View PostI'm about to do something never done before on r3v, and post actual facts! :O
As far as CR goes, you will be looking at 8.44:1. DO NOT listen to any of the idiots that say 'oh its like 7:1 or 8:1' because it's not and they are talking out of their ass. Stock 'i' is 8.8:1, so .4:1 difference is not enough to even feel a difference.
You do not have to switch rods and THE M20B25 RODS ARE NOT ANY STRONGER. They are just longer. Which wouldn't even work because your piston would be sticking out of the block by about 5mm.
Here is my dyno graph. 85 eta with stock bottom end, 885 head with headers and a 272 cam. Untuned. Note that most 'i' cars make about 144whp untuned.. I'm sure when I actually get this thing tuned it should put down close to 160 and hopefully similar torque.
boom.
the stock b25 has very low compression already so any amount lower is a step backwards but it is not the reason why the 2.7I don't make more power than stock. It is the fact that most don't upgrade the breathing and the engine falls on its face. You have put a cam and headers which is the correct way to get more power from the bigger bottom end but have only made slightly more than stock and i have seen healthy B25 make more than this. Sure a custom tune will help but it does on a stock B25 aswell. Camming the low compression engine compounds the problem of low static CR and it hurts the low rpm performance. You need more compression to use the bugger cam more efficintly. I would be doing a fresh stock B25 before any of this budget 2.7i stuff and then a 2.7/2.8 with moderate CR.
I have not seen anyone really do a 2.7 with ETA crank, B25 Piston, B25 rod and deck 2mm off the top and use a cam gear and at the same time a refresh bottom end and topend.
For you guys its harder to do the 2.8 because your cranks seem to create fouling with the block and pistons which is a PITA to modify.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Well said digger. Also, the stock combustion chamber on the "885 (i) is a bit bigger than the "200" (eta) which also accounts for a lower CR when putting an 885 head on an eta bottom end.Originally posted by BillBraskyE36's are the Stephen Baldwin of the 3 series family. They barely hold everything together and they only sold a lot because of the popularity of their older sibling.
1989 325i Cirrusblau - Daily
1970 2500 - Malaga over Grey Cloth
2012 F350 6.7PSD
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i swapped a I head on my aluminum M20 block and get 300+ rwhp
Boom-FREEDOM- is cruisin at 80, windows down and listening to the perfect song-thinking "this is it"
-The Beauty in the Tragedy-
MECHANIC SMASH!!- (you all know you do it)
Got Drop?? ;-)
Originally posted by JinormusJBut of course
E30s are know to be notoriously really really really ridiculously good looking
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