Car cranks but won't start - It started!!!!!!

[Gregs///M]

I doubt its the alarm, very rare do you see alarms interrupt the fuel pump circuits. Usually alarms interrupt the starter circuit but since your getting cranking, starter circuit is not interrupted by alarm.

I've installed literally thousands of alarms and only very few alarms interrupt fuel. Clifford Avantguard is the only 1 that I can think of, which is a $800 alarm. Its not the one you have.

However, pull the alarm brain out and see if there is a color code or schematic on the back. That will tell you, at least, what kind of inputs and outputs go to the alarm.

I would bust out the ETM or Bentely manual and check electrical signals at the ECM. There are large charts that outline what each electrical input to the DME should see.

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So I disconnected the alarms (see photos)

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More of alarm disconnections photos

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After disconnecting the alarm these are the wires I have left that I need to reconnect- but I need help to find out were I need to reconnect them. Also some of the wires from the alarm were hook up to the black fuse

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Finally there are some plugs I neeed to know where they need to be connected

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Can anyone post o photo of your car set up under the dash, so i can follow it.

[Gregs///M]

These photos do not say much. As you can tell tho, there are after market wires under your dash and OEM wires. Cut out any after market wires and connected your OEM wires together. You need to match OEM wires color for color.

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So I was able to traced back most of the wires from the alarm and yes they were aftermarket and they were slpiced with wires from the car. So I disconnected and make sure the wires of the car were not damage and tape it. The only one that I'm not sure about if it is correct on how is wire is the one on the photo (a relay). Would you please let me know which relay is this so I can rewire properly.

Next I try to start the car and it did not start same symptons. I checked if both of the fuel pumps made noise to see if they operate and had power but they do not. I think this is my problem. I cheked the fuse #11 and it is ok, the relay I changed it 3 times with other used I have and the car did not start.

I will get a brand new one to see if the others were bad unless there is a procedure on how to check the one I have. This is getting frustrated every day it pass with out starting it.

[Gregs///M]

Don't bother looking at the relay wires. Look at the color of OEM wires that the relay is connected to. It will become clear which was was "interrupted" by the starter relay, if that 's what it is.

Once you cut out the relay, including the after market wires, you will only be left with 2 wires, which will be the same color. This is most likely your "starter" wire but cannot confirm without looking at the car myself.

This should be your ignition and starter wires. All need to be complete without being interrupted by any relays.

Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Green Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Purple Ignition Switch Harness

Now if you complete all these you will be fully bypassed for ignition and stater. Since you found that your fuel pumps are not getting power, you can trace that circuit down. Read the ETM section or Bentley manual regarding troubleshooting fuel pump.

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Will follow your recommendation above. Otherwise I will end up with a huge paper weight park in the garage
Also found this article from BAVAUTO that helps you diagnose a no start.

http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/2007_n407_newsletter.pdf

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Ttt

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The aftermarket alarm is out and all cables are back to order. After further testing I need to do the following: (Test for 12 volts at terminal #30 in the fuel
pump relay socket. There should be continuous
12 volts regardless of key position) I do not know how to go about. Any help is appreciated
I believe I have a short or open circuit on #87 or #30 of the fuel relay.

Also the main relay gets hot. Is this normal?

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OK I give up. I need someone in the Sacramento area to help me. I'm broke right now but will give $50 for some help

The puzzle thing of this is that before the dash swap the car started and ran fine/great. Then I removed the dash and reconnect everything before final installing the new dash and everything work. It was right after installing the new dash and reconnecting all cables and harnesses that the no start problem came about. Any insights?

The only item i recalled that i did different on my dash swap was taht i did the 6 to 9 buttons OBC swap therefore i swap the corresponding old harness with the new one need it for the 9 button swap. I was reading that the OBC relay box could cause problem by no sending information to the DME. Is this correct?

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UPDATE>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
No spark on plugs or by coil. Coil primary is .9 ohms (bentley is .5) but my multimeter does not have or go lower and 5700 on secondary which bentley is 5000 and recomends to change the coil if any of these numbers are higher than the recommended.
Hower they still say it could be the ECU or wiring. How can I test the ECU? before getting a coil.

[Gregs///M]

The way I see it, the coil is much more likely to fail since its more susceptible to engine heat. Your coil primary seems quite off. Did the bentley manual give you an acceptable range for the coil resistance? Or did it just say replace if resistance is higher than listed value, if so I would just replace it.