89is wont start $50 to the person who figures it out

[maximapitko]

Here is a fresh one - check your timing. T-belt might have jumped on you a tooth. Let us know...

[GrimmSpeed]

I apologize for the laziness on this. I just replaced the filter and nothing has changed, will be moving on to DME testing now.

just buy a new Crank sensor and replace it!

and then you can pay me 50bucks

If you can show me a case where the sensor tested fine but was the cause for a no start i will replace it!

Here is a fresh one - check your timing. T-belt might have jumped on you a tooth. Let us know...

I did check and replace the timing belt, everything was in place and good

AFM. Check the electrical signals at the DME.
Also verify other inputs.

Let me know if you have more questions. PM me. I've performed all of these checks.

I will be trying this next!

[TS87325IS]

Sounds like the intank fuel pump is crapping out or done. I had those exact symptoms on my 87is . That is my guess.

[GrimmSpeed]

So i've tried testing a few of these and i'm not sure if i'm doing it right or if something is really wrong. What i have been doing it using the corresponding numbers on the ecu with the pins on the harness.


The multimeter was always set in ohms, tested each connection at both 200 and 200.

Tested pins 5,10,16 for the main grounds 14, 15 for fuel injector control and 8/27 for crank speed control. For each test the meter read 1 and never changed when each connection was made.

I've also tried the stomp test since i have a 173 ecu but wasn't able to get a light to flash.

AFM. Check the electrical signals at the DME.
Also verify other inputs.

Let me know if you have more questions. PM me. I've performed all of these checks.

[GrimmSpeed]

Sounds like the intank fuel pump is crapping out or done. I had those exact symptoms on my 87is . That is my guess.

With fuel pressure at a solid 45 psi would you still think this is possible? also after looking under my car it appears i have an external pump tucked under the chassis.

Mike

[Gregs///M]

So i've tried testing a few of these and i'm not sure if i'm doing it right or if something is really wrong. What i have been doing it using the corresponding numbers on the ecu with the pins on the harness.


The multimeter was always set in ohms, tested each connection at both 200 and 200.

Tested pins 5,10,16 for the main grounds 14, 15 for fuel injector control and 8/27 for crank speed control. For each test the meter read 1 and never changed when each connection was made.

I've also tried the stomp test since i have a 173 ecu but wasn't able to get a light to flash.

I recommend you take apart the connector going into the ECM. You can remove the black outer shell to expose the beige inners. PLug it back into the ECM and probe each pinout using the chart's testing procedure.

You must have your meter set up wrong. You need to set it to DC volts to measure any voltage in the chart. Use the continuity setting for testing grounds. A solid ground point on chassis will have continuity or near zero ohms relative to all solid brown wires on the ECM.

GO down the list and perform each test in the chart. Verify voltage and ground first, then fuel pump. Fuel pump will audibly turn on once that connection is grounded with a jumper wire.

A test light is good for the ignition coil test. The light should pulsate.
The rest of the tests involve testing resistance sensors. Make sure your meter has good batteries for those tests and be sure its on ohms or the Omega symbol.

So together with a test light, jumper, digital multi meter you should be able to perform all these tests and verify all system inputs to ECM. If all these tests perform OK then the problem can be an ECM output. Which requires swapping the ECM, but you did this already.

The wiring could very much be the problem. Someone could have easily connected wrong wires or sliced poorly. This is why its important to test inputs to the ECM.

I suggest you download the BMW electronic troubleshooting manual to brush up on your electronics skills. THey explain how to use a meter and its settings. The Bentley manual has a good electronics section but not as comprehensive at the ETM.

Good luck. and hope that helps.

[5Toes]

Is the engine flooding itself? my fuel pressure regulator went out, and it was just dumping way too much fuel. To start the car I would have to clamp the fuel line to the rail halfway with visegrips, then let it warm up and release them

Try that, it cant hurt.

[TS87325IS]

The intank pump feeds a low preasure high volume to the high preasure pump under the car. Being an 85 it has this set up. The high preasure one is still working and can supply enough to idle, but when you touch the gas, the intank acts as a restriction if its not working so the car dies. So yes it is posible, i had the same thing happen to me. If the external pump is not working, it will not even idle.

[GrimmSpeed]

Is the engine flooding itself? my fuel pressure regulator went out, and it was just dumping way too much fuel. To start the car I would have to clamp the fuel line to the rail halfway with visegrips, then let it warm up and release them

Try that, it cant hurt.

I'll give it a shot but the regulator is brand new and pressure is still exactly where it should be.

I recommend you take apart the connector going into the ECM. You can remove the black outer shell to expose the beige inners. PLug it back into the ECM and probe each pinout using the chart's testing procedure.

You must have your meter set up wrong. You need to set it to DC volts to measure any voltage in the chart. Use the continuity setting for testing grounds. A solid ground point on chassis will have continuity or near zero ohms relative to all solid brown wires on the ECM.

GO down the list and perform each test in the chart. Verify voltage and ground first, then fuel pump. Fuel pump will audibly turn on once that connection is grounded with a jumper wire.

A test light is good for the ignition coil test. The light should pulsate.
The rest of the tests involve testing resistance sensors. Make sure your meter has good batteries for those tests and be sure its on ohms or the Omega symbol.

So together with a test light, jumper, digital multi meter you should be able to perform all these tests and verify all system inputs to ECM. If all these tests perform OK then the problem can be an ECM output. Which requires swapping the ECM, but you did this already.

The wiring could very much be the problem. Someone could have easily connected wrong wires or sliced poorly. This is why its important to test inputs to the ECM.

I suggest you download the BMW electronic troubleshooting manual to brush up on your electronics skills. THey explain how to use a meter and its settings. The Bentley manual has a good electronics section but not as comprehensive at the ETM.

Good luck. and hope that helps.

I'll have some free time after work tomorrow to do some reading and look into this a little more!

Mike

[lcoleman]

Since you have spark, I would probably rule out the crank sensor. I think you need an oscilloscope to test it properly.

It would take one heck of a vacuum leak to cause the car to not even try to fire. My guess is injector wiring is damaged, missing, or backwards since you have good fuel pressure. I would bust out the fine-tooth comb on that.

[einstein57]

You probably have the 89 i harness. They have the injector harness in a long plastic housing where they all clip on at once. The connector on those is known for corroding. Take it off and spray everything with contact cleaner.

[Gregs///M]

Another thing common with E30's. The owner trying to start it up with short crank times. Sometimes, when my e30 was not running good, it would not start either. Flooding symptoms. I just crank the starter over for around 10 seconds. It eventually fires up.

[5Toes]

Take a test light and a 6 inch long piece of 18 gauge or so wire.

Strip both ends of the wire, and clamp one to the negative ground on the test light

Remove the fuel injector connector harness, and shove that piece of wire into one of the connectors (it doesnt matter). Now stick the tip of the test light in the hole right next to it and have somebody crank the car

You should see extremely fast pulses of light, though they a very dim. Try to do this at night so you can see them

If you dont get the lights, then check your wiring and try again

[TS87325IS]

Did yall miss the part where he said it idles but when he touches the gas it dies?

[lcoleman]

Did you miss the part where it hasn't started in two weeks? lol

I would just use a proper noid light, but 5Toes gives good advice here.