Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Overheating

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Here is how I bleed an e30 cooling system

    go get a BMX bike innertube. Cut it open directly across from the valve stem. Tie one end in a knot.

    Now get the cooling system as full as you can. Open the thermostat bleeder and squeeze all the hoses trying to massage the air out.

    Now slip the other end of the innertube over the radiator cap and get a bicycle hand pump. Pump the system up to like 8psi or so.

    You should see a steady stream of water coming out of the thermostat bleeder. No sign of any air coming out. Push through a fair amount of water. Close the bleeder.

    Pull the innertube off and fill the expansion tank back up.

    Stick inntertube back on. Im not sure if you have an early or alte model, but on ym late model I then pull the little hose off the nipple on the top driver side of the raditator and do the same thing. I push through a good amount of wtaer then stick it back on.

    Now fill the expansion tank back up and start the car (make sure the heater dial is all the way to hot). Drive it around and let it get up to temp. Once it is, open the thermostat bleeder again and let it idle for like 30 seconds. Close it up then you are done.

    hope this helps

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
      Here is how I bleed an e30 cooling system

      go get a BMX bike innertube. Cut it open directly across from the valve stem. Tie one end in a knot.

      Now get the cooling system as full as you can. Open the thermostat bleeder and squeeze all the hoses trying to massage the air out.

      Now slip the other end of the innertube over the radiator cap and get a bicycle hand pump. Pump the system up to like 8psi or so.

      You should see a steady stream of water coming out of the thermostat bleeder. No sign of any air coming out. Push through a fair amount of water. Close the bleeder.

      Pull the innertube off and fill the expansion tank back up.

      Stick inntertube back on. Im not sure if you have an early or alte model, but on ym late model I then pull the little hose off the nipple on the top driver side of the raditator and do the same thing. I push through a good amount of wtaer then stick it back on.

      Now fill the expansion tank back up and start the car (make sure the heater dial is all the way to hot). Drive it around and let it get up to temp. Once it is, open the thermostat bleeder again and let it idle for like 30 seconds. Close it up then you are done.

      hope this helps
      No innertube required
      - Josh
      1990 325is

      Need a shift boot?
      Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell

      Here's what happens when you let the internet pick your license plate

      Comment


        #18
        this method works good for what it is. Learned about it from e30.de

        pressure bleeding is common with shops

        Comment


          #19
          Agreed, I've bled enough systems to know the inner tube isn't required. Interesting though as I haven't tried it. I have done the bleeding from the rad overflow nipple. this also works quite well.
          sigpic

          Comment


            #20
            Both methods are very effective. My driveway is extremely steep... like 30 degrees or so. so I can bleed an e30 goooood. lol

            Comment


              #21
              I drilled a hole in the last tstat I installed only to find out the OE stat I removed had factory hole in it. There is no down side to a properly placed 1\16 hole and both the cars I did this on in the last year, self bled in minutes without any of the gymnastics I read about.

              Just my 2c
              Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
              Alice the Time Capsule
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
              87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

              Comment


                #22
                i personally drilled a hole in my t-stat, worked great no bleeding problems at all done in 5 mins, but AIRLIFT tool works great
                sigpicFellow e30 enthusiast
                Dont waste your time hating, aint nobody got time fo dat
                1986 bronzit 325es- SOLD
                1987 delphin 325i- parts car
                1990 scwarz 325is- m50 drift slut
                CHECK OUT THE BUILD!
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=229234

                Comment


                  #23
                  Here's a new thought: is the car actually overheating or just getting hot? On my car 3/4ths max temp is actually within normal operating parameters, the gauge is just flaky and I don't worry until it gets into the red.

                  You can use one of those infrared thermometers to find out what the real engine temp is. If it hits 92C and the aux an doesn't come on then you have a problem, otherwise just a micheavous gremlin.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by IAmGary View Post
                    Here's a new thought: is the car actually overheating or just getting hot? On my car 3/4ths max temp is actually within normal operating parameters, the gauge is just flaky and I don't worry until it gets into the red.

                    You can use one of those infrared thermometers to find out what the real engine temp is. If it hits 92C and the aux an doesn't come on then you have a problem, otherwise just a micheavous gremlin.

                    Replace your SI board or batteries.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X