If the head is in good condition, you can use 0.006" for the intakes and 0.008" for the exhausts. That gives fractionally more valve opening and a slightly longer duration, yielding slightly better performance. Not that you'd be able to tell from driving, but it will show up on the dyno.
If you don't have a spring tool, the problem in adjusting the valves is the subjective judgement as to how much drag on the feeler is correct. With a spring tool the results are the same every time. As a bonus using a spring is way faster.
If you don't have a spring tool, the problem in adjusting the valves is the subjective judgement as to how much drag on the feeler is correct. With a spring tool the results are the same every time. As a bonus using a spring is way faster.
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