m20 valve tick

[digger]

there is a spring loaded tool that helps with setting lash its cheap and saves time dicking around
http://www.sirtools.com/bm3013.jpg

http://www.sirtools.com/bmw_page_2.htm

[e30vert]

I struggled with that at first as well. What I did was remove the .010 feeler gauge from the rest of the feeler gauges so I could use it as a single blade. Then I manually bent it so it was curved. Then I rotated the eccentrics till they were TIGHT on the feeler gauge . Then I tightened the nut that secures the eccentric just slightly. So I could still move the eccentrics , but they were'nt floppy and loose. Then I could use a small Allen key to rotate the eccentrics until I got that slight amount of drag needed without being too tight or loose.
Then I just held the eccentric in place with the Allen key and tightened the nut all the way up.

[jjjjj]

Well I started the engine and heard that the valve tick was worse and thought I must have used the wrong feeler gauge . Then jumped online to use the metric (mm) conversion to inches and determined that .25 mm equates to .010 inches and the light bulb went off and I thought I do have a .010 feeler gauge so I must need to use that. Inspected the thickness and sure enough the .010 gauge was thinner than the .25 gauge . So thats when I knew. Readjusted the valves using the new gauge and results are much better. Plus it was confirmed by Digger here on the forum so that solidified it. Car was not driven and remained at rough idle for a short duration so no discernable damage was done. No knocks, etc

Great, happy to hear nothing was messed up. The proper amount of "drag" on the gauge has always given me a hard time. I think one of my valve stem seals might be bad, because there's a valve that always ticks a lot louder than the rest of them.

[e30vert]

You did think about it again and just typo'd, right? Correct feeler gauge is 0.10"/0.25mm, not the 0.025mm as you stated.

Well I started the engine and heard that the valve tick was worse and thought I must have used the wrong feeler gauge . Then jumped online to use the metric (mm) conversion to inches and determined that .25 mm equates to .010 inches and the light bulb went off and I thought I do have a .010 feeler gauge so I must need to use that. Inspected the thickness and sure enough the .010 gauge was thinner than the .25 gauge . So thats when I knew. Readjusted the valves using the new gauge and results are much better. Plus it was confirmed by Digger here on the forum so that solidified it. Car was not driven and remained at rough idle for a short duration so no discernable damage was done. No knocks, etc

[jjjjj]

Thought about it and relaized that my feeler gauges were marked in inches and not millimeters so that I needed to use the 0.010 as that equates to .025 mm .

You did think about it again and just typo'd, right? Correct feeler gauge is 0.10"/0.25mm, not the 0.025mm as you stated.

[e30vert]

0.25mm or 0.010" is the correct value.

0.025mm and 0.025" (as you dont mention units) are both wrong regardless of unit and needs to be redone immediately

Thanks Mucho for the reply. When I fired the engine up and the valve tick was way worse I figured that I had used the wrong feeler gauge. Thought about it and relaized that my feeler gauges were marked in inches and not millimeters so that I needed to use the 0.010 as that equates to .025 mm . Only ran briefly and have already readjusted the valves last evening. Just need to reassemble.

Good to have the input!

[digger]

I just spent the afternoon adjusting my intake and exhaust valves for each cylinder . Used a .025 feeler gauge. I assume that is the correct gap? The feeler gauge says .025 on it and not 0.25. Its a standard feeler gauge set that includes the .025. Ive still got a ticking , but my oil level is a little low. Im gonna top it up and see if that helps quiet it down.
Each of the valve lash that I measured was tight before I adjusted them. Thats probably to be expected as the valves wear into the valve seats over the many years of use.

0.25mm or 0.010" is the correct value.

0.025mm and 0.025" (as you dont mention units) are both wrong regardless of unit and needs to be redone immediately

[e30vert]

I just spent the afternoon adjusting my intake and exhaust valves for each cylinder . Used a .025 feeler gauge. I assume that is the correct gap? The feeler gauge says .025 on it and not 0.25. Its a standard feeler gauge set that includes the .025. Ive still got a ticking , but my oil level is a little low. Im gonna top it up and see if that helps quiet it down.
Each of the valve lash that I measured was tight before I adjusted them. Thats probably to be expected as the valves wear into the valve seats over the many years of use.

[nando]

Hearing a lot of ppl call m20s the sewing machines but my m20b23 with 731 head idles like a Toyota Corolla, I believe the ticking issue is with the 885 head.

Aside from the casting and camshaft, the rest of it is basically identical. so that seems like a pretty far-fetched claim. And even the castings aren't really that unique, they are almost certainly based on the original design from the 1970's.

[digger]

way back when my 885 head was quiet as a mouse with new everything (many rebuilds are not new everything) so i cant see any of the different castings being different, many people confuse the valve lash take-up noise with the injectors which do make a ticking sound

[ADEN]

Hearing a lot of ppl call m20s the sewing machines but my m20b23 with 731 head idles like a Toyota Corolla, I believe the ticking issue is with the 885 head.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Bumping an Old thread. M20's tick. that's what they do. Good Ol' sewing machines. I have a new head from BimmerHeads, with adjusted valves, and I run 20w50 oil. They tick. It's part of their charm.

[ButtJuice]

Damn that sounded like a sewing machine..

[EatsHondas]

well I was thinking maybe a exhaust leak that is adding to the ticking? anyone got any insight?

Very possible, but don't count on fixing a leak and completely getting rid of the ticking. In my experience, exhaust leaks are easiest to hear when the engine is cold (more clearance between the exhaust sections and their gaskets), running at low rpm, and high load (foot to the floor). If the ticking sounds louder when you try the above conditions, you've got an exhaust leak.

If you'd like to SEE a possible exhaust leak, suck in some Seafoam through the vacuum line that runs from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator. White smoke will come out of any leaky spots.

[mod_junkie]

well I was thinking maybe a exhaust leak that is adding to the ticking? anyone got any insight?