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Best spark plug for e30?

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    #16
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    I use the BPR6ES too, as a side benefit to working well, they are cheap as dirt and i can go to any small redneck autoparts store in town and find them.

    For a stock engine the equivalent would be BPR5ES
    ive never gapped them either not sure if im supposed to lol

    i dont know what the difference between the ZGR5A that is recommended over the BPR5ES's which i've also used.
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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      #17
      No interest in E3's?
      Originally Posted by Exodus
      He also kept asking why someone local didn't just go to the guys house and break his kneecaps, as they would do in Romania. He couldn't understand how us Americans are so laid back about shit like this.

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        #18
        Originally posted by digger View Post
        they changed the p/n for the B25 bosch plugs at one point W8LCR and then WR8LC or something along those lines.....was apparently still the same plug or newer version but 100% compatible they said
        Yeah I know they changed the plugs and "enhanced" the plugs by changing the metal content. I read a post by levie explaining it, and I didnt believe at first how much of a difference it would actually make. But, from my experience the older version does perform better.
        I love that people ask stupid questions so I dont have.

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          #19
          So who here with modified naturally aspirated M20 gaps their plugs?

          i run BPR6ES on my stroker which uses stock dizzy, coil and OEM style leads with Aftermarket ECU. engine makes quite a bit more cylinder pressure than stock engine and i have chosen one step colder plug. interwebs says i will need smaller gap but never actually gaped them.....

          out of the box IIRC the NGK are about 0.9 to 1.0mm and the handbook says 0.7-0.8 mm for the M20. so in effect i have increased the gap where theory is i should be closing it up with the stock ignition due to mods.

          while i cant say ive noticed a major problem (other than those traced to problems with the spark plug leads) this does not really mean much as from seat of pants you might hear knock or feel a missfire there are other problems that may not be perceived. i do keep the ignition system in top shape and regulatory change plugs, cap rotor and coil

          i realise that a bigger gap is better if the system is capable of providing the correct spark
          other experiences?
          Last edited by digger; 08-18-2013, 03:53 PM.
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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            #20
            I run the same plugs, I just gap them to stock specs.. no issues. I think the type of coil you are using matters too, a stronger coil can jump a larger gap.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

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              #21
              if you run a CDI system it would make sense to run bigger gap to get more exposure. i might try gaping them down to 0.8mm to see if there is any perceived difference in engine behavior.
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by digger View Post
                if you run a CDI system it would make sense to run bigger gap to get more exposure. i might try gaping them down to 0.8mm to see if there is any perceived difference in engine behavior.
                what did you find out? any difference with oem gap spec?

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