Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

M20 EBay ITB's + Turbo DD project

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    M20 EBay ITB's + Turbo DD project

    Hey all,

    I sent a similar email to KAMOTORS but just in case they can't contact me anytime soon...

    Im pretty much trying to do a M20 setup I haven't seen before. Since there isn't much information on a setup like this, I wanted to see if I could get some of you guy's opinons.

    I've had my E30 for about 9 months now, and I have the itch for more N/A power. I've done all of the basic mods myself and am tapped out as far as engine work is concerned. I've done exhaust, performance chip paired with Stang injectors, engine parts replacement/rebuild, tune up, etc.

    So, I'm preparing to buy the ITB's by the end of the month. Once I get that all installed and get some tuning experience, I'm going to go boosted + methanol injection.

    I'm still riding on OEM brakes with SS line, race pads, slotted rotors upgrades. Do I need to go 4 piston? 5 Lug? So I can properly stop the extra power?

    What kind of ECU tune is available that's cheaper than Megasquirt?

    Do you have any information on M20 ITB setups? Would it pair well with a turbo?

    I want to start at low boost, so 8-12 and upgrade the turbo unit/wastegate later. What would be the most effective and cost efficient?

    Any information would be greatly appreciated.
    Alpine White 87 325is

    Follow my build via Instagram: @SmplxCulture


    #2
    Bumpty bump.
    Alpine White 87 325is

    Follow my build via Instagram: @SmplxCulture

    Comment


      #3
      Big consideration is how much power you're looking for. Turbo M20s without ITBs and stock internals often put down 300-350 WHP which is already about as much as you'd wanna try to put down even with fat rear tires on our cars. After that point I think it would be more enjoyable to have less power if anything.

      If you just want more NA power, Racehead ITBs have been giving their owners fantastic results. Look around the build threads and you'll see the evidence.

      Both at the same time would get many thumbs up but I can't recommend being the one to fund it unless you have the will to do it.

      Most cost effective way is always having the desired power goal defined from the start. Whatever your goal is, a turbo build can get you there, and there have been enough successful ones that we can probably find you a replica match for your idea in a completed build. Unless you're set on Turbo + ITBs, this car is proof that you'll get your dose of insanity without that combo.

      Comment


        #4
        We race on stock brakes, and they hold up ok.

        Get that motor goin' and then do the brakes afterwards if they turn out to need help.

        They're easy, compared to the engine...

        t
        now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by BlancoEDurty View Post
          I'm still riding on OEM brakes with SS line, race pads, slotted rotors upgrades. Do I need to go 4 piston? 5 Lug? So I can properly stop the extra power?
          if you're running track pads, stopping shouldn't be a big issue, but pad/rotor life will likely be.
          Loads of options for bigger brakes, 4 lug or 5.

          Originally posted by BlancoEDurty View Post
          What kind of ECU tune is available that's cheaper than Megasquirt?
          Nothing that's going to be worth it. MS is as cheap as it gets unless you want to try to run the stock DME with a chip and accept all the additional risks there.

          Originally posted by BlancoEDurty View Post
          Do you have any information on M20 ITB setups?
          The RHD ITB's seem to be the bee's knees right now. Way cheaper than other options, but they also seem to be much less of a compromise and better sized than other more expensive kits

          Originally posted by BlancoEDurty View Post
          Would it pair well with a turbo?
          Anything is possible, but ITBs add an extra level of complexity to set up and sort out.


          Originally posted by BlancoEDurty View Post
          I want to start at low boost, so 8-12 and upgrade the turbo unit/wastegate later. What would be the most effective and cost efficient?
          I assume you're asking "what turbo" to start?
          I'd take it slow and look at other build threads that are similar to what you want and mimic something that resembles what you want.
          Originally posted by priapism
          My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
          Originally posted by shameson
          Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Northern View Post


            Nothing that's going to be worth it. MS is as cheap as it gets unless you want to try to run the stock DME with a chip and accept all the additional risks there.
            Unless you have a plenum and use an AFM, there's no way Motronic 1.3 is going to run ITB's. I know because I tried and have a far better understanding of the stock ECU's than most. Tried it on two cars, failed both times, and both cars ended up with Whodwho's PNP's. One was an Extrudabody kit, the second attempt was with the RHD kit.

            On a side note, if you are fairly nifty in wiring and DIY, if you can swap in an e36 ECU (413 etc) and get it to run on your m20, then it is a much easier task. My e36 has ITB's and runs like stock - well - until you stab the gas pedal. Man that noise is orgasmic :)
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by whitebulat22 View Post
              Big consideration is how much power you're looking for. Turbo M20s without ITBs and stock internals often put down 300-350 WHP which is already about as much as you'd wanna try to put down even with fat rear tires on our cars. After that point I think it would be more enjoyable to have less power if anything.

              If you just want more NA power, Racehead ITBs have been giving their owners fantastic results. Look around the build threads and you'll see the evidence.

              Both at the same time would get many thumbs up but I can't recommend being the one to fund it unless you have the will to do it.

              Most cost effective way is always having the desired power goal defined from the start. Whatever your goal is, a turbo build can get you there, and there have been enough successful ones that we can probably find you a replica match for your idea in a completed build. Unless you're set on Turbo + ITBs, this car is proof that you'll get your dose of insanity without that combo.
              Im aimming for 350 at the wheels. Im running 16x9 squared fitment but will go with a staggered setup of 15x9.5/15x10.5 later this year. I'm obsessed with ITB's and will most certainly have the will power to install/tune it and I have the funds.

              I've seen the Raceheads and they seem like a great pickup but there arent too many people running them with more experience tips or reviews.
              I'm pretty much set on ITB's but I have the feeling I will want an even more setup by the end of summer lol.



              Originally posted by TobyB View Post
              We race on stock brakes, and they hold up ok.

              Get that motor goin' and then do the brakes afterwards if they turn out to need help.

              They're easy, compared to the engine...

              t
              When you say stock brakes, you mean everything OEM? Rubber brake lines, facrtory rotors, calipers and pads?

              Im running SS lines, and CAtuned Stoptech brake kit. Although I didnt feel much of a difference after installation. Also, my ABS light stays on...maybe that has something to do with it?

              My engine is totally healthy and ready for this crazy setup I have in mind.
              Alpine White 87 325is

              Follow my build via Instagram: @SmplxCulture

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Northern View Post
                if you're running track pads, stopping shouldn't be a big issue, but pad/rotor life will likely be.
                Loads of options for bigger brakes, 4 lug or 5.


                Nothing that's going to be worth it. MS is as cheap as it gets unless you want to try to run the stock DME with a chip and accept all the additional risks there.


                The RHD ITB's seem to be the bee's knees right now. Way cheaper than other options, but they also seem to be much less of a compromise and better sized than other more expensive kits


                Anything is possible, but ITBs add an extra level of complexity to set up and sort out.



                I assume you're asking "what turbo" to start?
                I'd take it slow and look at other build threads that are similar to what you want and mimic something that resembles what you want.
                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                Unless you have a plenum and use an AFM, there's no way Motronic 1.3 is going to run ITB's. I know because I tried and have a far better understanding of the stock ECU's than most. Tried it on two cars, failed both times, and both cars ended up with Whodwho's PNP's. One was an Extrudabody kit, the second attempt was with the RHD kit.

                On a side note, if you are fairly nifty in wiring and DIY, if you can swap in an e36 ECU (413 etc) and get it to run on your m20, then it is a much easier task. My e36 has ITB's and runs like stock - well - until you stab the gas pedal. Man that noise is orgasmic :)

                Bummer. So it seems I'm goint to have to dish out the money for a standalone unit.
                Would the M20 run 'okay' with the ITB setup installed before I can grab a unit? Or will I have to install everything at once?
                So you fitted the e36 ECU and ITB's to your M20?
                Alpine White 87 325is

                Follow my build via Instagram: @SmplxCulture

                Comment


                  #9
                  i would use the RHD manifold and use a fabricated plenum with single throttle body. doubt the added complexity of ITB on a FI setup would be worth it
                  89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                  new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by BlancoEDurty View Post
                    Bummer. So it seems I'm goint to have to dish out the money for a standalone unit.
                    Would the M20 run 'okay' with the ITB setup installed before I can grab a unit? Or will I have to install everything at once?
                    So you fitted the e36 ECU and ITB's to your M20?
                    It will "run" but it's a very involved process and it will never run proper. Maybe for a race only engine, but don't expect anything to work besides WOT. It won't idle or daily drive, or you can get it to idle and falls on it's face when WOT. We spent several days trying to get the stock ECU to run them and we have years of experience hacking Motronic. You would need an emulator at the least ($175) to get even that far, just drop the few more hundred and get the P&P.


                    No, I have ITB's on my m50 in my e36. People have used the m50 ECU on m20's in the past and was implying if you swap in the e36 system, it is much easier to hack the ECU to run them, but you will still need an emulator and a good background in tuning. Again it took me a few days of messing with the ECU to get the to run right, then went to the dyno and spent more time tuning.
                    john@m20guru.com
                    Links:
                    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                    Comment


                      #11
                      best way is do it all at once to minimise the tuning time
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                        It will "run" but it's a very involved process and it will never run proper. Maybe for a race only engine, but don't expect anything to work besides WOT. It won't idle or daily drive, or you can get it to idle and falls on it's face when WOT. We spent several days trying to get the stock ECU to run them and we have years of experience hacking Motronic. You would need an emulator at the least ($175) to get even that far, just drop the few more hundred and get the P&P.


                        No, I have ITB's on my m50 in my e36. People have used the m50 ECU on m20's in the past and was implying if you swap in the e36 system, it is much easier to hack the ECU to run them, but you will still need an emulator and a good background in tuning. Again it took me a few days of messing with the ECU to get the to run right, then went to the dyno and spent more time tuning.
                        Originally posted by digger View Post
                        best way is do it all at once to minimise the tuning time

                        Thank you both. I will be sourcing a standalone and doing more research on the P&P unit. What else are you running with your ITB setup? Injectors? Cam? Adjustable Cam Gear? Which exhaust are you running?
                        Alpine White 87 325is

                        Follow my build via Instagram: @SmplxCulture

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X