Metric Mechanic 2900 Sport

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  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by jneumss
    I think I'll just start piecing a MS system together, unfortunately, I have been spending all my money on my FJ. I had the idea in my head that it was best to get it running optimally on Motronic before moving ahead to MS or other standalone. Would it be possible that the fuel pressure is causing that hesitation? It's hard for me to think that because it makes good, smooth power from 3k and up.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    You need to make sure everything is working properly regardless.

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  • nando
    replied
    neat, I knew about the Ostritch but didn't know it worked with Motronic. Why would anyone use a WAR chip (which can't be tuned in real-time)?

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    it's too bad there's no easy way to use an EEPROM on Motronic (the WAR chip sortof is, but the software is crap).



    Huh?





    Motronic is super easy with TunerPro and can be tuned real-time.

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  • jneumss
    replied
    I think I'll just start piecing a MS system together, unfortunately, I have been spending all my money on my FJ. I had the idea in my head that it was best to get it running optimally on Motronic before moving ahead to MS or other standalone. Would it be possible that the fuel pressure is causing that hesitation? It's hard for me to think that because it makes good, smooth power from 3k and up.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    it's too bad there's no easy way to use an EEPROM on Motronic (the WAR chip sortof is, but the software is crap).

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Actually from a fuel point of view if you ignore emissions and economy which on a high performance engine is not always a big deal then a good carb is very hard to beat.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by digger
    The solution is to just not use motronic and have full control over the icv, ignition timing and idle rpm. I recommend about 900-950rpm. This addresses the bulk of the issue but you'll still have the common plenum and Cross talking between cylinders which can be fixed with a set of itb lol



    Motronic shouldn't be dismissed totally. It's a step above jets on a carb and points on a diizzy. Quite programmable.

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  • digger
    replied
    The solution is to just not use motronic and have full control over the icv, ignition timing and idle rpm. I recommend about 900-950rpm. This addresses the bulk of the issue but you'll still have the common plenum and Cross talking between cylinders which can be fixed with a set of itb lol

    Leave a comment:


  • redlightpete
    replied
    Originally posted by jneumss
    Sorry I never replied to you. That is exactly what I did. Were you able to solve your issue with your low idle?

    I am still struggling with a hesitation from off idle up to approximately 2800 rpm, but my idle is right around 700 to 750 rpm. My hope is to get the car running perfectly on the SSSquid chip and then piecing together a MS unit.
    Still have the low/rough idle issue. I need to check the fuel pressure and hook up a wide-band to verify what's up with the mixture. If both those check out, I'll try to follow up with SSSquid, as I'm not sure why the ECU wouldn't be forcing it to idle at 800 as the chip is supposed to be set.

    So far I haven't found anyone that says they have a good idle running the Schrick 284/272 with the stock AFM. Judging by how much a tight valve adjustment affects the idle on a stock motor, it's not surprising that the AFM would be unhappy with the bigger cam.

    I don't have any issues with hesitation at lower revs, though it does feel like it has a bit of a lean surge cruising at very small throttle openings (made more obvious by the loose old drivetrain).

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  • jneumss
    replied
    Originally posted by redlightpete
    So, did you adjust the throttle plate to a 0.0015" gap, per the Bentley manual, or use some other method? Just curious because my 2.8 stroker with a sssquid chip also idles roughly at approximately 650 rpm. I've checked that the TPS has continuity at idle, and I set the throttle plate at 0.0015". Thanks
    Sorry I never replied to you. That is exactly what I did. Were you able to solve your issue with your low idle?

    I am still struggling with a hesitation from off idle up to approximately 2800 rpm, but my idle is right around 700 to 750 rpm. My hope is to get the car running perfectly on the SSSquid chip and then piecing together a MS unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • redlightpete
    replied
    Originally posted by jneumss
    Ahhh, yes. I adjusted the TB according to the Bentley using a 0.0015 feeler gauge. However, I did see another method is to unplug the ICV and set the idle to 950 rpm by adjusting the small set screw on the TB.

    I'll try this tonight.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


    So, did you adjust the throttle plate to a 0.0015" gap, per the Bentley manual, or use some other method? Just curious because my 2.8 stroker with a sssquid chip also idles roughly at approximately 650 rpm. I've checked that the TPS has continuity at idle, and I set the throttle plate at 0.0015". Thanks

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  • jneumss
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    The ECU adjusts idle, he adjusted the throttle switch. It has slotted screw mounts ans it should click at idle and click at WOT. Even if they "click", they should be tested for continuity since the breather hose tends to leak oil on them and they go bad. Two of the pins should be shorted at idle, two of them at WOT, and all 3 should be open in any other position.
    And it's worth noting that I messed with the throttle stop during engine break in to lock the idle at 2500rpm. I just never returned it to the stock position properly, so my TPS was not allowed to actuate the idle switch.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by redlightpete
    How did you adjust the idle?

    The ECU adjusts idle, he adjusted the throttle switch. It has slotted screw mounts ans it should click at idle and click at WOT. Even if they "click", they should be tested for continuity since the breather hose tends to leak oil on them and they go bad. Two of the pins should be shorted at idle, two of them at WOT, and all 3 should be open in any other position.

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  • redlightpete
    replied
    How did you adjust the idle?

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Originally posted by jneumss
    I also passed emissions.
    sooooo now to the dyno? ;D

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