284 cam too much for a 2.5L M20?

[ForcedFirebird]

some serious quality issues around some of them are major

my RHD292 cam was on the money but had some advance built in but not an issue with adjustable camgear

Yes, and seems to be an issue with BMW vendors more than any other I have dealt with, and not sure the reasoning behind it. We use Comp Cams for the domestic stuff, have a lobe library of over 5000 variations, and the cards are spot on - but we also tell them a lobe number, ICL and LSA which they grind out of a new cast core.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

More than double if you shop around....

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schrick-parts/schrick-camshaft-284-degree/05601840-00/

Valve Springs necessary or good insurance?

Personally. Id test the valve springs to make sure they are in spec and run them with some HD rockers you should be good to go. Would need a machine shop to test them though they have to be compressed and see how much force it takes to compress them and compare that with specs from BMW

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Yes, and seems to be an issue with BMW vendors more than any other I have dealt with, and not sure the reasoning behind it. We use Comp Cams for the domestic stuff, have a lobe library of over 5000 variations, and the cards are spot on - but we also tell them a lobe number, ICL and LSA which they grind out of a new cast core.

Sliding foot probably makes it more complicated

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My Schrick 288 also has about 4 degrees advance built in it. It cannot be used without a an adjustable cam gear.

Would depend on piston and relief sizes

[ForcedFirebird]

Actually in Europe we've got 100 octane fuel which will equate > 94 octane in the US. Additionally, the 100 octane normally comes with about 7% ethanol in it. Furthermore, methanol is easily accessible and you can get up to 20% of it mixed with the 100 octane fuel.

Dyno's are tools for comparison "before/after", not a precision measuring tool. Go measure a car at a DynoJet dyno and afterwards at a Mustang dyno and then tell me which number is the right one?

Our pump gas is 10% ethanol at 93 octane (unless you find a "pure gas" station) for the most part, quite a few stores here have up to 98 octane at 10% ethanol - and up to 85% ethanol.

Rare, but we have some fueling stations (76 brand) that sells 100, 108, 110 octane, and even c16 through the pumps.

As far as the dyno, been using the same conservative DynoJet for about 5 years. It's calibrated often since it's a verification center for NASA Racing for HP:WT classes, so yes, while my numbers are valid against my numbers, it's in a controlled environment from one build to the next. Same with the flow bench, although the flow bench community has "pass around plates" we can all calibrate our benches against, but still best to have tests done on the same piece of equipment with the same operator.

[2mAn]

John you need to start a Dyno thread for the M20 to compliment Daves 24v and more dyno thread....

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[ThatOneEuroE30]

The best "dyno" for a car is the 1/4 mile strip. Before and after. Same tires, same driver, same conditions. Upgraded engine. And there you can easily calculate what HP gain is achieved.

I don't believe in dyno numbers.

Cheers.

You don’t but seems the rest of the world does. Dyno is better because you can have more control over the environment. Its nearly impossible to make the same pass over and over again. Also if 1/4 pass is best dyno then how come everyone that does street tuning usually hit up the dyno to dial it in the rest of the way?

[apostate]

What about ram air intake and cooling? Or you think that can be accounted for at a dyno stand?
If you think dyno numbers will get you into the real world then you are wrong.
To your question, why everyone uses a dyno for fine tuning - it's obvious, the dyno is a comparison tool, but not a tool to measure real HP.

[MrBurgundy]

What about ram air intake and cooling? Or you think that can be accounted for at a dyno stand?
If you think dyno numbers will get you into the real world then you are wrong.
To your question, why everyone uses a dyno for fine tuning - it's obvious, the dyno is a comparison tool, but not a tool to measure real HP.

By definition a dynometer is an instrument that measures power output, so you're wrong on that, buddy.

Also, If I run my car down the strip, am I going to know how much HP my car made? No..

A dyno is the best way to measure an engines performance. It's a controlled environment.


This prostate guy is always shitting in threads....

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[ForcedFirebird]

The best "dyno" for a car is the 1/4 mile strip. Before and after. Same tires, same driver, same conditions. Upgraded engine. And there you can easily calculate what HP gain is achieved.
I don't believe in dyno numbers.
Cheers.

Not true in the least. Look at the Pure Stock Class in NHRA. Any cam/springs are allowed without machining the pockets, stock head and rotating assembly, weight is based on displacement, but torque converters are open. So, you put a car with a 4k stall in it on the dyno, make a run and your numbers will be all screwey, but let me tell you 1/4mi runs calculated to HP based on weight and trap speeds is a joke. I have seen 10" tire 3800cc powered Firebird run a 12 flat in pure stock. Based on the "1/4mi dyno", this should be a ~350whp car at 2700lb, but he is about 100whp short of that - yet nails a 1.3 60' with one wheel up. The 1320 is make or break in the short times.

Sliding foot probably makes it more complicated

Any flat tapped push rod is also sliding, and limits the domestic ramp rates as well as the friction surfaces requiring zinc (much like the m20).

[MrBurgundy]

Then tell me, buddy, what is your HP and torque at the crank using dyno data?
And what dyno, DynoJet, Mustang, other?

wtf lol

A dyno tells you much more that what the max power output is... and who the fuk cares about crank HP?

You're missing the point and throwing this read off topic.