1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

[david2991]

So I have completed a 2.7i motor swap and the tach and temp. on the swapped 7k cluster do not work. Any ideas? I have swapped in a 325i temp sensor as well.

[Aviator]

Sorry if this has been addressed already but I didn't see it. My friend said he built one using a 2.7 e block and crank with I pistons and I 885 head. And I intake. Not sure on anything else right now. I guess he had to modify the I pistons, and he decked the block 1mm. Anybody here ever go this route?

[efficient]

anyone know what this wire is or does and goes to?
its a red/brown wire that comes off the dme wire harness from a 1987 325is. i dont know where its supposed to go in my 86 325es.

Untitled by clean3two3, on Flickr

Untitled by clean3two3, on Flickr
anyone? t.i.a!

[efficient]

Any thoughts?

[bmwm42]

if i do this update on my eta....would i then be able to use any getreg trans?

[crazyman]

Just did this and Holy crap is it awesome. Car is way better then before, thanks for the write up.

[dsphil]

2.7i CR question

Would there be any problems if I use "I" head, "E" rods, "E" crank, and "I" pistons. What CR this will achieve?
anyone have information on the 200 and 885 head chamber volume? not the total combustion chamber volume based on CR. Just the head chamber volume.

[Mr. Tasty]

if i do this update on my eta....would i then be able to use any getreg trans?

what.....

[Regnar75]

side notes

Just some random notes. I ran into some issues and it took me a lot of time tracking down info so I hope this helps people a bit
1986 325es motronic 1.3 and I head and entire top end swap on flat pistons. Recommendations: hell yea.
I parts.
Head,intake manifold,throttle body,icv, elbow boot, vacuum hose (valve cover), dual hoses into booster, afm, valve cover, plug6 from distributor cap, harmonic balancer, Cps and cps mount(oddly enough the holes to mount it into the block are on the eta block at least they were on my 4/86 eta) oil level sensor, oil pressure sensor, harness, 525ecu, upper timing belt cover, I cluster with proper coding chip, I tstat housing.
E parts
Everything else

-When going from smooth to toothed harmonic balancer your alternator belt will not fit. 10x965 is too long get 10x950 at any parts store. It fit perfectly.
-Pay attention to how many prongs are on your starter. I have 2 studs and 2 spade connectors. Red goes on the right most with thick black battery connector. I put green in top and yellow on bottom. No issues yet.
-O2 sensor, I used the 3 wire one that I had stock spliced it into a 1.3 female connector I grabbed from junkyard. Using e exhaust the I connector/o2 sensor will not reach without extending anyway. Look inside connector and find #1 mate that with #2 on the female connector. #2 with #3 and #3 with #4 respectively. Connector #1 on female end (grey wire) I didn't hook up, no issues yet.
-to get tach and econometer working use small connector in glove box (c104) and the harness into ecu, attach the black wire in harness to the Black wire on c104 and the black/white (not black/grey!) Of harness to Yellow/white of c104.
-Distributor caps are the same except plug 6 has a wire you need to hook into wire harness under diagnosis plug. I forgot the real name.
-oil level sensor and oil pressure sensors are both different from motronic 1.0 and require you to switch sensors or splice wires and make due. Grab the sensor from junkyard car if your on a budget.
- brake booster vacuum hose will fit into I elbow just needs to be shortened.
- the valve cover vacuum hose is different if your using all I parts (your e hose will not transfer)
- use zip tie to hold the spring compressed on "bitch tube"
- Make sure to either switch your cluster to an I cluster. I made mistake if getting a 318i cluster and RPMs are off.
- look for 2.7i specific chips
-replace water pump and timing belt while your at it
-im still using a 2.93lsd and flat top pistons and the swap is significantly faster than the eta. Don't let everyone with an I tell you "compression will be wayyy too low" they are just regurgitating the same bs they read in here. Hope this helps people

Edit.
- e and I tstat housings are exactly the same except the I has less sensors. The locations are there but just not drilled. Therefore all your radiator hoses will fit. I blocked off the throttle body coolant lines at tstat housing. No issues yet.
- double check your grounds!
- my ecu 525 on fit with the front holes of ecu mounted to the back holes of bracket IOT close glove box.
- check your coding plug on clusters. Light blue is 4 cylinder. White is 6. I believe you want BMW 17.
- a/c, power steering, timing belts from E will work. Not alternator belt as stated earlier.
- make sure to reattach lower radiator hose holder to prevent hose from hitting p/s its a close fit.
- had some starter issues and removed top spade connector and now it works no issue.
- upgrading to m30 AFM (027) while your doing the swap isnt too bad an idea
- make sure that TPS sensor is set properly so that when throttle body is opened slightly it should lightly click
- drill small hole at the bottom of throttle position sensor right at the bottom of the S on Bosch to allow oil to drain
- spray TPS and ICV with carb cleaner to clear it of oil and gunk, ICV should move freely, let TPS dry before installing.
- if you are running a CAI purchase a AFM to MAF conversion plate from ebay for like 8$ and use small nuts w/o washers in order to fit on studs
- to fit M30 AFM just boil some water and dip your boot in and work it around the edges of the AFM, i test fitted an E boot so an I should be easy
- it seemed like this was obvious but someone asked so....yes you can still use the same transmission...

update:dec 26, 2014
- put a 3.73lsd in a few months back and it is a whole different animal. highly recommend 3.73 or 4.10
- make sure when your doing the timing belt, you spend the extra 6$ and get the timing belt spring and guide pin for peace of mind

Will add more if I remember them.

[Swanny]

Great additions! Been worried about modifying an 89 harness so I just bought an 87 so i wouldn't need to worry about the c104 mess. Might play around with it now just so I get the removable injector harness.

[fresh_TD]

bump on this.. question.. can I just drop in an I head on a eta block and just roll like that with no issues...or is there more I need for this? TIA

[squidmaster]

bump on this.. question.. can I just drop in an I head on a eta block and just roll like that with no issues...or is there more I need for this? TIA

Depends on your engine
the first post has all the info you need:

1982-1986 325,e,es
Notes For 1982-1985: Use this diagram to connect 1.1/1.3 Motronic harness to body harness. http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...85318iC101.jpg

Parts Needed:
i intake manifold, i throttle body, i injectors, i AFM(air fuel module), i FPR(fuel pressure regulator 3.0bar), all i pulleys(fan, water pump, crankshaft), i belts, i thermostat housing, i 173ecu(computer in glove box), all 1.1/1.3 Motronic harness and sensors, spark plug wires

Optional Parts:
i double valve springs, i valve cover, i duel exhaust, i radiator and expansion tank, i single fuel pump fuel tank and fuel lines, i flywheel, i transmission with drive-shaft(Must use original center support bearing), i differential(4.10 from ix), i brake booster, i 90amp alternator

1987 325,e,es
Note: In 1987 some e30 are equip with 1.1 Motronic sensors and harness and have the i pulleys and thermostat housing.

Parts Needed:
i intake manifold, i throttle body, i injectors, i AFM(air fuel module), i FPR(fuel pressure regulator 3.0bar), all i pulleys(fan, water pump, crankshaft), i belts, i thermostat housing, i 173ecu(computer in glove box), all 1.1/1.3 Motronic harness and sensors, spark plug wires

Optional Parts:
i double valve springs, i valve cover, i duel exhaust, i radiator and expansion tank, i single fuel pump fuel tank and fuel lines, i flywheel, i transmission with drive-shaft(Must use original center support bearing), i differential(4.10 from ix), i brake booster, i 90amp alternator[u]

1988 super eta, seta

Parts Needed:
i intake manifold, i 173ecu(computer in glove box)

Optional Parts:
i cam, i double valve springs, i duel exhaust, i radiator and expansion tank, i single fuel pump fuel tank and fuel lines, i flywheel, i transmission with drive-shaft(Must use original center support bearing), i differential(4.10 from ix), i brake booster, i 90amp alternator[u]

[crazyman]

bump on this.. question.. can I just drop in an I head on a eta block and just roll like that with no issues...or is there more I need for this? TIA

You can, putting an I head on eta bottom end with flat top pistons will lower compression. A little longer cranking times is about it. To take take full advantage of the I swap get 2.7i specific chips.

[Regnar75]

im not too sure if dropping the head on the eta bottom will work without the other components, i guess the only real thing is if your using 1.0 harness then stick to 100% 1.0 harness, like if you wanted to upgrade to I injectors then you need to upgrade other electronics (86% sure, unless someone knows otherwise)

david- the tach needs to be wired up through the c101 in the glove box (if you have early model) also the eco gauge gets wire through there and the obc alarm. check strictlyeta he has a good write up about it.

fresh_td - i recommend doing the full swap including 1.3 electronics injectors and all the other needed components, it really gives you the full benefits and motronic 1.3 has better management. it really doesnt take that long to do and most of it is just swapping the eta parts with I parts, 1 for 1. i did it in the parking lot with just a few hand tools. and all the parts you can just pull from a junkyard car.

[anabolice30]

currently have a 1989 325i and I'm about to buy a 1985 325e. Are all the parts interchangeable? Say I wanna stroker the 325e, but keep my 325i running, can I just trade economy and performance parts? The 325i has the 173 ecu, unsure of the 325e's ecu. Would those be interchangeable?