what can we do to give Mr m20 power

[Sean]

MarkD Chip, Bav Auto CAI, GOOD heatshield of some sort, Exhaust.

All of you who think you're going to get a full rebuild for $1500 are dreaming, plan at LEAST twice that to build a good M20 with new parts. And at that price you might as well add some extra valves and variable cam timing. Boost is another story though, I would happily spend money on an M20 built for boost but for some reason I balk at spending it for an N/A motor.

You could do a rebuild using eta bottom end, super eta pistons and stock I top end for $1500. I spent about $600 on all rebuild pieces and probably $300 for machine work. That's just for the bottom though. My top end is still original, close to 210,000 on it now. If you get new pistons and a different crank - most def. not.

[eugeman]

Everyone says go turbo and it's not that I disagree in terms of raw HP, but if you have to consider tuning, emissions, driveability, fabrication, parts breakage in the turbo system and stock parts, and mpg in the equation as well. I'm going N/A modified stroker.

[James Crivellone]

I honestly dont think the M20 is worth rebuilding, you would be better off swapping to an M5x motor

My 2.8L M20 can destroy a stock M20B25, its fun as fuck...

Ask anybody who has seen mine (or nando's for that matter)

[nefarious7907]

My 2.8L M20 can destroy a stock M20B25, its fun as fuck...

Ask anybody who has seen mine (or nando's for that matter)

You mean M50B25?

[Sean]

You mean M50B25?

It would kill an M20B25 too though. :D

But yea, James ain't lieing. I walked away from my brother's 325is, and that's before I've even messed with any tuning (173 ECU with STOCK I chip and stock AFM - only upgraded injectors). When I get MegaSquirt dialed in, I should easily gain 5 hp, maybe more.

[nando]

sean - I highly reccomend you get a baseline on your engine before you switch to MS. preferrably on a mustang or dyno dynamics (a real load brake dyno). not for the ultimate HP numbers (which aren't all that important), but so you'll know what you really gained between them. Then, when you go back with MS you can fine-tune the timing and AFR curves on a load brake dyno.

I got a baseline but I made the mistake of doing it on a dynojet - it was still helpful, but since it's not a load brake dyno all I can really tune is WOT, although the guys at the place I went to were pretty clueless on how to tune it anyway. of course I still gained 10-15hp/tq (at the wheels) over my baseline, with the biggest increases in the top end from 6000-6500. :)

[Sean]

sean - I highly reccomend you get a baseline on your engine before you switch to MS. preferrably on a mustang or dyno dynamics (a real load brake dyno). not for the ultimate HP numbers (which aren't all that important), but so you'll know what you really gained between them. Then, when you go back with MS you can fine-tune the timing and AFR curves on a load brake dyno.

I got a baseline but I made the mistake of doing it on a dynojet - it was still helpful, but since it's not a load brake dyno all I can really tune is WOT, although the guys at the place I went to were pretty clueless on how to tune it anyway. of course I still gained 10-15hp/tq (at the wheels) over my baseline, with the biggest increases in the top end from 6000-6500. :)

Actually, instead of going to the dyno more than once, I got a Gtech pro Meter, pretty much the equiv of the Gtech pro RR for around $100 on ebay. I'm going to find a nice stretch of road, fill up my car with gas (like completely full) and do a run. Then after I get MS dialed in, I'll do the exact same thing - and hopefully it will give me a comparison. :)

Is the only way to really tune the midrange, and not WOT, on a dyno, that is, for the ignition anyway?

[nando]

yeah, you can't really do anything but WOT on the street. you can do some VE table tuning but it takes a lot of time and patience.

too bad you paid $100 for the g-tech, a baseline may have been cheaper :p

[Sean]

yeah, you can't really do anything but WOT on the street. you can do some VE table tuning but it takes a lot of time and patience.

too bad you paid $100 for the g-tech, a baseline may have been cheaper :p

Doh..ya. Possibly, but I'm gonna play with it for a bit. I really don't know what the dynos are like in Boise. I can resell it for the same price too. lol

[digger]

yeah, you can't really do anything but WOT on the street. you can do some VE table tuning but it takes a lot of time and patience.

too bad you paid $100 for the g-tech, a baseline may have been cheaper :p

i have heard of people using the brake as a load at WOT to maintain constant rpm for short intermittent periods. Do it on a big hill and it will take some load of the brakes.

[digger]

sean - I highly reccomend you get a baseline on your engine before you switch to MS. preferrably on a mustang or dyno dynamics (a real load brake dyno). not for the ultimate HP numbers (which aren't all that important), but so you'll know what you really gained between them. Then, when you go back with MS you can fine-tune the timing and AFR curves on a load brake dyno.

I got a baseline but I made the mistake of doing it on a dynojet - it was still helpful, but since it's not a load brake dyno all I can really tune is WOT, although the guys at the place I went to were pretty clueless on how to tune it anyway. of course I still gained 10-15hp/tq (at the wheels) over my baseline, with the biggest increases in the top end from 6000-6500. :)

what does your stroker put out nowadays? Also what are the specs

[z31maniac]

They use the 3.2 M3 crank, but stock it will not drop right in because the ends are different.

Hmm, their site says you have to notch the block for rod clearance, not because the ends are different.

Not saying you are wrong, just curious which is right. Or if you have to do both.

[nando]

you may have to clearance the block and intermediate shaft - the only modification to the crank is a pressed on sleave for the front seal.

[kamotors]

Drive down hill only with your foot on the gas

sadly that doesn't help. i did some 0-60 runs down hill and they were only .3 seconds faster. 4.10's hold you back to much going downhill.

but for more power go get a turbo

[Jon325i]

Lots of good suggestions being tossed around in here - but lets ask one very vital question of the original poster. And that question is.....















































What's your budget?








Jon